Tech Tips

CE Tech Tips — September 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Emerson TV, LC320EM2A
Reason for Service
: Powers on with high pitched squeal
and blinking power light.
Solution: Found shorted diode in power supply. D633, 27V/1W. 

Insignia TV, NS-LCD47HD-09
Reason for Service
: No video, backlights okay.
Solution: Replacing U507 on main board fixed set.
(was running very hot)

Panasonic TV, TH42PZ700U
Reason for Service: Dead, seven blink error.
Solution: On SC module look for row of SM FETs.
Check for shorts by lifting on leg of each. Q641-Q654

Samsung TV, UN55ES6100
Reason for Service: Set won’t connect to Internet.
Solution: Replacing the Wi-Fi module fixed set.

Samsung TV, LN55C750R2F
Reason for Service: Set intermittently had video, then went out all together.
Solution: Before replacing T-Con or main, sub crystal X11 from scrap set.  If no good, replace T-Con.

Samsung TV, PCL542R
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replaced IC801, IC802 and IC806.

 Sharp TV, LC52D64U
Reason for Service: Dead set. F7000 blown.
Solution: Replaced Q7805, Q7808 and fuse to fix set.

 Sony TV, KV40XBR800
Reason for Service: Shuts down with 6 blink error.
Solution: Found and replaced bad cap C6556, 33uF/160V.

 

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!





LG Washing Machine UE Error Code

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When an LG washing machine displays a UE error code, it means the unit’s control board has detected an unbalanced load. This prevents the washer from spinning until the load is either balanced or a faulty component is repaired.

Best case, something simple is causing the problem and can be fix quickly. Below are steps to take to determine whether this will be an easy or more complicated repair. This guidance applies to the following LG models:

RLM20K WD-10271
BD WD-11275
BD WD-13276
BDM WD-90282
BD WM2233
HW WM2277
HS WM2301
HR WM2301
HW WM2455
HG WM2455HW
WM2455HW/00
WM2487HRMA/00
WM2487HWMA/00
WM2496HSM
WM2496HWM/00
WM2688HNM
WM2688HWMA/00
WM3070HWA
WM3470HVA
WM3470HWA

Step One – Try Balancing Load

The first step is to just try balancing the washer load or evening out the weight of the laundry. See if there are tangled sheets or other large and heavy items that may be shifted to one side or the other. If it’s a small load, try adding more items to help better distribute weight. After trying to rebalance, start the washer again to see if the error code has disappeared.

Step Two – Check Washer Legs

Next, check the washer’s leveling legs. The easiest way to determine if the washer is sitting level is to use a bubble level device. Place the device on top of the washer; if it’s not level, adjust the legs appropriately. This can usually be done by rotating the legs without having to lift the washer. Also check to ensure the legs are firmly on the ground with nothing beneath them. Once the legs are adjusted, check again to see if the error code is still showing.

Step Three – Reset Washer

If the previous steps don’t help, try resetting the washer to see if the error code disappears. Just turn off the power to the washing machine for a couple of minutes and then turn it back on again. If the error code is still displayed, move on to step four.

Step Four – Check Rotor Mounting Nut

If the basic fixes haven’t worked, it’s time to check some of the washer’s internal components to see if they are faulty. When dealing with the guts of a washing machine, it’s best to enlist an experienced appliance repair professional due to the inherent risk.

First, check the rotor mounting nut, which helps secure the rotor assembly over the stator. Here’s how to check this component:

  1. Turn off power to washing machine.
  2. Remove side panels to access stator assembly.
  3. Locate stator assembly (check service manual, if necessary).
  4. Ensure nut is tightly secured and adjust if not.
  5. While checking mounting nut, check mounting bolts securing stator and tighten if needed.
  6. Turn power on and see if problem has been solved; if not, proceed to next step.

Step Five – Check Suspension Rods

If the unit is top loading, check the suspension rods; continue to the next step if the unit is front loading.

Suspension rods can wear out, causing a washing machine to vibrate and make loud noises. Over time, this can lead to unbalancing and the UE error code.

Here’s how to check the suspension rods:

  1. Ensure power is off.
  2. Remove washer panels to access suspension rods.
  3. Locate rods (consult service manual if necessary).
  4. Once located, check rods for any signs of wear and tear or any type of faultiness.
  5. If rods are faulty, replace them and check error code again. If still displaying, move to next step.

