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**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Emerson TV,  LC501EM3
Reason for Service: At power on, LED flashes and relay clicks.  This keeps repeating, but set doesn’t come on.
Solution: Touch pad controls were bad; replace to fix the set.

LG TV, 37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Set turns on, then shuts down. Has backlight.
Solution: Found bad cap on power board:  C852, 470uF/10V.

Mits TV,  WD-65738
Reason for Service: Set starts to boot normally, then shuts down with 3-6 error.
Solution: Clean dust from exhaust fans and surrounding area, then check that fans are spinning freely.

Panasonic TV,  TCP50C1
Reason for Service: One blink error
Solution: If there is 5V at pin 9 of connector P25/A25, replace A main board.  If there is no 5V,  check for continuity between pin 9 of Connector P25 and pin 5 of connector P7 on P board.  If not, replace P board.

Polaroid TV, TDA3211C
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Check and replace as necessary: two 10uF, 450V caps and D10 all in the power supply.

Samsung TV, LN22B360C5D
Reason for Service: When trying to turn on set, standby light begins blinking continuously, and set never starts.
Solution: Problem on SMPS/IP board.

Sony TV, KDL-55HX800
Reason for Service: Set comes on, then shuts down.  Has 7 blink error code.
Solution: The code indicates bad HLR board or BAL board. Do this: Disconnect power.  Unplug HLR board and plug set back in and turn on.  Test to see if set now works properly and does not shut down. If so, replace HLR board.  If set does not work properly after this test, replace BAL board.

Toshiba TV, 50H72
Reason for Service:  White screen with lines across
Solution: Found cold solder on black wire that feeds the convergence ICs. Repaired solder, replaced fuse F850 (5A) and both STK392-110 ICs.

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

While some malfunctions are more concerning than others, most of them can be easily fixed with a little guidance. To help get you started, we’ve compiled a list of some of the most common maintenance mistakes and component failures which often lead to a leaky washer.

Maintenance Tips

• Excessive vibrations brought on by an unbalanced washer can cause water to spill out of an appliance as the machine agitates clothing. To determine whether or not a washer is balanced, place a leveler on the main top. If the appliance turns out to be unbalanced, simply correct the problem by adjusting its legs. Some floors though may be too unlevel to solve the issue. If the issue is not addressed, and the washer continues to vibrate uncontrollably, other appliance components may get damaged.
• Leaks located at the back of the washer can indicate a loose hose connection. Before inspecting the hoses, turn off the appliance’s water
  supply, and pull it machine away from the wall. Start investigating the leak by examining the drain hose, which runs from the drain port on the washer to the standpipe or laundry tub. If either side of the hose feels loose, correct the issue. Or, if they are both intact, move on to the inlet hoses. The machine’s hot and cold inlet hoses run from the inlet valve on the washer to the hot and cold faucets on the laundry room wall. If one or more of the connections are loose, tighten them to stop the leak.
• Washers are designed to handle a certain amount of detergent. When that amount is continuously surpassed, the soap residue leftover will end up clogging the overflow tube, resulting in puddles on the floor. Stick to the detergent recommendations in the owner’s manual to resolve any type of soap overuse.

                                       GE washer model ​WCSR2080BCC

Appliance Repair Tips

Unplug the appliance and turn off its water supply before starting any repairs. Safety goggles and gloves are needed to protect hands and eyes from sharp objects as you remove and replace damaged components.

The Tub-to-Pump Hose

When the washer tub drains, water travels through the tub-to-pump hose. As an appliance ages, the hose can crack, causing water to leak out. Replacing the damaged tub-to-pump hose is not complicated and should only take a little over an hour.

