Tech Tips

Fixing Whirlpool Top Load Washer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If Whirlpool top loading washer model WTW4850HW or WTW4955HW stops working, there are a handful of reasons for a malfunction. This tech tip covers troubleshooting for when the unit appears to be dead — there is no noise when trying to start a load and nothing happens. Possible causes of the problem include:

  • Not plugged in securely
  • Current not reaching the outlet
  • Water supply valve not turned on properly
  • Filter screens filled with debris
  • Door lock switch not functioning
  • Washer motor not working

Check Plug

The easiest fix is to make sure the unit’s electrical cord is securely plugged in before starting the washing cycle.

Test Current

Use a voltage tester to ensure the electrical outlet is getting the correct voltage. If it is not receiving voltage, ensure that it is not controlled by a switch that may be accidentally turned off.  Other possible reasons that an outlet may not receive voltage are that the fuse has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped. Try resetting the circuit breaker to see if this fixes the problem. Another issue could be a ground fault circuit interrupt, which can cause an outlet to be tripped. (These are commonly found in bathrooms or near water.) Press the reset button to see if this fixes the voltage problem.  If you suspect loose wiring, check the outlet box where wiring typically wears down first.

Check Filter Screens

The water inlet valve for both hot and cold water is located at the back of the washer. The supply hoses should have a filter screen to catch debris from damaging the washer. If it’s clogged, the water pressure may be too low for the unit to properly function.

To check this, unplug the washer from the outlet and then turn off the water supply at the wall. Be sure to have a bucket on hand to catch any water spills. Next, disconnect the two water hoses connected to the rear of the washer and put them into the bucket. It is unlikely that the filter screen is damaged; it likely just needs to be cleared of debris. Clean off any buildup, but be careful not to damage the screens. (If screens are damaged, the entire water valve will need to be replaced.) Connect the water hoses again and check the functionality.

Door Lock

If the door lock is not shut all the way or defective, the unit will not work. The lid lock latch assembly can be replaced with part number W11307244. This is one of the more common reasons these models malfunction, but replacement is very easy.

To replace, unplug the washer and remove the back panel with a screwdriver. Then, detach the wire harness from the door latch assembly and reconnect the new door lock assembly.

Washer Motor

If nothing else works to get the unit working again, the cause could be a bad motor, or it may have just worn out over years of usage.

Replacing a washer motor can be expensive and a little more time consuming than some of the other fixes. Before replacing, be sure to have the correct part number and tools. While not required, a magnetic screw catcher can be helpful when working with appliances to keep them together while performing the repair.

Tools needed:

  • Large set of pliers
  • Electrical tape
  • 5/16th” socket
  • 1/2″ socket
  • Magnetic screw catcher (optional)
  • Towels for any water spillage

Unplug the power cord and shut off the water supply before beginning. Remove the washer away from the wall to easily access. Remove the hot and water supply lines from the inlet valve on the back of the unit using pliers, then twisting by hand. Water will likely spill out.

At the bottom of the washer, remove the drain hose by releasing the hose clamp with the pliers. Use a piece of electrical tape to secure the washer lid, and tip the washer on its back.

Use a socket or nut driver to remove the plastic belt guard, and disconnect the drive motor wire connector and the drive belt. This can be done manually without tools. Be careful not to stretch the belt. This is an ideal time to replace the belt if needed with part #W11239857.

With the ½” socket, remove the mounting screws and the motor. Next, install the new drive motor part #W10832724 by positioning it on the gearcase and tightening the screws to secure. Replace the belt if needed to the belt gears or use the existing one. Twist the larger gear several times to make sure the belt is lined up. The motor should be moving simultaneously.

Replace all other components that were removed. Connect the wire connector, and put the belt guard back on with the screws. Once the washer is upright, attach each of the three hoses on the back, making sure to connect the hot and cold water correctly. Turn on the water and plug in the washer and it should be good to go.

 

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Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

How to Test Fridge Bulb

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Wondering if that refrigerator LED is faulty? Just check it using a couple of pieces of scrap wire and an old battery.

In this example, a nine-volt battery that will no longer power a multimeter is being used. The battery is still putting out about 4.5 volts DC, which is ideal for testing refrigerator LEDs.

