Tech Tips

Replacing Freezer Temperature Control Thermostat in Frigidaire Refrigerator

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

The freezer temperature control thermostat, or cold control thermostat, regulates the temperature inside the freezer compartment. When the thermostat senses the freezer is too warm or too cold, it cycles the compressor on and off. The control thermostat is found in the control housing inside the fresh food compartment of the Frigidaire refrigerator model FRS26R4CW.

The sensor bulb, which monitors the temperature, stretches from the control thermostat to the
freezer interior. If the freezer runs too cold or too hot, there’s a good chance the
temperature control thermostat has failed and is no longer switching the compressor on and off
at the appropriate time. Unfortunately, a damaged control thermostat cannot be repaired and
will need to be replaced.

Appliance Repair Safety Tips

  • Always unplug refrigerator and turn off its water supply before starting work to prevent electrocution injury.
  • Keep hands and eyes safe by wearing gloves and safety goggles during repairs.
  • Stop what you’re doing and contact an appliance repair specialist if ever a repair job feels unsafe.

Tools Needed

  • 1/4″ Nut Driver
  • Flat head screwdriver

Steps to Removing Control Housing Assembly from Refrigerator

  1. Open fresh food compartment door and either lower or remove top shelf. Once
    shelf is out of the way, unscrew refrigerator light bulb.
  2. At front of control housing assembly, depress water filter release button. When filter pops out, remove it.
  3. Using 1/4″ nut driver, unthread screw that secures water line cover to top and rear wall of  refrigerator. Then, carefully pull cover off wall and ceiling, and disconnect from back of control housing assembly.
  4. Now, unthread screws that hold control housing assembly to compartment ceiling and sidewall. There are several screws, so ensure all are removed, including the one behind the damper grill. Once all screws are removed, lower control housing and disconnect wire plug from ceiling.
  5. Next, pull out the two water lines that run to the back of the control housing. Some water
    may leak out of the lines, so have a towel nearby.
  6. Finally, pull out the temperature control sensor bulb from freezer compartment. Move control housing assembly to flat, sturdy work table.

Uninstall Freezer Temperature Control Thermostat

  1. Start uninstalling temperature control thermostat by removing control knob. To do
    so, insert flat head screwdriver behind knob and push off the control thermostat shaft.
  2. Next, remove control thermostat from mounting bracket by using flat head screwdriver to depress locking tab holding component in place. Then, lift thermostat up and disconnect wires running to it.
  3. Before completely uninstalling control thermostat, free the sensor bulb, which runs along side the damper control. To get to the part, pull top of damper control off control housing. Then, carefully slide sensor bulb out of the plastic installation tube.

Installing New Freezer Temperature Control Thermostat

  1. Take new control thermostat and straighten out sensor bulb. Then, thread bulb through plastic installation tube attached to side of damper control. Stop sliding sensor bulb forward once tip of the bulb reaches the end of the tube.
  2. Reinstall damper control by pushing it back onto control housing assembly.
  3. Insert rest of the sensor bulb into clips running along the inside of the control housing. Then, near the temperature control, bend the sensor bulb to fit the component back into mounting bracket.
  4. Before pushing control thermostat into bracket, reconnect wires to terminals. Then, use flat head screwdriver to pull back bracket locking tab while pushing down on control thermostat until the component locks in place.
  5. To complete installation, slide control knob onto thermostat shaft. Test knob out by twisting it around a few times to ensure it rotates freely.

Reinstalling Control Housing Assembly

  1. Begin installing control housing assembly by threading sensor bulb through opening near back of fresh food compartment. Then, insert control housing plug into refrigerator ceiling. Next, push water lines into back of the control housing assembly.
  2. Line up screw holes on control housing assembly with screw holes in fresh food compartment ceiling. Then, using 1/4″ nut driver, rethread screw closest to water filter housing. Once that screw is secure, reinstall the rest of the screws. Before finishing, insert screw near water lines and behind damper grill.
  3. Retrieve waterline cover and reinstall by inserting tabs on front of cover into slots on back of water filter housing. Then, push up on cover to insert locking tabs into the refrigerator ceiling. Finish installing cover by rethreading single screw holding it to rear wall.
  4. Slide the refrigerator water filter back into its housing. Replace fresh food compartment light bulb, and readjust top shelf.
  5. Finally, plug in the refrigerator and turn on water supply. Open refrigerator door and set control thermostat to desired temperature. Give some time for the new part to start working and then check to ensure the temperature is now working correctly.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — October 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: Dark picture, maybe also missing a color
Solution: Clean spark gaps; CRT pins and socket on CRT board.

