Tech Tips

CE Tech Tips — June 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV,  60SX2K
Reason for Service: Loss of color
Solution: Replaced X-501 and C508.

Philips TV, 42PFL5432/37
Reason for Service: At power on, LED goes from red to green, but set doesn’t come on.  Chirping coming from power supply.
Solution: Replaced usual bad caps, (C951, 52 & 53) and then found two bad diodes.  ZD902 & 904.  Replaced with NTE4970.

RCA TV, L32HD35D
Reason for Service: When turning on, LED changes from red to green and remains green, but no 24V to the inverter.
Solution: Replaced the following on the power board: F3802, Q3804, Q3805 and IC3801.

Samsung TV, LN40B530P7FXZA
Reason for Service:  Backlights blink off and on continuously after set warms up.
Solution:  Replaced the inverter controller IC, UI801.

Samsung TV, PN59D530A3FXZA
Reason for Service: Set shuts down intermittently then comes right back on with no picture but sound okay.
Solution: Found bad solder on QS804 and CS825.  Resoldering fixed the set.

Sanyo TV, DP55360
Reason for Service: Set shuts down in a few seconds.
Solution: Replaced 8 pin regulator on main board, 5806.

Sanyo TV, DP50747
Reason for Service: No picture
Solution: Found bad U8003 regulator on the power supply board.  KIA7815A

Vizio TV, GV47LFHDTV10A
Reason for Service: At turn on, the relay clicks and then clicks again within a few seconds. All the yellow LEDs on set front are on; can’t turn off except by unplugging the set.
Solution: Check for an open 1.5A fuse on the main board, if no, check U5.  AMC1117.

Sony TV, KDL-40V4100
Reason for Service: Picture solarized
Solution: Look for bad AS15 chips on T-Con.

Toshiba TV, XV645U
Reason for Service: Dead set; all fuses okay
Solution: Replacing IC Q880 fixed set.  STRY6456.

Vizio TV, L37HDTV10A
Reason for Service: Set locks up when going to tuner setup on digital input.
Solution: Replaced digital tuner board, #3370-0052-0187.

Replacing Frigidaire Ice Door Center Issue

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

                                Door Center

How to Replace Your Frigidaire Refrigerator’s Ice Door Center When the Chute Won’t Close

When pressing a cup against the switch of a refrigerator ice chute, a lot of parts start moving to open and close the chute. But if the door chute no longer closes properly, the door center may be broken — the part that physically blocks ice from falling out. Use replacement part # 241688501 for a Frigidaire/Electrolux refrigerator, and follow these installation steps:

