Tech Tips

Fixing Problems with Hotpoint Freezers

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

To the non-technical person, freezers seem like complicated units capable of doing something quite extraordinary – lowering temperatures below that of the surrounding. Happily, though, they work on elementary principles. Hotpoint freezer repair usually involves replacing broken or defective parts or doing simple troubleshooting.

This guide will cover the following Hotpoint freezer models and related products from the brand:

HQ9 B1L

HQ9 E1L

H9T 921T KS H

H7T 911T KS H

H7T 911T MX H

H7T 911A KS H AQUA

H7T 911A MX H AQUA

H5T 811I MX H

LAL85 FF1I W WTD.1

HM 7030 E C AA O3.1

DC 85 N1 G

DC 85 N1 W

H3T 811I OX

H3T 811I W

H8 A1E SB UK.1

H8 A1E W UK.1

H8 A1E SB WTD UK.1

FFU4D.1 K

 

Common Reasons for Hotpoint Freezer to Stop Working Properly

Freezers can stop freezing (or generate readouts that make it appear as though they’ve stopped working), for many reasons, including:

  • Dirty condenser coils
  • Frosted over coils
  • Main control board malfunction
  • Defective temperature control thermostat
  • Faulty user control board
  • Defective compressor unit
  • Sealed system leak
  • Start relay problems
  • Evaporator motor fan issues

Dirty Condenser Coils

Hotpoint makes freezers with both external and internal condenser coils. The interior models shouldn’t require regular cleaning since the shroud of the unit prevents accumulation of dirt and grime. However, exterior types often collect dust, lowering their capacity to dissipate heat and reduce interior temperatures. If freezer coils look dirty, unplug the unit and wipe off any dust with a duster or cloth. If they feel sticky or greasy, use a damp sponge with a decreaser to remove scum.

Frosted Over Evaporator Coils

Sometimes freezer evaporator coils can frost over. This usually occurs when there is a problem with the defroster heater – a device that prevents buildup of frozen water on the surface of coils.

coming soonHook the defroster heater up to a multimeter and check for continuity. The current flow through the unit should be continuous while the freezer unit is switched on. Lack of continuity could indicate problems with electrical connections, fuses, switches and wiring elsewhere in the appliance.

If continuity is an issue, the entire defrost heater unit may need to be replaced.

Main Control Board Malfunction

Main control boards on Hotpoint freezers provide all circuitry required to adjust temperatures and settings. The brand supplies an extensive range of different boards, depending on model.

Mainboard issues can cause a freezer to stop freezing, but such problems are uncommon. If other potential issues have been ruled out, try replacing the mainboard to see if it fixes the problem.

Defective Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat measures temperature inside the freezer to change voltage supplied to the condenser fan motor, evaporator fan motor and compressor. When thermostats malfunction, they can’t assess temperatures accurately and send instructions to the components to chill the freezer to the required level.

If a defective thermostat is suspected, turn it from the lowest setting to the highest. On Hotpoint models, you should hear a click as components in the rest of the appliance kick into action.

If you don’t hear any sound or see the machine responding, take a multimeter and test the thermostat for continuity. If the thermostat doesn’t have continuity, it should be replaced.

Defective Compressor Unit

Compressors are just pumps that circulate refrigerant through the condenser and evaporator coils. When they stop working, heat exchange comes to a halt, and freezers can’t cool down.

Compressors can fail on modern Hotpoint machines, though this is rare. Often, other defective parts are causing the issue. Before replacing or repairing the compressor, check other components such as the evaporator and condenser coils and evaporator fan motor.

If those components appear to be working well, then test the compressor itself by attaching a multimeter to the electrical connector pins on either side. If you detect an open circuit, then the compressor is probably defective and should be replaced. (Please note that only licensed technicians should replace compressors.)

Sealed System Leak

If the unit freezes on the top shelf but nowhere else, there may be a sealed system leak. Replacing a sealed system usually costs more than the freezer unit itself, making repair cost-prohibitive.