Panasonic TV, PT44LCX65
Reason for Service: Dead, no lights
Solution: No 5V standby. Found bad 5 pin 5V regulator on bottom board.

Philips TV, 42PF5321D/37
Reason for Service: Set won’t start; both red and green LEDs flash
Solution:  Found bad C8014 in power supply. 33uF/450V

Samsung TV, HL50A650C1FXZA
Reason for Service: Set works for short time, then lamp turns off and back on intermittently
Solution: Found bad D803 in power supply.  UF4007

Samsung TV, LN40D630M3FXZA
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Replacing UN8015, (STRW60525) and RM811, 0.36 ohm/2W in power supply fixed set.

Samsung TV, PN50C550
Reason for Service: No picture
Solution: Visually found damage on one of the buffer ICs.  Replaced buffer assembly. LJ41-06755A 

Sony TV, KDL52W4100
Reason for Service: Vertical lines in screen and poor contrast
Solution: Replaced T-Con. 

Toshiba TV, 40E200U1
Reason for Service: Backlights work intermittently
Solution: Replaced inverter module. Toshiba 75017117

 

 

 

 

 

CE Tech Tips — September 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV,  42HDS52A
Reason for Service: Loud buzz comes from right speaker, nothing from left.
Solution: Replacing sub digital board fixed set.

Mitsubishi TV, WD-65835
Reason for Service: Dead set, no LEDs blinking or on.
Solution: If 12V and 21V supplies are okay, replace main board.

Panasonic TV, TH-50PZ77U
Reason for Service: 12 blink error code
Solution: Might be bad speaker. Ohm them and if one is low, unplug speaker and try set again.

Philips TV, 50PF7321D/37
Reason for Service: Dead set, clicks when plugged in.
Solution: Found two bad caps on power supply board: C8059 and C8060. Both 3300uF/10V.

Samsung TV, LN46D550K1FXZA
Reason for Service: No backlights
Solution: Replaced inverter board: 27-D056702

Sharp TV, LC-C3242U
Reason for Service: No power.
Solution: Check for shorted 5W/150V zener in power supply.  Also check R7002, 2.2ohm/half W.

Sony TV, KDL55EX621
Reason for Service: Shuts down with two blink error code.
Solution: Replaced Q6602 & Q6603 on G8 board, and R6540 on G6 board.  0.1ohm/half W.

Vizio TV, E421VA
Reason for Service: When set turned on, logo goes from amber to white for just a second, then the set shuts down.
Solution: Replacing the power supply fixed the problem.

 

 

 

 

CE Tech Tips — August 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 46UX12B
Reason for Service: Set shuts down.
Solution: Replaced Q401 & D441.

Panasonic TV, TC–P50X5
Reason for Service: Dead set, no power.
Solution: Replacing U203 on foil side of board fixed set.

Pioneer Pro150FD TV
Reason for Service:  Dead, two blink error.
Solution: Replaced power supply.

Samsung TV, PN64E533D2FXZA
Reason for Service:  Dead set, main fuse was blown.
Solution: Replaced shorted QS802, QS804 on power board.

Samsung TV, PN64E533D2FXZA
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found two bad FETs: QS802 & QS804. Fuse also blown: F801.

Sanyo TV, DP50749-01
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found shorted IC301, STR-W6252 and open fuse, 302, 1A. Replacing both fixed set.

Visio TV, VP50HDTV10A
Reason for Service: No picture, no prime but has audio.
Solution: Found open resistor, R135, on Y-SUS.  1ohm/5W ceramic.