  1. Unplug Refrigerator.
    During this repair, you will be unplugging wires and disassembling parts. For safety, always unplug the refrigerator before attempting any repairs. This repair also involves disconnecting a water line, so turn off the local water connection to minimize the risk of leaks or spills.
  2. Disassemble Door.
    Open refrigerator door to access freezer door handle. Loosen screws at the top and bottom of  handle without fully detaching. This releases pressure, enabling you to lift door and set it aside. Next, pull off drip tray under the ice and water chutes. Remove three screws below the drip tray. Then, pull whole black frame up and away from freezer door.A wire ribbon attaches the frame to the circuit board, so carefully pull ribbon out of circuit board before setting frame aside. After that, remove the three screws that secure top bracket in place around circuit board. Tilt bracket down so you can access parts inside. Remove the six screws around perimeter of circuit board. Be sure to hold circuit board in place while removing last screw so it doesn’t hit anything as it comes loose. Detach wide white wire harness on back of left side, and let board hang freely. Be sure to set clear protective shield aside so you can attach it later. Pull out water tube from right side. Use needle nose pliers to carefully pry it out of the bracket. The bracket is now free to lay on table or work surface.
  3. Disassemble Bracket Assembly
    First, unplug right-hand wire plug at top of circuit board with red and black wires (not the one on the left). Use flathead screwdriver to pry them free.Next, remove the two screws holding actuator in place. The actuator is the part around the large black circle. Once screws have been removed, press down black circle, or the flapper, so you can wiggle actuator free. The actuator is attached to plugs removed earlier. Carefully push plugs down and free so you can fully separate actuator without stretching wires. After that, press up on underside of flapper to pry door center free. Set aside.
  4. Replace Door Center
    Position new door center over flapper white-side down and orient it so the three tabs are in the middle of each of the three rubber sections. Press it into place by bending the flapper and sliding all tabs under the rubber sections.Once door center is in place, reinstall ice actuator. Hold it approximately in place, and thread red wires behind switches. To install actuator, push flapper closed to rest actuator on top of it. Press down both parts further so you can slide top two hinges into groove. Secure in place with the two screws in the top corner.Manually push down the switch and release it to make sure door center closes and then reopens.Once you know the parts are assembled correctly, plug red wires back into circuit board. The length of the wire goes behind the switches to minimize risk of any pinching or pulling. Carefully push circuit board back into place against the bracket without securing it.
  5. Reassemble Refrigerator.
    Hold bracket against freezer section door. Carefully push water line back into hole at the bottom of the bracket. Use pliers to hold it in place, and then push bracket up around it. If fit is too snug, lightly cover water line in soapy water for lubrication. Once water line is connected, position bracket so it’s flush against the cavity. Make sure wide wire harness to left is pulled to the side so you can plug it in later.Hold the bracket in place and secure it with the three screws.Now, plug in wide wire harness, carefully press circuit board into place, and hold it still as you reattach the six screws around circuit board perimeter. Start with bottom three screws and then add clear protective layer on top of circuit board. Sandwich between board and top three screws to secure it.Bring the frame back over to refrigerator. Before reattaching, press end of ribbon wire harness back into horizontal opening on right side of circuit board (between bottom middle and right screws).Position frame against freezer door with buttons along top. Slide top three hooks into holes in the door and push flush against door. Then, press down until it clicks into place. Secure with three screws along bottom. Slide drip tray in place to cover three screws.Install handle; start by opening refrigerator section door and then position cavities on top and bottom over posts. Tighten screws until they securely grab onto posts. Shut door and plug back in refrigerator. Test ice chute to make sure it dispenses properly.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — May 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 60SX2K
Reason for Service: Loss of color
Solution: Replaced X-501 and C508.

Magnavox 32MF30301B
Reason for Service: Power supply fix
Solution: Replace the following: Q600 & 601, D607, 610 & 640,  R608 & F601.

Panasonic TV, H50PE70U
Reason for Service: Set shuts down when trying to turn on.  Shows 12 blink error code.
Solution: Ohm speakers for a short, unplug it if one is found, then try set again.  Replace shorted speaker.

Philips TV, 40PFL3705D/F7 (Serial # beginning with YA1)
Reason for Service: No picture, but has backlight and audio
Solution: F100 on panel controller board was bad.  Replace with 3.15A SMD.  #PNF10148.

Sanyo TV, DP42647
Reason for Service: Set has black screen, but sound okay
Solution: Found shorted diode on T-Con board: CP4, SR34

Sharp TV, LC-52C6400U
Reason for Service: Dead; error, one long, one short.
Solution: Found bad diode on power board: D7805.  MUR460.

Sony TV, KDL-40V4100
Reason for Service: Picture solarized
Solution: Look for bad AS15 chips on T-Con.

Toshiba TV, XV645U
Reason for Service: Dead set; all fuses okay
Solution: Replacing IC Q880 fixed set.  STRY6456.

Vizio TV, L37HDTV10A
Reason for Service: Set locks up when going to tuner setup on digital input.
Solution: Replaced digital tuner board, #3370-0052-0187.

Accessing and Testing Microwave Door Switches

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

WARNING : Disconnect the microwave from any power source before moving forward.

Microwaves include three switches located behind the control panel: primary, secondary and monitor switch all actuate to keep the microwave from cooking the kitchen while the door is open.

Accessing the Switches

  • Remove the two Phillips screws that hold grill in place on top of microwave. Remove grill and lay aside.
  • Locate and remove the one Phillips screw that holds the control panel in place.
  • Lift up control panel and gently pull toward you. This will provide access to the three switches.
  • Remove all wires from control board. All wires are different from each other and will only fit on the terminal they were designed for.
  • Use needle nose pliers to remove connectors from terminals that can’t be removed by hand. Gently squeeze  connector to release it from the terminal.
  • The last wire to remove is the ground wire, which is connected to the microwave frame. Set control panel aside.
  • Remove  access cover and set aside.