Step Six – Check Shock Absorbers

If the washer is front loading, check the shock absorbers. Like suspension rods, they can sometimes wear out, causing vibration, loud noises and/or unbalancing, which triggers the UE error code.

Here’s how to check shock absorbers:

  1. Turn off power.
  2. Remove washer panels to access shock absorbers.
  3. Locate shock absorbers (consult service manual if necessary). The washer may need to be placed on its side for easier access.
  4. Once located, check shock absorbers for any signs of wear and tear or faultiness.
  5. If they are faulty, replace them and check error code again. If still displaying, go to next step.

Step Seven – Check Hall Sensor

Try checking the hall sensor (sometimes called a rotor position sensor), which monitors the motor operation. When the motor becomes defective, it can trigger incorrect error codes to be displayed.

Here’s how to check the hall sensor:

  1. Turn off power to washer and remove side panels.
  2. Locate the hall sensor (check service manual if necessary).
  3. Once located, use multimeter to test sensor for continuity.
  4. If continuity exists, it is working so move to step eight. If no continuity, sensor must be replaced. Once replaced, check error code.

Step Eight – Replace Control Board

If the error code still displays after trying all previous steps, the final option is to replace the control board. Control boards are difficult to test to find the specific fault, so it’s best to just replace it to see if the problem is resolved. However, this can be an expensive repair, so it might be more economical to buy a new washing machine.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.

CE Tech Tips — August 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

LG TV, 50PJ350-UB
Reason for Service
: Set starts for a second then shuts off.
Solution: Check/Replace R927 & R929, both 22 ohm/5W.

LG TV, 50PC1DR
Reason for Service: Dead set, 2 blink error.
Solution: Found Q855 in power supply shorted. SD20N60.

Panasonic TV, TH58PX600U
Reason for Service: Dead set,10 blink error.
Solution: Replacing PA board fixed set. 

Samsung TV, PN51D550C1
Reason for Service: Six blink code when set plugged in,
but will not turn on.
Solution: Found bad Y main, then found shorted C5020
on Y main.  Replaced C5020.

 

 

Samsung TV, UN55FH6030FXZA
Reason for Service: Backlight flickers. Cleaned cable ends, no improvement.
Solution: Replacing power supply fixed set.

Sharp TV, LC-60LE600U
Reason for Service: Set will turn on with no picture, sound or backlights.
Solution: First check for bad solder to LED strips.

Vizio TV, VO47L FHDTV10A
Reason for Service: No backlights, audio okay.
Solution: Replaced following: C241, 470uF/35V in power supply, C2 & C3 both 680uF/35V on master inverter board plus 10A fuse F1, and C102 & C103, both 680uF/35V on slave inverter board.

Vizio TV, E401i-A2
Reason for Service
: No backlights.
Solution: Replacing LED driver board fixed set.

 

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!





CE Tech Tips — July 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hisense TV, 50K360G
Reason for Service: Has audio and backlight, but no picture.
Solution: Replaced T-Con. 

LG TV, 32LX1D
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Replacing C127 and C127 restored normal operation.

Panasonic Combo, PVDM2791
Reason for Service: No vertical
Solution: Replaced the following: U451, LA7331, C401, 2.2uF/50V, C402, 470uF/16V, C408, 1uF/50V, and C409, 100uF/35V.

Samsung plasma, HP-R4252
Reason for Service: Picture has red dotted horizontal lines
over 3/4 of the screen.
Solution: Replacing both lower and upper buffers fixed the set.

 

Sony TV, KDL55EX710
Reason for Service: Set shuts down a couple of hours after turning on. 7 blink error.
Solution: Ensure set has good ventilation; might have to replace BAL board.

Vizio TV, E370VLE
Reason for Service: Set won’t start. Logo changes from amber to white, but no B/L, no sound.
Solution: Found D120 on power board was shorted. Used MUR460.

 Vizio TV, M470NV
Reason for Service: Unit powers on, logo goes white then back to amber and set never starts.
Solution: Reflowing U9 on main board fixed the set. 

Westinghouse TV, DW37H1G1
Reason for Service: Set just keeps cycling the colors and will not turn off.
Solution: Unplug set, hold MENU button down while plugging set back in.