Take two small wires and strip them on each end — one end should be stripped at about half the length of the other. Using the short end, insert each wire into the connector for the LED.

With the wires inserted, hold them in place and touch the positive terminal to the battery to one wire and the negative to the other. Below is a link to a video showing the testing process step by step. If the LED lights up, it’s good and the issue is likely to be the door switch or LED driver.

WATCH HOW TO VIDEO

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — April 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 60SDX88B
Reason for Service: Picture displays a pin problem.
Solution: Replacing Q657 fixed this set.

Hitachi TV, 42HDS69
Reason for Service: Set just clicks when powered on.
Solution: Replaced two 3300uF/100V caps in power supply.

Insignia TV, NS42L780A12
Reason for Service: Set had good audio, but no picture because no backlight.
Solution: In the power supply, Q801 and Q802 were shorted, (had bad solder) and R801 was burned.  0.1ohm/2W.

Panasonic TV, TCP50X5
Reason for Service: Dead, may be intermittent.
Solution: Replaced U203 on back side of power supply.

 

Samsung TV, PN51D550C1
Reason for Service: Six blink code when you plug in set, but set will not turn on.
Solution: Determined it was bad Y main, then found shorted C5020 on Y main.  Replaced C5020.

Sony TV, KDL40V2500
Reason for Service: Right side of screen had video strobing; left side no video at all.  Audio okay.
Solution: Found 3 bad caps in power supply, C6204, C6205 and C6207.
Replacing these fixed the set.

Sylvania TV, LC190SL1
Reason for Service: Dead, fuse blown.
Solution: Replaced Q601, Q602, R610, 0.39Ω/2W and D607 zener. Also check D605, D606.

 

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Troubleshooting Sub-Zero Refrigerator

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Sub-Zero is one of America’s most renowned refrigerator brands, thanks to its legendary quality and features. This post covers troubleshooting and suggested repairs for the following models:

  • Model 700TR
  • Model 736TR
  • Model 700TF(I)
  • Model 736TFI
  • Model 700TC(I)
  • Model 736TCI
  • Model 700BR
  • Model 700BF(I)
  • Model 700BC(I)

Sub-Zero refrigerators typically require minimal maintenance and operate efficiently. However, integrated units can sometimes malfunction, indicate errors or fail to perform as expected. Here are some common issues:

Refrigerator or Freezer Unit Frosted Up

After some time, the Sub-Zero refrigerator may frost up around the cooling element. This can adversely affect cooling performance and puts more pressure on the motor. It also takes up space in the appliance’s internal compartment, leaving less space for food storage.

Here’s the fix:

  1. Determine if refrigerator door accidentally left open — This can allow moisture into the appliance, which then condenses on the refrigerant at the rear of the unit where it eventually freezes.
  2. Check seals around door — If seals are damaged, moldy or missing, air can freely circulate into the unit, allowing moisture to condense and form ice deposits. You can order a replacement gasket (door seal) from Sub-Zero. Heavy use limits the life of gaskets. The brand supplies the following gasket types:
    • BI – for Classic Series door replacement
    • IT, IC – for Designer Series and Designer Wine Storage replacement
    • PRO3650 and PRO4850 – for door gasket replacement
    • Generic parts are available if you are unable to source OEM.

Refrigerator Not Operating

Occasionally, Sub-Zero refrigerators will stop working entirely. Don’t assume the unit has come to the end of its useful life. Simple fixes can often resolve the problem.

Here are steps to try:

  1. Ensure power on — If appliances are on a separate circuit, check to see if the switch has tripped in the fuse box. Also, ensure that any buttons on the unit are set to the on or “1” position.
  2. Ensure refrigerator control on — Sub-Zero refrigerators come with a thermostat that continuously senses the internal temperature of the appliance and adjusts cooling power accordingly. Sometimes, however, it fails to switch the compressor on, even when the fridge interior gets warm, making it seem as if the appliance is not operating. Try installing a new Sub-Zero thermostat. On refrigerators, the control is on the top right of the back wall.
  3. Check to ensure unit not in showroom mode — If this might be the case, contact Sub-Zero customer service for step-by-step instructions on how to convert it to normal mode.
  4. See if unit is in defrost mode — Sub-Zero refrigerators periodically shut off the cooling unit to allow for de-icing. Wait half an hour to see if the unit restarts.