How To Test the Switches

  • Set the multimeter to OHMS to test the three switches.
  • Please note that the primary and secondary switches are tested with the door open. With the door open, place the multimeter leads on the connectors on the primary switch first. When closing the door, the multimeter should produce a beep if the switch is good.
  • Test the secondary switch in the same manner.
  • Test the monitor switch with the door closed. When opening the door, the meter should beep.
  • If appropriate beeps did not sound on any or all three of these switches, replace the switch.

These three switches serve mainly to keep the microwave from operating with the door open. The switches also deliver voltage to the diode and magnetron which heat the microwave. If the switches test positive, this further confirms that magnetron has failed and needs to be replaced.

It’s time to button up the microwave. For most people, this is as far as you may wish to proceed. There is an ever increased chance of suffering a powerful electrical shock from the high voltage capacitor, which retains a residual amount of electricity. It will need to be discharged before the magnetron and high powered diode can be accessed and replaced.

Route the control panel wires back through the appropriate slots in the access cover and reattach the cover to the microwave frame. Reconnect the ground wire first and then reconnect all other wires to their compatible terminals.

Push the control panel back in place and secure with its Phillips screw. With the door open, replace grill cover. Opening the door makes it easier to replace the grill. Secure with its two Phillips screws. Do not over tighten these screws as the grill is made of plastic and it could break or crack.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

CE Tech Tips — April 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: No picture or OSD, but power light comes on.
Solution:  Replaced C603.

LG TV, 47LM4600UC
Reason for Service: Set seems to turn on, but there is no picture, sound or backlight.
Solution: Found shorted diode on the power board.  D607, MUR460.

Mitsubishi TV, WD65732
Reason for Service: At plug in, green front LED flashes continually. Set won’t start.
Solution: Replacing DM board fixed this set.

Panasonic TV, TC-P55GT30
Reason for Service:  Top half of picture was bad. After a short time, set shuts down.
Solution: Check and replace shorted FETs on SC board. Put star washers under screws and tighten well.

Sears TV, 509.14370, (JVC)
Reason for Service: HV comes up, then set shuts down.
Solution: Replacing the following fixed set: LA7832, D541, R541, 1.8 ohm/2W and C424, 100uF/35V.  Check all solder in vertical area for bad joints.

Sony TV, KDL-46EX720
Reason for Service: Set powers up for just a second, then shuts down with a 4 blink error code.
Solution: Set had bad LED driver board.  Replacing it fixed the set.

Toshiba TV, 50H72
Reason for Service: Diagonal lines on white screen.
Solution: Found and replaced two bad 10uF SM caps in HD module.

Zenith TV B27A76 9-2067 module
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found bad cap on unregulated B+ line. CX3407, 300uF/200V.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Replace Whirlpool Refrigerator Water Tank and Filter Head Assembly

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When a leak occurs inside a Whirlpool refrigerator, the water tank and filter head assembly could be at fault. This is the part that connects the water supply line behind the refrigerator to the filter and then to the inlet valve. In an area with hard water, buildup can clog or crack through the tubing. Following are steps to replacing the assembly with part #WP12956202.

1. Unplug refrigerator and turn off water supply
Always be sure to unplug an appliance before starting a repair. Also, because this repair involves replacing part of the water system, turn off the water supply at the local shut-off valve behind the refrigerator. The part being replaced connects directly to the supply line, so disconnect the supply line from the water inlet valve at the base of the refrigerator while you’re behind the appliance.

2. Dismantle refrigerator interior
As the assembly is mostly positioned inside the refrigerator, dismantle some of the inner paneling. To get started, open the doors and remove the right side shelving. (Just pull up to remove the
hooks from the rear brackets and slide them out.)

Next, locate the water filter cover at the top of the refrigerator. Press down the tab to open the covers. Turn the filter counterclockwise and fully remove it. Press the back of the cover panel free of the hinge pin, pull out the whole cover panel and set aside.

Remove the interior access panel in the middle of the right back paneling inside the refrigerator. (This is the panel with the four small holes around the perimeter.) To remove it, insert a flathead screwdriver into each of the holes to depress the locking tabs. For the top two holes, press in toward the opposite hole. For the two lower holes, press the screwdriver down to disengage the tabs. Tilt the panel down and wiggle the bottom free from its mounting tabs and set the panel aside.

Then, remove the upper access panel by inserting the screwdriver into the central hole along the bottom and disengaging the locking tab by pushing it up. Pull the panel out and set aside. The water tank at the back of the refrigerator’s interior is now accessible, as well as the filter head running up the back into the ceiling.