Start Relay Problems

The freezer start relay is a device that switches the compressor on and off. When it doesn’t work correctly, it doesn’t supply energy to the compressor in sufficient quantities or at the right time. If the compressor doesn’t work, the freezer won’t cool at all.

If an issue with the start relay is suspected, unplug the freezer from the mains and detach it from the compressor. As with other electrical components described above, use a multimeter to test for continuity between both terminals on the relay. Also, smell the unit; if there’s a burning odor, it needs to be replaced.

Problems With Evaporator Motor Fan

Evaporator motor fans are critical for heat exchange, which makes refrigeration possible. Fans circulate air through the coils in the freezer, removing excess heat.

Most Hotpoint models disengage the evaporator motor fan when the door is opened. If there’s a problem with the fan, try pressing the freezer door microswitch that operates the fan and keep the door open. The freezer should detect a rise in temperature and prompt the fan to start spinning. If it doesn’t respond, you may need to replace it.

Please note that readouts on the user display board may not be accurate if sensors or internal circuits have failed.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — September 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 60SX2K
Reason for Service: Red convergence no good, can’t adjust.
Fix: Replaced IC-1301 and checked R1303, R1304, R1313, R1314.

LG TV, 32LC70
Reason for Service: Turns on and off intermittently.
Solution: Replacing cable from power supply to the main fixed set. EAD60958303

LG TV, 32LG3DC
Reason for Service: No picture, sounds works intermittently.
Solution: Replacing Q709 fixed set.

Pioneer TV, PRO506PU and Media Receiver, PROR06U
Reason for Service: Shuts down with 12 blink error on media receiver.
Solution: From Pioneer: Replace MR DTB Assy in media receiver.  #-AWE1305

Samsung TV, UN40C5000QF
Reason for Service: Set won’t start, 6 blink error code.
Solution: Replaced audio IC1202 on main board.

Samsung TV, HPS5073X
Reason for Service: If set is cool, takes longer and longer to turn on – as much as 15 minutes.
Solution: Replaced caps in power supply. CS856, CS846

Sylvania TV, LD320SS1
Reason for Service: While watching set, started flashing colored screens, couldn’t stop even by unplugging. When set started up again, had same problem: Test mode.
Solution: With set on, press left arrow then right arrow on the remote to exit.  Some sets you have to press up arrow then down arrow.





CE Tech Tips –August 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hisense TV, 48H5
Reason for Service: Dead
Solution: Found couple of shorted diodes on power board, replaced whole power board.

Hitachi TV, 53SDX01B
Reason for Service: HV comes up, then set shuts down
Solution: Pin 1 of ip01 was 0 volts because dp14 was leaky. Replacing fixed set.

Magnavox TV, 47MF437B
Reason for Service: At power on, set chirps but will not start.
Solution: Replaced several bulged caps and Z902 and Z904 were defective.  P6KE120A.  Replacing these fixed the set.

Philips TV, 46PFL3908/F7
Reason for Service: Erratic operation
Solution: Bulletin: Check pin 4 of CN3105 on digital main board for 3.3 V with no keys on function board pressed. If voltage less than 3.3V, unplug keyboard from IR board.  If voltage returns to 3.3V, replace function board. If it does not, unplug CN3105.  If voltage returns to 3.3V, replace IR board. If problem continues, replace digital main board.

Samsung TV, LN40A500T1FXZA
Reason for Service: Power cycles with audible screech sound
Solution: Replaced C102.  47uF/6.3V ceramic, surface mount, blue box.

Toshiba TV, 46XV640U
Reason for Service: No video or OSD, but audio and backlights work
Solution: Found bad SM cap on main board,  C606, 22uF/16V.

Westinghouse TV, EW32S5KW
Reason for Service: Cycling red, green, blue, black. Can’t turn set off.
Solution: Set in test mode.  Press Exit on original remote.