 

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!





Whirlpool Dishwasher Pump Replacement

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When a dishwasher won’t clean dishes, one of the first likely causes is the pump outlet. This part connects the main water supply tube to the pump and spray arms. If it cracks, water pressure decreases and will not properly shoot out of the spray arms to effectively wash food particles away. Here’s how to fix a Whirlpool dishwasher in just a few minutes with replacement part 8194582.

1. Unplug appliance. Even though this repair doesn’t involve electrical components, unplugging or flipping the circuit
breaker to major appliances (especially major appliances with water) better ensures your safety.
2. Access spray arms. Open the dishwasher door and remove lower rack. Unscrew spray arm central piece and fully remove, along with arms and bearings. One metal bearing is in the spray arm apparatus, and the other is below resting on the pump outlet.
3. Remove pump outlet. There are eight screws holding the pump outlet in place below the spray arm apparatus. Use a
screwdriver to remove the screws. Set them aside for later use since the replacement parts do not come with replacement screws. Disconnect from supply tube. Remove the old pump seal with flathead screwdriver.
4. Install replacement part. Put seal in housing and connect pump outlet to water supply tube. Make sure outlet is aligned with holes and screw into position.
5. Put the dishwasher back together. Reinstall bearings and spray arm apparatus. Make sure it spins with friction or tension.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.

CE Tech Tips — June 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, L32A403
Reason for Service: Set comes on, works okay for an hour then panel shuts
off; sound and other functions work. Turning the TV off, then back on,
set works again for an hour then repeats.
Solution: Replacing inverter board assembly fixed the set. 

Hitachi TV, 57F59A
Reason for Service
: No video or weak video. No voltage on the
ABL pin of the fly.
Solution: Replaced open RH28. 

Hitachi TV, 57F59A
Reason for Service: HDMI issues, changes colors, snowy picture,
loss of one or more colors, all white, shuts down.
Solution: Replace Signal Board and make sure software
Hitversion is V201 or higher. 

LG TV, 60LS5750
Reason for Service: After set is on for a few minutes, screen has
many red vertical lines, then picture turns off, but audio remains.
Fix: Replacing T-Con fixed the set.

 

Panasonic TV, TC-32LX85
Reason for Service
: No power.
Solution: Found bad photo opto in power supply. PC7000.

Samsung TV, UN40F5500
Reason for Service:
Dead, 2 blink error code.
Solution: Found SM RS802 that feeds the opto was open. Replacing fixed the set. 10 ohm. 

Sony TV, KDL-40V4100
Reason for Service: No video.
Solution: No 12V to T-Con. Replaced U21, (AS15F) on T-Con and replaced F1422/1421 on BU Board.

Sony TV, KV40XBR800
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replacing relay RY6502 fixed the set.

 

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!





Diagnosing and Repairing Electrolux Dryer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When dealing with an Electrolux dryer that is not heating and drying clothes, there are several areas to check for issues and possibly make repairs.

Check Thermal Fuse

The first component to check is the thermal fuse, which prevents the dryer from overheating. To check the thermal fuse and replace it if necessary, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off dryer at wall and remove plug.
  2. Locate the thermal fuse – it should be on the blower housing or by the dryer’s heat source (the burner for a gas dryer or the heating element for electric dryers).
  3. Then, use multimeter to check fuse for continuity.
  4. If it has continuity, it hasn’t blown, so check the next component. If there is no continuity, replace the fuse.
  5. Once the fuse has been replaced, check exhaust vent to ensure it’s not blocked, which is usually what causes the fuse to blow.

Test Igniter

The second component to check is the igniter, which ignites gas to power gas dryers. When it fails, the dryer cannot operate correctly. To check the igniter:

  1. Turn dryer off and remove plug (or turn off at the mains).
  2. Locate igniter and test for continuity with a multimeter.
  3. If the igniter has continuity, check the next component. If it doesn’t have continuity, it is defective and will need to be replaced.

Check Flame Sensor

After inspecting the thermal fuse and igniter, check the flame sensor, which detects heat from the flame. When the sensor is faulty, the dryer will not heat. To check:

  1. Make sure dryer is still turned off, then locate flame sensor.
  2. Use a multimeter to test the sensor for continuity.
  3. If it does not have continuity, it must be replaced.