3. Remove old water tank and filter head
The water tank may still contain water. Before removing the old parts, place a towel at the bottom of the refrigerator to catch any leaks.

First, loosen the housing that holds the filter head at the ceiling. Do this by prying open the mounting tabs toward the front of the housing and then rocking the back of the housing free until the housing is supported only by the lines running up to the filter head.

Next, press down the tabs at the top of the blue water inlet valve so you can pull the small tube free from the top. Once it’s free, you can remove the transparent support housing around the tube. Also, pull the water line to the left out of the mounting tabs. Completely separate the housing bracket from around the filter head and set  aside.

Move to the rear of the refrigerator and locate the water inlet tube that was disconnected at the start of the repair. Loosen the screw that holds the tube in place. Push it down and remove the plastic retaining clip from around the tube. Then, remove all the screws holding the lower rear access panel in place. Set the panel aside.

Return to the front of the refrigerator. Start removing the columns of the water tank from the retainer clips. Once they’re all down, carefully pull the water inlet tube into the body of the refrigerator.

4. Install new water tank and filter head
Push inlet tube into the hole at the bottom of the refrigerator. Feed as much of the length through the hole as possible. Next, align the new water tank in the back of the refrigerator so the inlet tube is to the right.

Press the columns of the water tank into the retaining clips until they click and engage. This may have to be done one column at a time to make sure everything fits properly. Return to the rear of the refrigerator. Remove  protective cover at the end of the new inlet tube. Place the old plastic retainer clip on the new tube.

Reattach the rear access panel. Slip the water inlet tube through the bottom cutout and the power cord through the top cutout so nothing gets pinched. Then secure the panel with the screws around the perimeter. Next, attach the water inlet’s retaining clip to the middle of the panel and connect the inlet tube to the water supply line.

Return to the front of the refrigerator. Now install the new filter head attached to the water tank. Take the transport tube support from the old assembly and attach it to the filter head’s inlet tube. Also, attach the filter
housing to the filter head. It should snap into place around the arms at the top of the filter head.

Next, reattach the water tube to the inlet valve. Pry the blue valve slightly forward to make more room. Then, push the tube firmly into the valve. It should go all the way in until reaching the wider portion of the tube. Push  valve back into place.

Fit the longer water line into the groove along the left side of the cavity. Once the tubes are in place, attach the new filter head to the top of the refrigerator. Line up the back of the filter head assembly into the rear of the cavity and then press the cylindrical housing into place. All of the locking tabs should be heard to engage.

5. Reassemble the refrigerator interior.
Start by reattaching the upper inner access panel. Hook the top of the panel over the arms near the filter head assembly. Then, swing the panel until it is flush with the back of the refrigerator. Press firmly into place.

Next, install the lower cover. Slip the bottom of the panel into the groove, and then press the rest of the panel flush with the back of the refrigerator until the locking tabs engage.

Then, install the water filter housing cover: there is a hinge pin on either side of the filter head housing. Slide the matching hole of the hinge at the back of the water filter cover over one arm. Then slightly stretch the other side of the cover to reach around and grab the hinge arm on the other side. Take care not to crack the plastic. Before reattaching the water filter, twist and remove the bypass cap inside the filter head. Twist the water filter into the new filter head clockwise. Then, snap the water filter cover shut. Reinstall the shelves, shut the doors, and
plug in the refrigerator. Be sure to also turn back on the water supply.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — March 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Emerson TV, LC320EM3FA
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Found shorted diode, D633. Replacing fixed set. NTE146A.

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: No pic or onscreen display but power light does come on.
Solution: Found bad C603 and replaced.  

LG TV, 37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Takes several attempts to turn on set
Solution: Found two bad caps, C114, 10uF/50V and C852, 470uF/10V.

Panasonic TV, TC-37LZ85
Reason for Service:  Dead; no standby 5v or 12V
Solution: Found D7006 leaky in power supply. 15V/1W zenner.

Samsung TV, PN51E550D1FXZA
Reason for Service:  Wi-Fi not working.  Set may cycle on and off.
Solution: Replaced Wi-Fi module. BN59-01148B.

Sceptre TV, X322BV
Reason for Service: Picture was flashing
Solution: Cleaned both ends of LVDS cable and applied Deoxit.