Troubleshooting Cooling Issues with GE Refrigerators

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If your GE refrigerator is currently failing to cool food properly, it’s vital that you find a quick solution. This tech tip will help diagnose and fix various temperature problems.

While GE Appliances have a solid reputation for making some of the best refrigerators on the market — many of which can last for up to 20 years — cooling issues are among the most common problems. It’s a serious issue that can impact the shelf life of food and become a health hazard. This tip covers the following GE models:

GNE27JYMFS

GNE27JSMSS

GNE27JMMES

GNE27JGMWW

GNE27JGMBB

GNE25JSKSS

GNE25JMKES

GWE19JMLES

GNE25JGKBB

GWE19JSLSS

GNE25JGKWW

GWE19JGLWW

GWE19JGLBB

While the function of the refrigerator is fairly simplistic, it relies on several parts to consistently maintain the correct temperature. Several signs that a GE fridge isn’t working properly include:

  • Excessive condensation
  • Motor runs hot
  • Fridge making loud sounds
  • Food spoils much quicker than it should
  • Food is room temperature to touch

Following are some of refrigerator components to check as they are leading causes of cooling problems.

Power Supply

A lack of power is the easiest fault to identify, but it is surprisingly easy to ignore unless you tend to open the refrigerator at night. The easiest way to tell whether the refrigerator is receiving power is to open the door – if the light turns on, power is good.

If the power is not on, there are several potential solutions. Try plugging the unit into another socket or use a multimeter to check the current. Alternatively, you may need to change the plug fuse or replace the plug altogether.

Thermostat Dials

The refrigerator thermostat was probably initially set to between 35°F and 37°F. However, it’s very easy to knock the dial without realizing it. The dial for all modern GE models is located inside the fridge compartment, while fridge-freezer units use a dual temperature dial.

For dual temperature dials, the left dial is for the freezer, and the right is for the refrigerator. The dial runs from 1 (the warmest) to 9 (the coolest); switching the dial to 0 will turn off the cooling. Keep in mind it takes 24 hours after installation for the cooling unit to fully reach a new setting.

Faulty Temp Sensor

Setting the thermostat to the desired level won’t achieve much if the fridge’s computer fails to receive the right data. The thermistor, otherwise known as the temperature sensor, is responsible for detecting the temperature and sending the necessary info to the control board.

If the temperature does not seem to cool even after changing the temperature dial, you may need to invest in a new thermistor (part WR55X10025) to correct the issue. When fitting this new part, it’s vital to first disconnect the power supply from the unit. 

Fan Faults

The condenser fan is another key component for managing temperature. It sucks air through the front grille before circulating through condenser coils and over the compressor. One of the simplest troubleshooting steps is to defrost the fridge compartment. This will free up blades that were immobilized by ice. If this does not work, it may be necessary to purchase a new fan motor. The fan is located toward the floor at the back of the unit.

Seals & Level

The magnetic door seals, otherwise known as door gaskets, can also cause major problems by allowing cool air from inside the fridge to escape. Aside from affecting temperature inside the refrigerator, it forces the condenser fan to work even harder, which jacks up utility bills and is a more expensive repair.

Seals can become damaged over time, especially if the door is opened and shut constantly. Also, cold air can escape from fridges not sitting level on the floor. Using a spirit level to check the positioning of the fridge is key, and it needs proper ventilation space too.

Additional Faults

Other common problems that can affect cooling include:  clogged coils, cooling unit out of coolant or frost on the evaporator coils. Issues with the start capacity and start relay can also be at fault.

Problems with the main control board, such as signals to it, can cause a loss or reduction of cooling as well. In some cases, problems with freezer parts like the ice maker can actually impact fridge cooling.

When Troubleshooting Fails

Before trying to troubleshoot potential problems, be aware that modern GE appliances come equipped with a QR code and serial tag (located inside the fridge toward the top corner), which can be scanned to direct you to a troubleshooting page on GE’s website  for the exact model. Depending on the age of your product, it may also still be covered by warranty.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — July 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 60SX2K
Reason for Service: No color
Solution: Replaced leaky 2D-7004.