How to Replace the Tub-to-Pump Hose in Your GE Washer

1. To gain access to the tub-to-pump hose, remove the washer’s front panel. At the left and right corners of the washer, insert a putty knife in between the main top and the front panel. Slide the putty knife toward the center of the appliance. When the knife makes contact with a locking tab, push down to release the mechanism. Once both tabs are disengaged, tip the front panel back, and take it off the washer.
2. The tub-to-pump hose can be found in the washer’s lower right corner. Before disconnecting it, place a towel in the area underneath the component. Use pliers to loosen and slide the lower clamp up the hose. Then, pull the bottom half of the hose off the drain pump. A small amount of water is likely to come out of the hose, which should be caught with the towel. Next, use a nut driver to unthread the screw securing the upper hose clamp. Once the clamp is loose, disconnect the top end of the hose from the outer tub. Now the damaged tub-to-pump hose can be removed from the washing machine.
3. Before discarding the old hose, take the top and bottom clamps off the part so they can be attached to the new drain hose.
4. Slide the old clamps onto the new tub-to-pump hose. With both clamps attached, go to the washer and install the top end of the hose to the outer tub. Secure the connection by tightening the clamp screw with the nut driver. Then, attach the lower end of the hose to the pump. Using pliers, slide the clamp down the hose to secure the link between the drain pump and the hose.
5. To complete the repair, reinstall the washer’s front panel. After the appliance is reassembled, plug it in and turn on its water supply. Test the new tub-to-pump hose by washing a load of laundry. If the washer doesn’t leak, the new component resolved the issue.

The Drain Pump

If the washer is leaking during the wash cycle or the drain cycle, there is a good chance it has a faulty drain pump. The drain pump pulls water from the washer tub and pushes it out of the appliance through the outlet hose. If the pump is cracked, water will leak onto the laundry room floor.

How to Replace GE Washer Drain Pump

1. Start repair by taking off the washer’s front panel. In between the appliance’s main top and front panel are two locking tabs: one is near the right corner and the other is near the left corner. To disengage the tabs, slide a putty knife between the panels and press down. After both tabs are released, lift the front panel up and off the washer.
2. Locate the drain pump and place a towel underneath it to catch any water that may come out during the repair. Next, disconnect the wire harnesses running to the drain pump. Then, use pliers to loosen the clamps securing the outlet and inlet drain hoses to the pump, and pull the hoses off the drain pump valves. With a socket wrench, unthread the screws holding the pump’s mounting plate to the bottom of the washer. Once the screws are removed, pull the damaged drain pump out of the appliance.
3. To install the new drain pump, attach its mounting plate to the bottom of the washer. After the drain pump is in place, reconnect the wire harnesses and the outlet and inlet drain hoses. Make sure the hoses are attached properly and the clamps are securely linking the hoses to the pump valves.
4. With the new drain hose successfully connected, reinstall the washer’s front panel. Once the panel is reattached, plug the appliance back in and turn on the water supply. To ensure the repair worked, test out the machine by running a wash cycle.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If both the bottom and top units of a double oven are not working, this should provide a clue as to which component needs to be replaced.

Tools Needed

• Flathead Screwdriver
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Philips Head Screwdriver

Safety First

Unplug the oven from its power supply before beginning any work.

Symptoms

Check for the following to help diagnose the issue:

• The bake and broil heating elements don’t work but test positive for continuity, proving there is a continuous electrical path.
• The power source is delivering 240 volts of alternating current.
• The bake and broil heating element connection wires show no signs of burn marks or damage.
• Testing for continuity, the thermal fuse shows a continuous electrical path is present.
• Check schematic and confirm ohms for the thermostat and heat sensor and test both for the correct amount.

If the power supply, heating elements, thermostat, fuse and heat sensor are operating correctly, it’s a good possibility that the main control board is malfunctioning and will need to be replaced. Since the thermal fuse is functioning properly, this symptom should convey that the control board is getting power but is incapable of operating the oven.

To repair, first remove the door to the lower oven:

• Open lower oven door and find the hinges.
• Release each hinge by pulling back on the hinge locks.
• Position the door until it is about 45 degrees to the floor; lift it off its hinges; and set aside. (Be aware that oven doors are heavy!)

Remove the Cosmetic Molding

• Remove the two bottom screws that hold molding in place.
• Open the top door, locate and remove two more screws that hold the molding.
• Remove the two screws that hold the bottom decorative molding in position.
• Carefully remove all molding and set aside.
  Pro Tip: Keep track of screws by placing in a small jar.

Access the Main Control Board

• Remove the four mounting screws located on the oven frame.
• Pull the oven out slightly, about 3-4 inches, to gain access to the two control board mounting screws: two on the right side and two on the left.
• Open the top oven door and grab the control board on each side. Pull it toward you and then pull up. You now have access to the control board with its menagerie of wire harnesses you will need to remove. However, there are few more steps prior to removing these wires.