Toshiba TV, 55ZV6T50U
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Replaced relay SR80 and R850, 1.2 ohm/5W.

Vizio TV, VX370E
Reason for Service: Picture solarized
Solution: Replaced AS15-F IC on T-con board.

Zenith TV, H24F36DT
Reason for Service: Remote will not work
Solution: Replacing eeprom, IC6001, fixed set.

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Disassemble KitchenAid Double Wall Oven

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

The KitchenAid 30-inch double wall convection oven (model #KODE500ESS) is the focus of these tech tips.
Throughout this article are caution alerts signaling a part may be heavy, fragile or comprise unseen sharp objects.
Before beginning any appliance repair project, please remember to always unplug the unit from its power source or shut off the breakers that control the oven.

How to Remove Oven Door

Oven doors are surprisingly heavy, so be prepared when removing it from its hinges.

  • Open oven door all the way.
  • Rotate both door hinge locks toward the oven, releasing door hinges from oven, so it can be removed.
  • Close door to 45-degree angle; grab each side of door; and pull toward you to remove.
  • Lay oven door with handle side down on protective blanket or other soft surface.

How to Access Broil Element and Oven Sensors

  • Be careful to avoid sharp edges when removing and replacing heating elements and oven sensors.
  • Remove all oven racks to gain clear access to rear of oven.
  • Use ¼ inch nut driver to remove screws from bracket that holds  heating element to rear of oven.
  • Remove two screws that hold upper heat shield in place.
  • Carefully pull heating element away from back of oven and disconnect each wire from connector.
  • Ensure heating element wires are completely connected to  accompanying terminals.
  • Realign broil element and shield by inserting oven sensor through large opening in element bracket.
  • Realign smaller front shield and fasten in place with two screws previously removed.
  • Replace rear bracket screws.
  • With ¼ inch nut driver, remove screws that hold oven sensor bracket in place.
  • Gently pull sensor toward you until you see wire connector. (Avoid allowing wire to slip through rear panel or  double oven will have to be pulled out of  cabinet to correct.)
  • Disconnect wire connector.
  • When installing new sensor, remember to first connect wires to connector.
  • Feed wire through rear panel and secure sensor bracket with screws.
  • After reconnecting element and sensor, replace oven racks.

How to Disassemble Oven Door

One of the main reasons to disassemble the oven door is to replace damaged door hinges.

  • Use Philips screwdriver to remove four screws securing inner door frame to outer door assembly.
  • Remove frame, being mindful of sharp edges.
  • If replacing door hinge, lift window pack from outer door assembly. Remove two screws that secure hinge, as well as middle screws holding window pack bracket.
  • With screws removed, slide out old hinge assembly.
  • Install new door hinge by sliding assembly into outer door frame.
  • Replace screws and tighten.
  • Reassemble door by placing window pack in outer door assembly. Ensure engraved notations are visible.
  • Realign inner door frame on outer door assembly.
  • Replace and tighten four screws on door assembly with shorter screws inserted into frame bottom.
  • Reinstall door by sliding door hinges into designated hinge slots at 45-degree angle.
  • Lower door to fully open position and rotate hinge locks forward.

How to Remove and Replace Damaged Control Panel

  • Remove four screws, two on each side, holding oven frame to cabinet.
  • With help, slide oven about 4 inches out from cabinet.
  • With ¼ inch nut driver, remove two screws, one on each side, to remove control panel mounting brackets.
  • Remove four screws that secure panel assembly.
  • Lift control panel up to remove, being careful of sharp edges.
  • Disconnect  communication wire and ground wire from control panel.
  • Install new control panel by connecting communication wire and ground wire to user interface board.
  • Align control panel to frame and replace four screws that secure panel to mounting bracket.
  • Realign mounting bracket and secure with two screws.
  • Slide oven back into cabinet.
  • Ensure side trim pieces are in place and secure oven frame to cabinet.

How to Access Upper and Lower Thermostat and Cooling Fan

One of the signs that an oven has a blown or damaged thermostat is the oven is not heating correctly. Unfortunately, the entire double oven must be removed to access the thermostat.