Westinghouse TV, TX-42F430S
Reason for Service: Won’t turn on, but standby okay.
Solution: Replaced cap TC51 in power supply, 470uF/16V.

LG Dryer Faulty Gas Burner Valve Assembly

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

How to Replace a Faulty Gas Burner Valve Assembly in a LG Dryer

If clothes are still wet after completing the dry cycle in LG dryer model DLG2602R, it is likely due to lack of heat. This is a common dryer issue that could be caused by numerous possible malfunctions.

Once determining there are no issues with the high limit thermostat, flame sensor, thermistor and ignitor, consider examining the gas burner valve assembly, which supplies gas to the dryer burner. A malfunctioning valve assembly won’t administer gas, which means the dryer won’t heat.

Before starting any dryer repairs, unplug it from the wall and turn off the gas supply valve. Never attempt a repair without wearing proper safety gear, such as work gloves and goggles. As with all technically difficult and potentially dangerous repair, this repair is best left to a
specialist.

Steps to Replacing Gas Burner Valve Assembly

  1. Pull LG dryer forward and away from laundry room wall. On the back of the appliance, unthread screws that secure the top panel to  dryer. Once screws are out, pull panel toward you, and lift it up and off dryer.
  2. Now, disassemble the control panel. (Before disconnecting wires, it’s a good idea to take a photo of all wire connections to assist in easily reconnecting them during reassembly.) Start detaching the wire harnesses from the back of the board. Once all wires are disconnected, take out the screws that hold the control board console to the dryer, and then pull console off front of dryer.
  3. With control board removed, disconnect the door switch located near the top center of the door frame. Next, open dryer door and
    unthread screws that hold front panel to lint screen housing. Once the screws are out, close the door and unthread screws at the top of the front panel. Then, carefully tilt front panel backward, and pull it up and off dryer.
  4. Now, remove control panel bracket off the dryer. First, locate dryer light bulb and disconnect wire harness running to it. Next, locate two wiring retaining clips on the back of the bracket. Take out the wires being held in the retaining clips. Then, remove screws holding the control panel bracket to the front of dryer, and pull bracket off dryer.
  5. Near the bottom of dryer, disconnect wire harness to the moisture sensor. Once the wires are separated, unthread screws that
    secure bulkhead to dryer and carefully lift off.
  6. Reach in between dryer floor and dryer drum to take drive belt off idler pulley and drive motor pulley.
  7. Grab drive belt on top of dryer drum and use to help guide drum out of dryer cabinet.
  8. With drum removed, locate gas burner valve assembly in the cabinet’s lower right hand corner. Disconnect wire harnesses running to valve assembly terminals. With a Phillips screwdriver, unthread screws that secure gas line to burner valve. Once screws are loose, carefully pull gas line off burner valve. Next, take out screws holding valve assembly to mounting bracket, and then take gas burner valve off mounting bracket and out of dryer cabinet.
  9. Before installing new valve, take the orifice off the old gas burner valve and place on new component. Once orifice is securely
    attached to the new gas burner valve assembly, proceed with installation process.
  10. Place gas burner valve assembly on mounting bracket, ensuring screw holes are lined up on bracket with screw holes on the valve
    assembly. Then, replace screws used to secure gas burner valve to mounting bracket. Next, align gas supply tube with burner valve, and insert tube into the valve. Once tube and valve are connected, rethread screws taken out earlier to secure the tube to the valve. To complete installation, reconnect gas burner wire harnesses to valve terminals.
  11. Before putting dryer back together, take a moment to check for any gas leaks. To do so, fill a spray bottle with soapy water, and turn  gas supply valve back on. Then, spray gas burner valve with soapy water. If any bubbles form, a gas leak is present, meaning the connection is not tight enough. At this point, turn off dryer’s gas supply, and try tightening the tube and valve coupling. Once you’ve adjusted the union, turn gas back on, and run gas leak test again. If no bubbles appear, the gas leak should no longer be an issue. If bubbles are still forming, DIY consumers should contact a dryer repair technician to further inspect.
  12. After testing for leaks and none are found, turn off gas running to the dryer, and start reassembling the dryer. Pick up dryer drum and carefully guide it into the dryer cabinet, ensuring the drum back sits on the drum rollers. Then, reach in between the drum and dryer floor to rethread drive belt on idler pulley and drive motor pulley. Make sure belt is installed in zigzag formation.
  13. Retrieve dryer bulkhead, and align with front of dryer. Then, secure part with screws taken out earlier. With bulkhead in place,
    reconnect moisture sensor wire harness, and light bulb wire harness.
  14. Now, reattach control board bracket. Once bracket is in place, pull door switch wire harness to front of dryer through one of the
    openings on the bracket. Then, snap wire into retaining clips on back of the bracket.
  15. Grab dryer front panel and line up with the dryer front. Before laying panel flush, reconnect door switch harness to door switch, and
    finish installing front panel. After adding screws to secure panel, open dryer door, and rethread screws that connect front panel to lint screen housing.
  16. Snap control panel back on dryer, and reattach screws removed earlier. Finish installing control panel by reconnecting wire harnesses that run to the panel back.
  17. Finally, reinstall the dryer’s top panel, plug in the dryer and turn on gas supply valve.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — July 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 57UWX20B
Reason for Service: Shuts down.
Solution: Horz output voltage and B+ okay; Horz output transistor collector has distorted waveform.  Replace TH01.