Ice Maker Not Working

Check to ensure the ice maker is:

  1. Turned on at control panel.
  2. Connected to water supply and operating properly.
  3. Also check to ensure the ice container is in correct position in freezer drawer.

“SERVICE” Warning Flashing On Control Panel Display

Sub-Zero refrigerators come with sensors that alert when service is needed:

  1. When “SERVICE” flashes, it could mean the condenser needs to be cleaned. This is the part of the refrigerator that transfers heat from the refrigerant to the air. Begin by switching the unit off and then switching it back on again. If the error message persists, contact a Sub-Zero-accredited repair engineer as this is not a DIY fix.
  2. On fridge-freezer units, if the error codes “SERVICE” and “ICE” are flashing, try above method and restart the unit to see if the alerts go away. If not, contact Sub-Zero-accredited repair engineer

Refrigerator Running Warmer than Usual

Occasionally, Sub-Zero refrigerators run warmer than usual, even if cooling is at the maximum setting.

Here’s the fix:

  1. Ensure control is set properly — It may have accidentally been set too warm.
  2. Ensure condenser area clean — If it isn’t, try unplugging unit from the wall and dusting around the area. If the problem is inside the unit, contact an accredited Sub-Zero repair engineer.
  3. Excessive and/or hot contents Has a large amount of food been recently stored inside? Solids tend to retain their heat longer than gases and require more energy to cool. If the unit was just loaded with fresh shopping or hot food, the temperature will rise, making it seem as if it’s running hot. Wait awhile and then check the temperature again to see if it’s still elevated.
  4. Doors or drawers kept opened Refrigerators are powerful enough to cool interiors, but they can’t cool a home. Make sure nothing is obstructing openings and preventing closure.

Refrigerator Runs Longer than Usual

Sub-Zero refrigerators should run only when the temperature rises above the set level. The rest of the time, they rely on insulation to keep food chilled. However, sometimes the refrigerator continues running for longer periods. Here’s the fix:

  1. Consider weather — On hot days, units will run longer to maintain cooler internal temperatures.
  2. Open doors Make sure doors are always tightly closed with no obstructions.
  3. Condenser — Check to ensure condenser area is clean.

Light Bulb Out

The lightbulb could fail in either the drawer or top compartment, making it difficult to see inside. Here’s the fix:

  1. Replace top compartment light with standard 40-watt bulb – code 3030030.
  2. Replace drawer compartment light with standard 25-watt bulb – code 3030060.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — March 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 60V500A
Reason for Service: Lamp LED blinking.
Solution: Check door lamp switch – boss on door or lamp assembly may not close switch. Apply tape to boss.

LG TV, 60PV250UB
Reason for Service: Set had no video, but audio okay.
Solution: Replaced Z-Sus and resoldered coils on Y-Sus.

Philips TV, 47PFL7403D/F7
Reason for Service: Dead set, no LED.
Solution: Found fuse open, U101 was shorted with black pin hole on top.  Also check for bad 120W resistor that feeds U101.

Samsung TV, PN51F8500AF
Reason for Service: Dead set, main fuse blown.
Solution: Found shorted transistor, QP804C on power board.  Replacing it and fuse fixed set.

Sanyo TV, DP42841
Reason for Service: Dead set, no standby.
Solution: Replaced R606 and IC601. STR-A6051M.

Sony TV, KDL40EX400
Reason for Service: Dead set with no standby.
Solution: Replaced following: IC6101, D6302, D6304 and R6107, 10ohm/1W.

Sony TV, KDL40SL140
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Set had no standby, fusible resistor R6200 open. 10ohm/half watt.