LG TV, 37LG10-UM
Reason for Service: Picture was washed out.
Solution: Replaced U202 on the T-Con board.  AS15-U.

Onkyo Recriver, TXSV727
Reason for Service: Unit in protect mode
Solution: Replaced Q615, Q621, Q623 and R639, 2.2k ohm.

Panasonic TV, TC50PX24
Reason for Service: Shutdown,10 blink error
Solution: Replaced SS module.

Sanyo TV, DP47460
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Found and replaced bad IC601 on power board. A6051M.

Samsung TV, PN58C6400TFXZA
Reason for Service: Set has audio but no video.
Solution: Replaced Q5006 and Q5008 on main board.

Sony TV, KDL46W4100
Reason for Service: Backlight comes on then shuts off in short time. Error 14 blinks.
Solution: Replaced LCD controller.

Vizio TV, E601i-A3E
Reason for Service: Remote and replacement not working, but front panel buttons work fine.
Solution: Found leaky SM cap off vcc leg of I.R. diode.

 



Troubleshooting Samsung Flexwash

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

Fixing Problems with Samsung FlexWash Washing Machine

Trouble with a Samsung Flexwash washer?  Unfortunately, even the best clothes washers can suffer from faults or wear and tear. Instead of rushing to buy another washing machine, first try troubleshooting to potentially repair the unit and save time, money and hassle.

Depending the problem, you may still require a professional washing machine service. Nevertheless, an accurate diagnosis is the first step to repair. Following are some Samsung FlexWash troubleshooting tips that will hopefully help guide you to the right fix.

Washing Machine Won’t Turn On

When the FlexWash washer won’t even turn on, try these steps:

  • Confirm power outlet is gaining power by plugging something else into it. If the outlet is not producing power, check the home circuit fuse box.
  • Ensure power cord is working by using a multimeter unit. If the cord is dead, it must be replaced.
  • Test the door lock. This is the part that keeps the washer door shut during operation. If it’s not working properly and fails to latch, it will need to be replaced as the washer will not power on unless the door is securely closed.

Screen Shows Error Message

When the Samsung FlexWash onboard computer senses a problem, the machine won’t operate. In some cases, though, the washer is actually functioning properly. Try these steps to confirm an issue:

  • Unplug washer from power outlet for at least 10 minutes.
  • Turn power back on.
  • If it powers on, run test wash without any clothes or detergent.

These measures won’t always clear the two-character error code. However, if the error was caused by a simple mistake like the door not being shut firmly, this can help avoid unnecessary fixes.

Drum Won’t Spin

The FlexWash uses a direct drive motor without belts or gears, which means there are fewer components that can fail. While this does promote greater durability, the Samsung FlexWash can still have drum issues — the bearings may have rusted due to water
damage or there could be a blockage.

If the drum won’t spin, try to manually turn it by hand. If it feels tighter than it should, the added resistance may be due to a blockage. If you can hear something rattle in the drum, it could be a coin or other small item. Remove the back and lid off the machine to find what could be causing the issue. At the same time, check the bearings, which are located around the outer circumference of the drum.

The Door Won’t Open

If the door won’t open, there may be a blockage in the drainage filter. Alternatively, the FlexWash’s pump may have failed and the machine will need to be drained manually before the door can reopen. To do this, remove the drain hose and place it into a bucket or sink,
enabling gravity to drain the water out.

When a manual drain fails to fix the issue, the door lock is the next most likely source of problems. Remove the top part and EZ Drawer Dispenser before releasing the lock from inside. In most cases, a new door lock is required. However, it may be necessary to replace the
entire door, which is why the entire mechanism should be inspected first.