Check Gas Valve Solenoid

For a gas-powered dryer, the next component to check is the gas valve solenoid, which enables gas to flow into the burner assembly via gas valve ports. When the valves fail, the dryer can’t heat. To check the gas valve solenoid:

  1. Turn dryer off at the wall and remove plug.
  2. The best way to check if a gas valve solenoid has failed is to check the igniter. Locate the igniter to see if it glows and then ignites gas.
  3. If it fails, replace all of the gas valve solenoids. If the igniter ignites the gas, then the gas valve solenoids are working correctly and not the source of the problem.

Test Heating Element

Another possible cause of an Electrolux dryer failing to heat is if the heating element is faulty. This will prevent the air that circulates the dryer from heating. To check the element:

  1. Turn dryer off at the wall.
  2. Find the element, and then use a multimeter to test it for continuity.
  3. If it doesn’t have continuity, it’s burned out and needs to be replaced.

Test Incoming Power

A problem with incoming power is another common reason for dryers to stop heating. To check the power:

  1. Check fuse box to see if the fuses have blown or circuit breakers tripped. They will need to be fixed if so.
  2. If they are correctly working, check the voltage by using a multimeter. Electric Electrolux dryers require two legs of 120 volts AC (for a total of 250 volts) to operate correctly.
  3. If there is a problem with the voltage, it will need to be repaired.

Test High-Limit and Cycling Thermostats

These two thermostats help monitor and regulate the dryer temperature while it’s running through a cycle. When they are defective, they can stop the dryer from heating correctly. However, they are not a common cause of issues, so only check them once you have tried all of the other components previously outlined.

To check the high-limit thermostat and the cycling thermostat:

  1. Make sure the dryer is turned off.
  2. Locate the thermostats (they are two separate components).
  3. Use a multimeter to check for continuity.
  4. If they both have continuity, they are not the cause of the problem. Otherwise, they will need to be replaced.

Test Timer

If every other component above is working, check the dryer’s timer. Like the thermostats, the timer is very rarely the cause of a dryer not heating, but they can be checked if all other components have been ruled out. To check the timer:

  1. Make sure dryer is turned off at the wall.
  2. Locate timer and use a multimeter to check it for continuity.
  3. If it has continuity, it is working correctly and doesn’t need to be replaced. Otherwise, it’s faulty and needs to be replaced.

Check Main Control Board

The final component to check is the main control board. This is again a very uncommon cause of a dryer failing to heat. It is also very difficult to test with the only option to replace it to see if it fixes the issue.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — May 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Dynex TV, DX40L150A11
Reason for Service: Backlights come on briefly, then screen goes black.
Solution: Replacing inverter module restored normal operation. 

Emerson TV, LC-320EM2A
Reason for Service
: When pushing power button, there is a high pitch
squeal and blinking blue power light.
Solution: Replaced shorted D633 in power supply. 27V/1W. 

LG TV, 47LH40UA AUSVVLHR
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found bad Opto in power supply, PC502; replacing it fixed the set. 

LG TV, 50PA4500
Reason for Service: Power button or remote will not turn set on.
Solution: Found bad cap in power supply, C802. Replacing it fixed the set. 0.022mF/1600V

 

Samsung TV, LN32B360C5d
Reason for Service: Set turns on one time at plug in, then won’t turn on again unless it is unplugged first.
Solution: Repairing bad tab on power supply board used for CCFL tubes fixed set. 

Sony TV, KDL40Z4100
Reason for Service: Dead, no standby.
Solution: On power supply board found shorted IC6101 and an open R6127, 10 ohm/Fusible.

Sony TV, KDL40V4100
Reason for Service
: Dead set, no standby.
Solution: Replacing Fusible resistor R6200, (10 ohm/half W) and IC6200 restored normal operation.

Vizio TV, M420NV
Reason for Service
: Set had no video, but sound was okay.
Solution: Installing eeprom kit fixed the set.

 

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!





Fixing Whirlpool Top Load Washer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If Whirlpool top loading washer model WTW4850HW or WTW4955HW stops working, there are a handful of reasons for a malfunction. This tech tip covers troubleshooting for when the unit appears to be dead — there is no noise when trying to start a load and nothing happens. Possible causes of the problem include:

  • Not plugged in securely
  • Current not reaching the outlet
  • Water supply valve not turned on properly
  • Filter screens filled with debris
  • Door lock switch not functioning
  • Washer motor not working

Check Plug

The easiest fix is to make sure the unit’s electrical cord is securely plugged in before starting the washing cycle.