 

 

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Troubleshoot Kitchenaid Microwave Fan

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If your KitchenAid microwave fan is not working, there could be a variety of issues. This post provides some possible causes the fan may stop working on these popular KitchenAid microwave models:

KCMG125DBL0

KCMG125DWH0

KCMG125EAL0

KCMG125EBU0

KCMG125ERC0

KCMS135GBL0

KHMC1857WBL1

KHMS2040BBL0

KHMS2040BSS0

KHMS2040BWH0

KHMS2040WBL1

KHMS2040WSS1

KHMS2040WSS3

KHMS2040WWH1

YKHMS2040BS0

YKHMS2040BS1

YKHMS2040BS2

YKHMS2040WB0

YKHMS2040WS0

YKHMS2040WS1

YKHMS2040WW0

 

Fan Motor

One of the most common reasons a microwave fan stops working is a problem with the fan motor. Here’s how to test the fan motor with a multimeter:

  1. Unplug microwave and remove from wall or cabinet.
  2. Remove microwave casing / cabinet and locate fan motor located at the back of the microwave.
  3. Attempt to manually rotate the fan. If it can’t be rotated, it’s faulty and will need to be replaced.
  4. If it can be rotated, use multimeter to test for continuity, which is shown by reading of 0.
  5. If it has continuity, this is not the cause, so reassemble the microwave and read on.

Charcoal Filter

If the microwave is an over-the-range model, check to see if the charcoal filter is clogged. Over time the filter absorbs all sorts of pollutants and will eventually need to be replaced. For regular maintenance, replace the filter regularly to ensure the microwave operates properly.

Here’s how to inspect the charcoal filter:

  1. Unplug microwave.
  2. Locate charcoal filter behind exhaust air outlet grill and remove grill. Each KitchenAid model has slightly different way to remove grill, so consult product manual for directions.
  3. After removing grill, take out filter and look for any damage or build up of debris.
  4. If filter is damaged, blocked or been in use for longer than the manufacturer recommends, replace it. Filters can be found at most major retailers; just make sure it’s matched to the correct microwave model.

Grease Filter

Another reason the fan motor stops working is a clogged grease filter, which protects the exhaust system by trapping oils and fats from food heated in the microwave.

Here’s how to inspect a grease filter:

  1. Unplug microwave.
  2. Find the filter on the bottom of the microwave held in place with spring clips and remove it.
  3. Thoroughly inspect the filter to see if it is damaged or clogged.
  4. If it’s clogged, clean it with soap and water and put it back in place.
  5. If it’s damaged or too clogged to clean properly, replace it. Filters can be found at most major retailers; just make sure it’s matched to the correct microwave model.

Damper Assembly

Dampers are intended to prevent exterior air from entering through the microwave fan, and it can fail. The damper is a flap made of either metal or plastic and is usually spring loaded. Here’s how to check to see if the damper assembly is faulty:

  1. Unplug microwave and remove from wall or cabinet.
  2. Remove microwave case / cabinet to access damper assembly.
  3. Check for signs of wear and tear, that it’s prevented from opening and closing or damaged in some way.
  4. Replacement dampers can be found at major retailers that sell home appliance parts.

Thermostat

Microwave thermostats monitor air temperature, and turn on fan as needed. If it stops working, the fan will not turn on. Here’s how to check it:

  1. Unplug microwave.
  2. Check thermostat with multimeter, which can tell whether there is continuity. If not, replace.

Main Control Board

If all else fails, the microwave’s main control board may need to be replaced, but that should be the absolute last resort. Before replacing this part, check the exhaust fan motor and its wiring. If the motor is not getting power, it could be the result of a faulty main control board.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — February 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 53SDX01B
Reason for Service: When set turns on, screen is black except for OSD.  Channels changing constantly if you can see them.
Solution: Replaced defective DM04 on control board.

LG TV, 47LE5400
Reason for Service: Set won’t start past LG Splash logo. No buttons work.
Solution: Removed large plastic heatsink and then reflowed large IC on main board.

RCA TV, HD50LPW175
Reason for Service: FPD lights up, then blinks five times, and nothing further happens.
Solution: Check all following caps in power supply: C624, C639, C641, C647 and C640.

Samsung TV, LNT3242HX/XAA
Reason for Service: Dead set, has 5V standby.
Solution: Replaced RM801 in power supply.  0.22W/1W

Samsung TV, LN46A550P3F
Reason for Service: Set makes screeching noise then shuts off.
Solution: Replaced C102, SM 47uF/6.3V Blue box cap.

Sony TV, KDL32L504
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found bad IC6102 bad; replaced with Sony 670880101.

Viore TV, LC37VF55
Reason for Service: Set had bad picture, almost like solarized.
Solution: Replacing AS15-F on T-Con fixed set.