JVC TV, LT32DM20
Reason for Service: Set starts with OSD showing input, then shuts down.
Solution: One of the inverter transformers was bad; replacing it fixed the set. Found it by comparing to other transformers.

Panasonic TV, TH-50PZ80U
Reason for Service:  No picture or OSD after powering on; power light lit.
Solution:  Replacing A board fixed set.

Samsung TV, HLP5085WX/XAA
Reason for Service: Set makes squealing noise when powering on.
Solution: Replaced C540, 1uF/50V SM cap on DMD module.

Samsung TV,  LN-T3753HN
Reason for Service: At turn on, backlight flashes for short time, then no more backlight.
Solution: Replaced inverter.

Sony TV, KDL46W5150
Reason for Service: Set comes on for 10 seconds, then shuts down. Does this three times then gives 10 blink error code.
Solution: Try factory reset.  Turn power on, then immediately press and hold arrow up and press and release power button.

Vizio TV,  VP322HDTV10A
Reason for Service: No audio.
Solution: Replacing SM Q15 fixed problem.

Westinghouse TV, LD-3255VX
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replacing U13/14 eeprom fixed set. TW61301-K032A69

How to Replace LG Washer Circulation Pump Motor

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

One of the most important parts of a washing machine is the circulation pump motor. When this part isn’t operating correctly, water isn’t circulating and clothes come out of the wash and rinse cycles still dirty. To replace this part,  order part #EAU61383503.

Following are the installation instructions:
1. Unplug washer and turn off the two water connections.
Please note the first step to any repair is unplugging the appliance. This is especially important when you need to disassemble the machine to reach interior parts. Also, turn off water connections to minimize the risk of a water leak, and pull the appliance away from the wall.

Depending on available space, you may also want to disconnect the water lines and pull the drain line connection out of the wall. During this repair, the machine must be tilted back to reach the circulation pump motor.

2. Disassemble machine to remove front access panel.
Locate pump filter in bottom left corner of machine. Remove door by opening and popping hinges free. Pull black hose out of clip and then remove hose cap. There may be water, so have a towel handy. Next, remove screw that secures pump filter housing in place. Remove housing, then loosen screw beneath that secures front panel to machine frame. Remove the outer boot seal.

Open door, and pry out wire clamp.  Pull outer edge of seal out from edge of front panel. Loosen screw securing door latch mechanism to right side, and then reach past seal around back of front panel to pull mechanism inside machine and out of the way. Then, close door and remove top access panel. At rear of the machine, remove two screws holding top panel to rear brackets. Slide top panel back, lift up and set aside.

Next, remove dispenser drawer at top left corner of control panel. You may have to reach in to depress back tab. Then, remove screw holding housing in place and push inside away from the front panel.