Washer Won’t Fill Correctly

The Samsung FlexWash is designed to handle large loads in minimal time. Achieving this requires a steady intake of water. If the washer isn’t filling up to the desired levels, try the following:

  • Confirm water valves for both hot and cold water are fully opened.
  • Ensure water supply is set to at least 20 psi.

If neither of these steps work, it’s likely time to call a professional technician.

It should be noted that the Samsung FlexWash is equipped with smart technology and is WiFi-enabled. Therefore, the Samsung SmartCare app can often diagnose issues before they are even noticed. Pay attention to the codes supplied and consult the owner’s manual to learn more.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — June 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

LG TV, 47LE5500
Reason for Service: Set seems to start with white LCDs flashing, backlight comes on but no audio or video.
Solution: Replacing main board fixed set.

LG Plasma TV, 60PK750
Reason for Service: Set powers up normally with two clicks when you turn it on, but if you turn it off and back on again, set won’t come on. Red LED blinking.
Solution: Replace cable between main and power board.  EAD60958306

Polaroid TV, FLM323B
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replace all caps in power supply and under heatsinks.

Samsung TV, LN32D430G3DXZA
Reason for Service:  Backlights not coming on, audio okay.
Solution: Power supply had some distressed areas from excessive heat; replaced entire module.  BN44-00438B

Samsung TV, HL67A750A1FXZA
Reason for Service: Set shuts down and 3 LEDs blink in the front.
Solution: Replacing LED driver board fixed set.

Sony TV, KDL55HX729
Reason for Service: Won’t power up, 2 blink error code.
Solution: Check and replace as necessary:  Q6602 & Q6603 on secondary power board and R6540 on main power board.  0.1 ohm/2W

Vizio TV, GV47LFHDTV10A
Reason for Service: At turn on, relay clicks and then clicks again in a few seconds. All yellow LEDs on set front are on, and you can only turn off by unplugging set.
Solution: Check for open 1.5A fuse on main board or check U5.  AMC1117

 

 

 

 


CE Tech Tips — May 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: Raster pulls in on bright scenes.
Solution: Found open connection at T703 and repaired.

JVC TV, LT-42E478
Reason for Service: At power on, Power light comes on
for a few seconds and blinks, but set doesn’t come on.
Must unplug before trying again.
Solution: Found shorted cap on T-Con board. C333, 330pF

 LG TV, 55LM4600
Reason for Service: Backlights on, no video, blue screen.
Solution: Replacing T-Con fixed set.

Samsung TV, HL67A750A1FXZA
Reason for Service : Dead, might be intermittent.
Solution: Found and replaced 8 bad caps in power supply.

 Samsung TV, LN46A500T1FXZA
Reason for Service: Colors wrong, kind of negative looking.
Solution: Replaced T-Con or U7 on T-Con, AS19-H1G. 

Sony TV, KDL-52XBR9
Reason for Service: Picture comes on, then goes off; does this three times before shutting down for good. 10 Blink error code.
Solution: Main board had to be replaced.

Toshiba TV, 57HX93
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found and replaced 2 bad caps on sub power board.

Vizio TV, E461-A1
Reason for Service: No picture, backlight or sound, but LED turns white at turn on.
Solution: Replacing EEPROM fixed the set.

 

 


How to Fix Noisy Dryer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

How to Diagnose and Fix a Noisy GE Dryer

Most dryers make noise when operating, but there’s a distinct difference between normal tumbling sounds and and abnormal sounds indicating a malfunction. Oftentimes, the type of sound a dryer emits can help pinpoint the specific failing part. If it’s a rumbling sound, for example, the blower wheel may be worn and loose whereas a grinding or scraping noise can signal a problem with the dryer glides. Luckily, both parts are fairly easy to replace. [Note: this post refers to GE dryer model DBXR463GBWW, but can be used as a general reference for other dryer models and brands.]

Dryer Repair Safety Tips

  • Before starting the repair, unplug dryer from wall and turn off gas supply.
  • Be sure to wear gloves and eye wear to protect against sharp objects while disassembling and reassembling the dryer.