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Fixing Common Maytag Freezer Issues

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Maytag is a popular home appliance brand that makes a range of freezer units. This tech tip covers troubleshooting for different issues, including units not freezing, clicking sounds,  running all the time and leaking water.

Troubleshooting applies to these Maytag freezer models:

MRT311FFFE

MRT711SMFZ

MFW2055FRZ

MFF2055FRZ

MFF2558FEZ

MRT118FFFE

MSS25C4MGB

MFC2062FEZ

MSC21C6MFZ

MBF2258FEZ

MBF1958FEZ

MFI2570FEB

MFI2269FRB

MFT2772HEZ

MSS25N4MKZ

MFF2258FEZ


Not Freezing

Not freezing is a common issue that often only requires a simple fix instead of replacing the entire unit.

Here’s what to do:

  1. Check condenser coils: Condenser coils are a critical component in refrigerators and freezers. They transfer heat from the refrigerant to the surrounding environment. New freezers have clean coils, but over time they can attract dust, which can affect performance. To confirm coils are clean, turn off the unit, pull it out from the wall, and visually inspect. If they’re dirty, use a vacuum to remove the dust. Please note that freezers with internal coils do not require cleaning.
  2. Check evaporator fan motor: This device passes air over the coils, making heat transfer more efficient. When the motor stops working, the freezer will struggle to achieve freezing temperatures. Typically when the freezer door is opened, a micro-switch automatically switches off the fan so it doesn’t operate. To check that it’s working properly, find the micro-switch, press it, and see if the fan moves. If it doesn’t, contact a Maytag engineer to fit a replacement – part numbers WP2315539, WPW10189703, W11024089, WPW1012855, WPW10514110, and WP3-60336-001.
  3. Check the start relay: If the start relay isn’t operating correctly, the compressor won’t run, and the freezer won’t cool. If you have a multi-meter at home, you can check if the start relay is malfunctioning. Remove the component from your freezer, and then place the multimeter probes on the start and run terminals. If the unit smells burned or you can’t achieve continuity, order a replacement part.

Runs Constantly

There are many reasons why your Maytag freezer might be running all the time. Check these potential solutions:

  1. Issues with temperature control thermostat
    • Rotate control thermostat from lowest to highest setting. If you hear an audible click, the thermostat is unlikely the source of the problem.
    • If there is no click, connect the thermostat to a multimeter to test for continuity. Lack of continuity indicates a defective part.
  2. Issues with defrost timer
    • If the defrost timer doesn’t switch on, frost will accumulate on the evaporator coils, causing them to stop functioning correctly.
    • To check the defrost time, turn it using a screwdriver, and listen for a click. This should cause the compressor and fans to switch off and the coil heater to switch on.
    • If the heater switches on and defrosts the coils, the timer is faulty.
  3. Dirty condenser coils
    • On most freezers, condenser coils are inside the freezer walls and don’t require cleaning. However, if they are at the back of the unit, be sure to remove dust every 6-12 months.
    • Pull the freezer away from the wall to provide access to the coils.
    • Vacuum or use a duster.

Leaking Water

Occasionally, the freezer may leak water which usually means the defrost drain is clogged or frozen. During defrost cycles, water leaves the freezer through a defrost drain. However, water can freeze over the drain, causing subsequent flows to spill out of the bottom of the freezer over the floor.

To resolve this issue, do the following:

  1. Switch off the freezer and remove it from the wall (if you have a freestanding unit).
  2. Access the defrost drain.
  3. Thaw any ice using hot water, delivered via a turkey baster.
  4. If you experience this problem repeatedly, consider installing a drain heater.

Constantly Makes Clicking Sounds

Some Maytag freezers develop clicking sounds as they get older. This issue is caused by either a faulty start relay or problems with the compressor. Start relays provide power to the compressor – the unit that cools the freezer. When they start to fail, they can make a clicking sound.

Here’s the fix:

  1. Unplug the freezer from the main power supply.
  2. Locate the start relay.
  3. Unplug and remove the relay from the compressor (usually by unscrewing it).
  4. Use a multimeter to test for continuity between the start and run terminals.
  5. If it fails a continuity test or smells burnt, swap it out for a new one.