Remove control panel by taking out screw located at right interior side of control panel. Loosen ties holding lengths of wires flush and together against control panel. Unplug the three wire harnesses.

Next, peel the control panel away from front panel starting at top right corner. Once top is loose, tilt it forward to carefully pull wires out of cutout, and set aside. Lean against door and front access panel to hold in place. Then, remove screws along top of front access panel where control panel used to be. Tilt panel forward, lift free of bottom groove, and set aside.

3. Remove existing circulation pump motor.
Locate circulation pump motor in bottom left corner to right of green and cream hoses. Before removing parts, set a box behind the washer and tilt machine back at 45-degree angle for easier access to parts. Don’t pinch hoses and drain lines on the back.

Next, remove two wire harnesses from assembly. Also, remove retaining clip from assembly. Remove three screws that hold pump motor up against housing. The whole part should now come out. Be sure to take a picture of the screws and wires to have a helpful guide when realigning during reassembly.

4. Install new circulation pump motor.
Remove protective shield from part and snap into place around new circulation pump motor. Orient new pump motor so seal fits into housing. Press into place and re-secure all three screws. Next, reattach black and blue wires according to the picture (with black wire on bottom or right port and blue wire on top or left port) and ensure excess lengths of wires are securely held in place in retaining clip.

5. Reassemble washer.
First, pull washer back into standing position so it’s upright. Next, reattach front panel by setting on bottom groove. Tilt it flush with panel front, and lean against it to hold in place while securing top in place with screws.

Now reattach control panel. Set bottom edge against frame and slide wires through the cutout. Tilt panel up flush against frame and snap locking tabs shut. Tighten screw in top right corner inside machine. Then, reattach two wire harnesses on interior sides of machine. Then, slip wires against control panel back and tighten ties to secure wires.

Next, push  dispenser housing back into position in  front opening and secure in place with the two screws. Push drawer back into position and close it.

Set top panel on top of machine, but leave an inch or so hanging over back edge. Slide along rails so it snaps into position under front edge of control panel. Retighten the two screws on back bracket. At front of the machine, push door switch assembly back through cutout on right side of door opening and secure mechanism with the two screws.

Pull seal back into place around the opening. Press edges into groove and run your hand along entire circumference to check for gaps or loose sections. It should snap into place along the lip. Next, install wire clamp into the groove. Orient spring at the bottom and work counterclockwise from there to press into the groove. Once it’s too tight to pull into position by hand, use pliers to stretch the spring and push the extended wire into place around remainder of the circle. Tug on the seal to make sure it’s secure. The clamp and spring should note be visible.

Shut the door and reattach screw in the filter pump cutout to hold everything in place. Then, replace housing and attach with second screw. Reattach drain hose lock to black hose and fold hose back up into retaining clip. Reattach door by snapping hose into position.

Reconnect water lines by retightening them to inlets on the back of the machine and reinsert drain hose to wall connection. Turn on the two water connections, push the washer back into position, and plug washer back in.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — May 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 60SX2K
Reason for Service: Loss of color
Solution: Replaced X-501 and C508.

Magnavox 32MF30301B
Reason for Service: Power supply fix
Solution: Replace the following: Q600 & 601, D607, 610 & 640,  R608 & F601.

Panasonic TV, H50PE70U
Reason for Service: Set shuts down when trying to turn on.  Shows 12 blink error code.
Solution: Ohm speakers for a short, unplug it if one is found, then try set again.  Replace shorted speaker.

Philips TV, 40PFL3705D/F7 (Serial # beginning with YA1)
Reason for Service: No picture, but has backlight and audio
Solution: F100 on panel controller board was bad.  Replace with 3.15A SMD.  #PNF10148.

Sanyo TV, DP42647
Reason for Service: Set has black screen, but sound okay
Solution: Found shorted diode on T-Con board: CP4, SR34

Sharp TV, LC-52C6400U
Reason for Service: Dead; error, one long, one short.
Solution: Found bad diode on power board: D7805.  MUR460.

