Tech Tips

Troubleshooting Samsung Flexwash

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

Fixing Problems with Samsung FlexWash Washing Machine

Trouble with a Samsung Flexwash washer?  Unfortunately, even the best clothes washers can suffer from faults or wear and tear. Instead of rushing to buy another washing machine, first try troubleshooting to potentially repair the unit and save time, money and hassle.

Depending the problem, you may still require a professional washing machine service. Nevertheless, an accurate diagnosis is the first step to repair. Following are some Samsung FlexWash troubleshooting tips that will hopefully help guide you to the right fix.

Washing Machine Won’t Turn On

When the FlexWash washer won’t even turn on, try these steps:

  • Confirm power outlet is gaining power by plugging something else into it. If the outlet is not producing power, check the home circuit fuse box.
  • Ensure power cord is working by using a multimeter unit. If the cord is dead, it must be replaced.
  • Test the door lock. This is the part that keeps the washer door shut during operation. If it’s not working properly and fails to latch, it will need to be replaced as the washer will not power on unless the door is securely closed.

Screen Shows Error Message

When the Samsung FlexWash onboard computer senses a problem, the machine won’t operate. In some cases, though, the washer is actually functioning properly. Try these steps to confirm an issue:

  • Unplug washer from power outlet for at least 10 minutes.
  • Turn power back on.
  • If it powers on, run test wash without any clothes or detergent.

These measures won’t always clear the two-character error code. However, if the error was caused by a simple mistake like the door not being shut firmly, this can help avoid unnecessary fixes.

Drum Won’t Spin

The FlexWash uses a direct drive motor without belts or gears, which means there are fewer components that can fail. While this does promote greater durability, the Samsung FlexWash can still have drum issues — the bearings may have rusted due to water
damage or there could be a blockage.

If the drum won’t spin, try to manually turn it by hand. If it feels tighter than it should, the added resistance may be due to a blockage. If you can hear something rattle in the drum, it could be a coin or other small item. Remove the back and lid off the machine to find what could be causing the issue. At the same time, check the bearings, which are located around the outer circumference of the drum.

The Door Won’t Open

If the door won’t open, there may be a blockage in the drainage filter. Alternatively, the FlexWash’s pump may have failed and the machine will need to be drained manually before the door can reopen. To do this, remove the drain hose and place it into a bucket or sink,
enabling gravity to drain the water out.

When a manual drain fails to fix the issue, the door lock is the next most likely source of problems. Remove the top part and EZ Drawer Dispenser before releasing the lock from inside. In most cases, a new door lock is required. However, it may be necessary to replace the
entire door, which is why the entire mechanism should be inspected first.

Washer Won’t Fill Correctly

The Samsung FlexWash is designed to handle large loads in minimal time. Achieving this requires a steady intake of water. If the washer isn’t filling up to the desired levels, try the following:

  • Confirm water valves for both hot and cold water are fully opened.
  • Ensure water supply is set to at least 20 psi.

If neither of these steps work, it’s likely time to call a professional technician.

It should be noted that the Samsung FlexWash is equipped with smart technology and is WiFi-enabled. Therefore, the Samsung SmartCare app can often diagnose issues before they are even noticed. Pay attention to the codes supplied and consult the owner’s manual to learn more.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — June 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

LG TV, 47LE5500
Reason for Service: Set seems to start with white LCDs flashing, backlight comes on but no audio or video.
Solution: Replacing main board fixed set.

LG Plasma TV, 60PK750
Reason for Service: Set powers up normally with two clicks when you turn it on, but if you turn it off and back on again, set won’t come on. Red LED blinking.
Solution: Replace cable between main and power board.  EAD60958306

Polaroid TV, FLM323B
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replace all caps in power supply and under heatsinks.

Samsung TV, LN32D430G3DXZA
Reason for Service:  Backlights not coming on, audio okay.
Solution: Power supply had some distressed areas from excessive heat; replaced entire module.  BN44-00438B

Samsung TV, HL67A750A1FXZA
Reason for Service: Set shuts down and 3 LEDs blink in the front.
Solution: Replacing LED driver board fixed set.

Sony TV, KDL55HX729
Reason for Service: Won’t power up, 2 blink error code.
Solution: Check and replace as necessary:  Q6602 & Q6603 on secondary power board and R6540 on main power board.  0.1 ohm/2W

Vizio TV, GV47LFHDTV10A
Reason for Service: At turn on, relay clicks and then clicks again in a few seconds. All yellow LEDs on set front are on, and you can only turn off by unplugging set.
Solution: Check for open 1.5A fuse on main board or check U5.  AMC1117

 

 

 

 


CE Tech Tips — May 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: Raster pulls in on bright scenes.
Solution: Found open connection at T703 and repaired.

JVC TV, LT-42E478
Reason for Service: At power on, Power light comes on
for a few seconds and blinks, but set doesn’t come on.
Must unplug before trying again.
Solution: Found shorted cap on T-Con board. C333, 330pF

 LG TV, 55LM4600
Reason for Service: Backlights on, no video, blue screen.
Solution: Replacing T-Con fixed set.

Samsung TV, HL67A750A1FXZA
Reason for Service : Dead, might be intermittent.
Solution: Found and replaced 8 bad caps in power supply.