Compressors are vital components that circulate refrigerant throughout the refrigerator, via evaporator and condenser coils. When they become defective, they too can make a clicking sound.

Here’s the fix:

  1. Unplug the freezer from main power and pull it from the wall.
  2. Locate the condenser unit. It should be visible at the back of the appliance or behind a shroud.
  3. Use a multimeter to test for continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor.
  4. If the circuit is open, it means that the compressor is defective and should only be repaired by a licensed professional.

Light Not Working

Freezer lights, just like normal lights, have a limited life. If your freezer light is out, check the following:

  1. Ensure that the light bulb is burned out and not any wires or connections to it.
  2. Check the control and display board. Sometimes these can become defective, preventing power from reaching the light (though this is rare). If the indicator light is in good working order, but won’t light when you open the door, you might need a new control panel.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — January 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 57F59A
Reason for Service: Vertical distortion at bottom of picture, or Q777 has failed.
Solution: Install deflection Kit X480315. 

LG TV, 47LG50
Reason for Service: Dead, F101 open.
Solution: Found and replaced shorted mosfet in power supply, Q502.  Replacing this and fuse restored normal operation. 

Mitsubishi TV, VS6071
Reason for Service: No vertical.
Solution: Replacing vertical IC fixed set. LA7838S

Samsung TV, UN60F6350AFXZA
Reason for Service: TV will randomly cycle on and off; gets progressively worse.
Solution: Update firmware, and disconnect Wi-Fi module to see if problem goes away.  If so, replace Wi-Fi module.

Samsung TV, LN46C600F3F
Reason for Service: Set powers up with sound, but no backlight.
Solution: Found open cap in power supply, C818, 0.47uF/450V.  Replacing this fixed set.

Sony TV, KDL-26M4000
Reason for Service: Dead
Solution: Replaced cracked IC902, #670889101, and open R904.  10ohm/half W.

Toshiba TV, 46XV645U
Reason for Service: Dead, no power.
Solution: Replaced open R850 in power supply (1.8ohm/5W) and relay.  23146564X.


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Dishware Still Wet After Drying in Dishwasher

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When properly functioning and using a heated dry cycle, your dishes should come out of the dishwasher spotless and dry enough to put away. There’s nothing more frustrating than water droplets dripping from newly-cleaned dishware. If this is happening, here are some common causes to check:

Dishwasher Out of Rinse Aid

Lack of rinse aid is the most probable reason for dishes to come out wet, so check this first. Rinse aid is a solution that is added with the rinse water. It helps water slide off dishware more easily. By the time the dry cycle begins, there should be less moisture on the dishes and cutlery. Rinse aid helps dry faster and remove water spots, so it’s not just a gimmick product. Without rinse aid, the heated dry cycle typically is not going to be enough to remove all the water droplets.

However, if you’ve never used rinse aid and previously dried dishes are coming out wet, you’ll need to investigate other potential reasons.

Dishwasher Overloaded

Correctly loading a dishwasher can be a true art form and lesson in organization. But when you try to cram in too many pots, pans and glassware, water can get trapped with no place to drain and heated drying will be less effective — not to mention dishes won’t get fully clean. Consider doing two separate loads or wash dishes by hand instead of overloading the machine.

Heated Dry Malfunctioning

Dishwashers have a variety of drying functions: heated dry, sanitize (high heat kills germs as well as dries dishes) or night dry (heat dries lingering condensation periodically through the wash). Regardless of which you use, they all require a working heating element. This heating element, which also heats water to the proper temperature, creates heat to dry your dishes. If it is not functioning properly, dishes will come out wet. Plus, because water is not getting heated, dishes will likely not come out as clean as normal.

The easiest way to determine if a heating element is faulty is to open the dishwasher immediately after the dry cycle ends. Dishes should be warm to the touch. If they are cold and wet, the heating element has failed. Fortunately, replacing a heating element is a very simple repair.

Faulty Vent Motor or Fan

If dishes are warm after the dry cycle, inspect the vent and motor in the door of the dishwasher. These components push out the hot, moist air circulating during drying. If the fan or motor have failed, the moist air will still vent, but not as efficiently. As such, moist air can become trapped inside and settle back on the dishes.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

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