Test Current

Use a voltage tester to ensure the electrical outlet is getting the correct voltage. If it is not receiving voltage, ensure that it is not controlled by a switch that may be accidentally turned off.  Other possible reasons that an outlet may not receive voltage are that the fuse has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped. Try resetting the circuit breaker to see if this fixes the problem. Another issue could be a ground fault circuit interrupt, which can cause an outlet to be tripped. (These are commonly found in bathrooms or near water.) Press the reset button to see if this fixes the voltage problem.  If you suspect loose wiring, check the outlet box where wiring typically wears down first.

Check Filter Screens

The water inlet valve for both hot and cold water is located at the back of the washer. The supply hoses should have a filter screen to catch debris from damaging the washer. If it’s clogged, the water pressure may be too low for the unit to properly function.

To check this, unplug the washer from the outlet and then turn off the water supply at the wall. Be sure to have a bucket on hand to catch any water spills. Next, disconnect the two water hoses connected to the rear of the washer and put them into the bucket. It is unlikely that the filter screen is damaged; it likely just needs to be cleared of debris. Clean off any buildup, but be careful not to damage the screens. (If screens are damaged, the entire water valve will need to be replaced.) Connect the water hoses again and check the functionality.

Door Lock

If the door lock is not shut all the way or defective, the unit will not work. The lid lock latch assembly can be replaced with part number W11307244. This is one of the more common reasons these models malfunction, but replacement is very easy.

To replace, unplug the washer and remove the back panel with a screwdriver. Then, detach the wire harness from the door latch assembly and reconnect the new door lock assembly.

Washer Motor

If nothing else works to get the unit working again, the cause could be a bad motor, or it may have just worn out over years of usage.

Replacing a washer motor can be expensive and a little more time consuming than some of the other fixes. Before replacing, be sure to have the correct part number and tools. While not required, a magnetic screw catcher can be helpful when working with appliances to keep them together while performing the repair.

Tools needed:

  • Large set of pliers
  • Electrical tape
  • 5/16th” socket
  • 1/2″ socket
  • Magnetic screw catcher (optional)
  • Towels for any water spillage

Unplug the power cord and shut off the water supply before beginning. Remove the washer away from the wall to easily access. Remove the hot and water supply lines from the inlet valve on the back of the unit using pliers, then twisting by hand. Water will likely spill out.

At the bottom of the washer, remove the drain hose by releasing the hose clamp with the pliers. Use a piece of electrical tape to secure the washer lid, and tip the washer on its back.

Use a socket or nut driver to remove the plastic belt guard, and disconnect the drive motor wire connector and the drive belt. This can be done manually without tools. Be careful not to stretch the belt. This is an ideal time to replace the belt if needed with part #W11239857.

With the ½” socket, remove the mounting screws and the motor. Next, install the new drive motor part #W10832724 by positioning it on the gearcase and tightening the screws to secure. Replace the belt if needed to the belt gears or use the existing one. Twist the larger gear several times to make sure the belt is lined up. The motor should be moving simultaneously.

Replace all other components that were removed. Connect the wire connector, and put the belt guard back on with the screws. Once the washer is upright, attach each of the three hoses on the back, making sure to connect the hot and cold water correctly. Turn on the water and plug in the washer and it should be good to go.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

How to Test Fridge Bulb

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Wondering if that refrigerator LED is faulty? Just check it using a couple of pieces of scrap wire and an old battery.

In this example, a nine-volt battery that will no longer power a multimeter is being used. The battery is still putting out about 4.5 volts DC, which is ideal for testing refrigerator LEDs.

Take two small wires and strip them on each end — one end should be stripped at about half the length of the other. Using the short end, insert each wire into the connector for the LED.

With the wires inserted, hold them in place and touch the positive terminal to the battery to one wire and the negative to the other. Below is a link to a video showing the testing process step by step. If the LED lights up, it’s good and the issue is likely to be the door switch or LED driver.

WATCH HOW TO VIDEO

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!