Remove the Old Control Board

• Carefully disconnect the ribbon cable that connects the touchpad to the main control board. This is the ribbon that communicates oven control actions to the other components. Be careful not to damage any pins as you remove it. Squeeze inward on the outer edges of the cable and pull the connection away from the board.
• Remove four Philips screws that hold the board in position on the touchpad bracket.  Don’t forget to disconnect the grounding wire.
• Place the touchpad on a flat workable surface.

Install the New Control Board

• Line up the new control board with the screw holes on the touchpad.
• Thread the ribbon cable through a slot located on the control board and gently push the cable into its accompanying tabs.
• Reinstall the four Philips screws that hold the control board to the touchpad frame.
• Although each wire harness is keyed to fit only one connection on the main board, it is wise to snap a picture of the old control board as there are at least two spade connectors that look alike, and you want to make sure they are correctly
  connected.
• Remove the wire harnesses from the old main control board.
• When disconnecting wire harnesses from any component, grip the connector gently and pull. Never remove the connectors by pulling on the wires as this may cause a wire to come loose in the connection.
• The black connectors indicate a tighter fit, and you may need a set of pliers to provide additional leverage to help release the connection.
• After removing all connections, remove the sub control board located on the left end of the old control board. The new control board does not come equipped with one.
• Find the clip that holds the sub control board in place. Depress the clip and pull the board up to remove.
• Now, install the sub-board on the new control board. Depress the clip, slide the board into place and release the clip to secure. That’s all there is to it.

Install Wire Harnesses to New Control Board

• One technique used by technicians is to reconnect the ground wire first to help prevent accidentally dropping the new control board.
• Reconnect the spade connections first. Here is where the picture taken previously should help. You need to ensure that these two connections return to the correct tabs.
• Continue by connecting all other wire harnesses that are keyed to connect in one connection only.
• Another technique is to simply work in reverse of the way you removed the connections.
• Also, it may be possible to use the top oven cover to assist you in balancing the control board.

Replace the New Control Panel

• The control panel has notched openings that slide over tabs located on the front of the oven.
• Once you feel the panel is notched in. push it down and forward slightly and feel it click into place.
• Secure in place with the Philips screws: there is no need to over tighten. Over tightening will sometimes strip or break softer screws.

Final Steps

• Push the oven back in place and secure with four Philips mounting screws. You should use a drill gun on these screws for additional torque. But still, do not over tighten.
• Reinstall the bottom decorative molding.
• Reinstall the frame molding.
• Reinstall the lower oven door. Place the door hinges in the hinge opening. Lift up and open to a 90-degree position. Slide the hinge covers over the hinges.
• Close the door.
• Reconnect the power.
• Test the touchpad functions.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Panasonic TV,  TCL42E3
Reason for Service:  Won’t come on, one blink error code
Solution: LEDs were coming on, but only for a second.  Replaced LED driver board.

Toshiba TV,  50H72
Reason for Service: Dead & F470 blown
Solution:  Replacing C884 and F470 fixed the set.

LG TV,  37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Immediate shutdown after powering on
Solution: IC851 in the power supply was bad.  SM #L6910.

Audiovox TV VE705, 7” LCD
Reason for Service: Dead set, no standby
Solution: Found bad cap in power supply, 1000uF/25V.

Hitachi TV,  60SDX88B
Reason for Service: Black rectangular bar floating up screen on all inputs; audio low and set may shut down.
Solution: Found and replaced open cap, CN06,  10uF/50V.

Westinghouse TV, TX-47F430S
Reason for Service: Set won’t turn on
Solution: Found bad capacitor on main board.  TC51,  470uF/16V

Samsung TV,  PN50A550
Reason for Service: Relays click when set plugged in. After few seconds, power shuts off then back on.
Solution: Replaced C102, 47uF/6.3V.  If still not working, replace DC to DC converter, MP2363DN.

Zenith TV,  9-1998 module
Reason for Service:  There was vertical foldover when brightness and contrast turned up.
Solution: Found and replaced leaky cap,  CX3233,  47uF/160V