Sony TV, KDL-40V4100
Reason for Service: Picture solarized
Solution: Look for bad AS15 chips on T-Con.

Toshiba TV, XV645U
Reason for Service: Dead set; all fuses okay
Solution: Replacing IC Q880 fixed set.  STRY6456.

Vizio TV, L37HDTV10A
Reason for Service: Set locks up when going to tuner setup on digital input.
Solution: Replaced digital tuner board, #3370-0052-0187.

Accessing and Testing Microwave Door Switches

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

WARNING : Disconnect the microwave from any power source before moving forward.

Microwaves include three switches located behind the control panel: primary, secondary and monitor switch all actuate to keep the microwave from cooking the kitchen while the door is open.

Accessing the Switches

  • Remove the two Phillips screws that hold grill in place on top of microwave. Remove grill and lay aside.
  • Locate and remove the one Phillips screw that holds the control panel in place.
  • Lift up control panel and gently pull toward you. This will provide access to the three switches.
  • Remove all wires from control board. All wires are different from each other and will only fit on the terminal they were designed for.
  • Use needle nose pliers to remove connectors from terminals that can’t be removed by hand. Gently squeeze  connector to release it from the terminal.
  • The last wire to remove is the ground wire, which is connected to the microwave frame. Set control panel aside.
  • Remove  access cover and set aside.

How To Test the Switches

  • Set the multimeter to OHMS to test the three switches.
  • Please note that the primary and secondary switches are tested with the door open. With the door open, place the multimeter leads on the connectors on the primary switch first. When closing the door, the multimeter should produce a beep if the switch is good.
  • Test the secondary switch in the same manner.
  • Test the monitor switch with the door closed. When opening the door, the meter should beep.
  • If appropriate beeps did not sound on any or all three of these switches, replace the switch.

These three switches serve mainly to keep the microwave from operating with the door open. The switches also deliver voltage to the diode and magnetron which heat the microwave. If the switches test positive, this further confirms that magnetron has failed and needs to be replaced.

It’s time to button up the microwave. For most people, this is as far as you may wish to proceed. There is an ever increased chance of suffering a powerful electrical shock from the high voltage capacitor, which retains a residual amount of electricity. It will need to be discharged before the magnetron and high powered diode can be accessed and replaced.

Route the control panel wires back through the appropriate slots in the access cover and reattach the cover to the microwave frame. Reconnect the ground wire first and then reconnect all other wires to their compatible terminals.

Push the control panel back in place and secure with its Phillips screw. With the door open, replace grill cover. Opening the door makes it easier to replace the grill. Secure with its two Phillips screws. Do not over tighten these screws as the grill is made of plastic and it could break or crack.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

CE Tech Tips — April 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: No picture or OSD, but power light comes on.
Solution:  Replaced C603.

LG TV, 47LM4600UC
Reason for Service: Set seems to turn on, but there is no picture, sound or backlight.
Solution: Found shorted diode on the power board.  D607, MUR460.

Mitsubishi TV, WD65732
Reason for Service: At plug in, green front LED flashes continually. Set won’t start.
Solution: Replacing DM board fixed this set.

Panasonic TV, TC-P55GT30
Reason for Service:  Top half of picture was bad. After a short time, set shuts down.
Solution: Check and replace shorted FETs on SC board. Put star washers under screws and tighten well.

Sears TV, 509.14370, (JVC)
Reason for Service: HV comes up, then set shuts down.
Solution: Replacing the following fixed set: LA7832, D541, R541, 1.8 ohm/2W and C424, 100uF/35V.  Check all solder in vertical area for bad joints.

Sony TV, KDL-46EX720
Reason for Service: Set powers up for just a second, then shuts down with a 4 blink error code.
Solution: Set had bad LED driver board.  Replacing it fixed the set.

Toshiba TV, 50H72
Reason for Service: Diagonal lines on white screen.
Solution: Found and replaced two bad 10uF SM caps in HD module.

Zenith TV B27A76 9-2067 module
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found bad cap on unregulated B+ line. CX3407, 300uF/200V.