Blower Wheel

The dryer blower wheel draws hot air into the appliance drum and then flows out the exhaust vent. As it ages, the blower can wear down, and become loose on its shaft. When this happens, a rumbling or thumping noise may be heard near the bottom of the dryer.

Replacing Dryer Blower Wheel

  1. First, remove the screws holding dryer console in place. Then, tilt console forward to disengage locking tabs, and lift part out to rest on back of dryer.
  2. To remove top panel, open dryer door and remove screws securing the front panel to top panel. Next, pull top panel toward you and lift it up and off dryer.
  3. Now remove screws holding front panel to dryer cabinet. Then, tilt front panel forward until you gain access to door switch harness, which is covered by a small metal shield. Move shield out of the way, and disconnect wires running to door switch. With door switch wires detached, lift front panel up and off dryer cabinet.
  4. Once front and top panels are removed, take out dryer drum. Remove top screws holding dryer cabinet to dryer bulkhead. Once  screws are out, reach underneath drum to remove drive belt from idler pulley. Then, use loose drive belt to help guide dryer drum out of dryer cabinet.
  5. With access to damaged blower wheel, remove screws securing thermostat that sits on blower wheel. Place thermostat on floor of dryer without disconnecting any wires.
  6. Next, remove screws holding blower wheel housing to front of dryer bulkhead. Move to back of drive motor and remove screws securing it to dryer floor. Once screws are out, carefully pull drive motor back to remove the blower wheel from its housing.
  7. Detach blower wheel from drive motor by unthreading screw that secures blower wheel clamp to motor shaft. After clamp is disengaged, slide blower wheel of motor shaft and remove back half of  blower wheel clamp.
  8. To start installing new blower wheel, slide back half of blower wheel clamp onto drive motor shaft. Next, slip blower wheel onto shaft and install front clamp to secure part.
  9. Now it’s time to reassemble the dryer. Start by placing blower wheel back into its housing, and then reinstall drive motor to floor of dryer. Once motor is secure, rethread screws that attach blower wheel housing to dryer bulkhead. Finally, place thermostat back on  side of blower wheel, and rethread screw that holds part in place.
  10. Retrieve dryer drum, and carefully guide it back into dryer cabinet. Be sure to line up shaft on back of drum with cut out in back of dryer cabinet.
  11. Once drum is in place, rethread drive belt around idler pulley and motor shaft pulley. Then, reattach screws that secure dryer cabinet to dryer bulkhead.
  12. Line up bottom of the front panel with bottom of dryer cabinet, and then reconnect wire harness that runs to dryer door switch. Once door switch and its wires are rejoined, finish replacing dryer front panel by lifting it up and securing it with screws taken out earlier.
  13. Finish closing up dryer cabinet by reattaching top panel. To keep panel in place, open dryer door and rethread screws that secure it to cabinet.
  14. Flip over dryer console, and line up tabs on bottom of console with slots on top panel. Then, push console back until it clicks into place. Finally, secure console by rethreading screws taken out at the beginning of the repair.

Replacing Outer Drum Slides

The drum slides in the dryer supply the drum with support by providing a smooth surface for it to rotate on. Due to age and years of use, the slides in a dryer can wear down; one of the first symptoms of failing slides is either a grinding or scraping noise. Following are instructions on replacing dryer slides:

  1. Remove screws that secure dryer console to dryer, and then lift console up to free bottom tabs from top panel. Flip console over back of dryer and allow it to safely rest there.
  2. Open dryer drum and remove screws holding top panel to front panel. Then, lift panel off dryer cabinet.
  3. Unthread screws securing front panel to dryer cabinet. Once screws are out, lift panel up and off front of dryer cabinet. There is no need to disconnect door switch wire harness; instead, lean front panel against something sturdy so it doesn’t fall.
  4. Outer drum slides can be found on back of front panel around drum slide bearing. Remove damaged slides by pulling them out of  slots.
  5. Discard old drum slides and install new ones by simply inserting into existing slots.
  6. Reattach front panel to dryer cabinet, securing it with screws previously removed. Reposition top panel and open dryer door to replace screws holding panel in place. Finally, flip over dryer console and reinstall it.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

How to Clean Refrigerator Condenser Coils

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

The modern refrigerator is a marvel of advanced and traditional technology. Developing the ability to keep food cold is one of the most important inventions of all time, so it can be devastating when the fridge stops working.