  • Remove both oven doors as outlined above.
  • Remove bottom vent and oven racks.
  • Remove wall frame.
  • With help, remove entire oven from cabinet and lay on cardboard, blanket or something to protect the floor.
  • Use ¼ inch nut driver to remove both rear access panels, being careful to avoid any sharp edges.
  • To access lower thermostat, remove cooling fan blower first.
  • Remove blower fan access panel and disconnect baking element wires.
  • Disconnect power cable from blower fan assembly, remove fan assembly and set aside.
  • Use ¼ inch box wrench to remove bracket screws holding thermostat in place.
  • Use piece of tape to help indicate thermostat wire orientation. It does matter which wire goes to which terminal.
  • Attach wires to new thermostat and place where old thermostat was located. Tighten thermostat in place with screws previously removed.
  • Reposition cooling blower fan assembly on brackets and tighten screws.
  • Reconnect power wire.
  • Button up access plate.
  • Remember to reconnect bake element wires.
  • Replace rear access panel.
  • With help, lift and slide double oven back into cabinet.
  • Button up frame with screws previously removed.

Please note that you must access the rear panels if you want to replace a heating element, thermostat, or cooling blower fan assembly.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

CE Tech Tips — February 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 Hitachi TV,  42HDS52A
Reason for Service: Low sensitivity, short range of remote
Solution: Check remote batteries first. If that doesn’t resolve, replace LED/IR receiver:  X480310. 

Insignia TV, NS-LCD37HD
Reason for Service: Solarized picture
Solution:  Found bad AS15 on T-Con board and replaced. 

Magnavox TV,  RPK712AK03  (P1)
Reason for Service: Vertical is collapsed.
Solution: Check the following: IC750, vertical chip, R445, should be 1 ohm/ half W., and C556, C558. 

Mitsubishi TV, WD65732
Reason for Service: At plug in, green front LED flashes continually and set won’t start.
Solution: Replacing DM board fixed this set. 

Philips TV, 50PF7220A/37
Reason for Service: Set starts for a second then shuts down with red flashing LED
Solution: Found two bad caps on power supply board: C8059 & C8060, both 3300uF/10V.

RCA TV, L46WD22YX5
Reason for Service:  No analog channels or audio, but digital channels okay
Solution: Found open fuse, 1C33 on main board. Replace with #275819. 

Samsung TV,  LNT4671FX/XAA
Reason for Service: Set takes a long time to come on, and there are click sounds.
Solution: Bad caps in the power supply: check CB850, 1000uF/10V.

Vizio TV, VX37LHDTV10A
Reason for Service: Set won’t start; logo stays amber
Solution: Found defective AMC regulator, U8.  Replacing it fixed the set.

Zenith TV, module 9-1909
Reason for Service: One color missing
Solution: Check 120k ohm resistors 5103, 5110 and 5119 on CRT board.  Then, check transistors on the main: Q2200, Q2201, Q2202.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CE Tech Tips — January 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

Emerson TV,  LC501EM3
Reason for Service: At power on, LED flashes and relay clicks.  This keeps repeating, but set doesn’t come on.
Solution: Touch pad controls were bad; replace to fix the set.

LG TV, 37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Set turns on, then shuts down. Has backlight.
Solution: Found bad cap on power board:  C852, 470uF/10V.

Mits TV,  WD-65738
Reason for Service: Set starts to boot normally, then shuts down with 3-6 error.
Solution: Clean dust from exhaust fans and surrounding area, then check that fans are spinning freely.

Panasonic TV,  TCP50C1
Reason for Service: One blink error
Solution: If there is 5V at pin 9 of connector P25/A25, replace A main board.  If there is no 5V,  check for continuity between pin 9 of Connector P25 and pin 5 of connector P7 on P board.  If not, replace P board.

Polaroid TV, TDA3211C
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Check and replace as necessary: two 10uF, 450V caps and D10 all in the power supply.

Samsung TV, LN22B360C5D
Reason for Service: When trying to turn on set, standby light begins blinking continuously, and set never starts.
Solution: Problem on SMPS/IP board.

Sony TV, KDL-55HX800
Reason for Service: Set comes on, then shuts down.  Has 7 blink error code.
Solution: The code indicates bad HLR board or BAL board. Do this: Disconnect power.  Unplug HLR board and plug set back in and turn on.  Test to see if set now works properly and does not shut down. If so, replace HLR board.  If set does not work properly after this test, replace BAL board.

Toshiba TV, 50H72
Reason for Service:  White screen with lines across
Solution: Found cold solder on black wire that feeds the convergence ICs. Repaired solder, replaced fuse F850 (5A) and both STK392-110 ICs.