Sometimes a refrigerator will slowly stop cooling just enough because of dirty condenser coils. Condenser coils are part of the critical systems that maintain appropriate cold temperatures inside the fridge. When a layer of dust and household grime builds up on condenser coils, the system will overheat, preventing it from efficiently cooling the fridge or causing it to stop working.

Fortunately, cleaning condenser coils is not hard if you know what you’re doing and have the right supplies. Here’s a quick guide to cleaning refrigerator condenser coils and safely returning a fridge to tip-top condition.

Be Prepared to Repair

Know Your Condenser
Every refrigerator brand and model is a little different, but condensers for most are located underneath the fridge behind a kick plate cover or grate. To confirm, consult the refrigerator’s owner’s manual or parts guide, which can be easily found online if you no longer have the documentation. (Encompass posts schematics for most refrigerator models on its site.)

Collect Supplies
This is a fairly simple repair that doesn’t require many supplies.  Here is a list of suggested items:

  • Work Gloves
  • Screwdriver
  • Soft Bristle Brush
  • Vacuum with Edging Attachment
  • Shop Towels
  • Heavy Duty Sponge
  • Dish Soap

Getting Started

  1. Unplug Fridge Power Cable
    This is for your own safety; food will be fine for half an hour while the fridge door stays closed. Disconnecting the fridge from power will prevent shock and electrocution while cleaning the coils.
  2. Remove Condenser Cover
    In most cases, the cover will be located along the bottom of the front of the fridge. Check to see if it is screwed in or clipped to determine the tools and approach you will need to pop the cover open and access the condenser coils inside.
  3. Clean Cover
    Over time, it’s natural for the cover to get saturated with grease, spills and floor grime. Be sure to scrub it clean in the sink with soap and water or at least use a damp rag to remove as much build up as possible. At least moderately cleaning the cover is important to maintaining clean condenser coils and promoting healthy airflow through the fridge components.
  4. Straighten Any Bent Fins
    If the condenser coil fans have been knocked significantly out of place, try straightening any bent fan blades. This can noticeably improve performance of the condenser and fridge. However, only bend a piece of the fridge’s inner workings if you are confident about what you’re doing and the fridge is unplugged.

Cleaning the Fridge Condenser Coils

  1. Brush Away Lint
    With a soft-bristled cleaning brush, very gently sweep off the condenser coils to clear away dirt, dust and hair and other grime. The brush should be effective enough, but use a vacuum if necessary.
  2. Vacuum With Soft Brush Attachment
    Start with a soft brush attachment and gently sweep over the coils again, this time with the help of suction. Carefully move the vacuum head back and forth over the coils, paying special attention to crevices and spaces for extra dust to build up. Next, switch to the precision corner attachment. Use this to remove any remaining specs of dust or grime that might be insulating the coils from being kept cool.
  3. Reattach  Cover
    With the coils clean, replace the cover in the same way it was removed.

Testing Results

  1. Plug in Fridge 
    Turn the fridge back on, and let it start cooling. The true test of a working condenser coil is when the fridge stays icy cold over several hours throughout the day, so check back in from time to time.
  2. Use Small Shelf Thermometer
    The best way to identify problems with a fridge’s coolness level is to regularly monitor the temperature with a simple clip-in fridge thermometer. If you notice any changes, you can immediately start troubleshooting before a possible minor problem becomes major.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!