 Samsung TV, LN46A500T1FXZA
Reason for Service: Colors wrong, kind of negative looking.
Solution: Replaced T-Con or U7 on T-Con, AS19-H1G. 

Sony TV, KDL-52XBR9
Reason for Service: Picture comes on, then goes off; does this three times before shutting down for good. 10 Blink error code.
Solution: Main board had to be replaced.

Toshiba TV, 57HX93
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found and replaced 2 bad caps on sub power board.

Vizio TV, E461-A1
Reason for Service: No picture, backlight or sound, but LED turns white at turn on.
Solution: Replacing EEPROM fixed the set.

 

 


How to Fix Noisy Dryer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

How to Diagnose and Fix a Noisy GE Dryer

Most dryers make noise when operating, but there’s a distinct difference between normal tumbling sounds and and abnormal sounds indicating a malfunction. Oftentimes, the type of sound a dryer emits can help pinpoint the specific failing part. If it’s a rumbling sound, for example, the blower wheel may be worn and loose whereas a grinding or scraping noise can signal a problem with the dryer glides. Luckily, both parts are fairly easy to replace. [Note: this post refers to GE dryer model DBXR463GBWW, but can be used as a general reference for other dryer models and brands.]

Dryer Repair Safety Tips

  • Before starting the repair, unplug dryer from wall and turn off gas supply.
  • Be sure to wear gloves and eye wear to protect against sharp objects while disassembling and reassembling the dryer.

Blower Wheel

The dryer blower wheel draws hot air into the appliance drum and then flows out the exhaust vent. As it ages, the blower can wear down, and become loose on its shaft. When this happens, a rumbling or thumping noise may be heard near the bottom of the dryer.

Replacing Dryer Blower Wheel

  1. First, remove the screws holding dryer console in place. Then, tilt console forward to disengage locking tabs, and lift part out to rest on back of dryer.
  2. To remove top panel, open dryer door and remove screws securing the front panel to top panel. Next, pull top panel toward you and lift it up and off dryer.
  3. Now remove screws holding front panel to dryer cabinet. Then, tilt front panel forward until you gain access to door switch harness, which is covered by a small metal shield. Move shield out of the way, and disconnect wires running to door switch. With door switch wires detached, lift front panel up and off dryer cabinet.
  4. Once front and top panels are removed, take out dryer drum. Remove top screws holding dryer cabinet to dryer bulkhead. Once  screws are out, reach underneath drum to remove drive belt from idler pulley. Then, use loose drive belt to help guide dryer drum out of dryer cabinet.
  5. With access to damaged blower wheel, remove screws securing thermostat that sits on blower wheel. Place thermostat on floor of dryer without disconnecting any wires.
  6. Next, remove screws holding blower wheel housing to front of dryer bulkhead. Move to back of drive motor and remove screws securing it to dryer floor. Once screws are out, carefully pull drive motor back to remove the blower wheel from its housing.
  7. Detach blower wheel from drive motor by unthreading screw that secures blower wheel clamp to motor shaft. After clamp is disengaged, slide blower wheel of motor shaft and remove back half of  blower wheel clamp.
  8. To start installing new blower wheel, slide back half of blower wheel clamp onto drive motor shaft. Next, slip blower wheel onto shaft and install front clamp to secure part.
  9. Now it’s time to reassemble the dryer. Start by placing blower wheel back into its housing, and then reinstall drive motor to floor of dryer. Once motor is secure, rethread screws that attach blower wheel housing to dryer bulkhead. Finally, place thermostat back on  side of blower wheel, and rethread screw that holds part in place.
  10. Retrieve dryer drum, and carefully guide it back into dryer cabinet. Be sure to line up shaft on back of drum with cut out in back of dryer cabinet.
  11. Once drum is in place, rethread drive belt around idler pulley and motor shaft pulley. Then, reattach screws that secure dryer cabinet to dryer bulkhead.
  12. Line up bottom of the front panel with bottom of dryer cabinet, and then reconnect wire harness that runs to dryer door switch. Once door switch and its wires are rejoined, finish replacing dryer front panel by lifting it up and securing it with screws taken out earlier.
  13. Finish closing up dryer cabinet by reattaching top panel. To keep panel in place, open dryer door and rethread screws that secure it to cabinet.
  14. Flip over dryer console, and line up tabs on bottom of console with slots on top panel. Then, push console back until it clicks into place. Finally, secure console by rethreading screws taken out at the beginning of the repair.

Replacing Outer Drum Slides

The drum slides in the dryer supply the drum with support by providing a smooth surface for it to rotate on. Due to age and years of use, the slides in a dryer can wear down; one of the first symptoms of failing slides is either a grinding or scraping noise. Following are instructions on replacing dryer slides:

  1. Remove screws that secure dryer console to dryer, and then lift console up to free bottom tabs from top panel. Flip console over back of dryer and allow it to safely rest there.
  2. Open dryer drum and remove screws holding top panel to front panel. Then, lift panel off dryer cabinet.
  3. Unthread screws securing front panel to dryer cabinet. Once screws are out, lift panel up and off front of dryer cabinet. There is no need to disconnect door switch wire harness; instead, lean front panel against something sturdy so it doesn’t fall.
  4. Outer drum slides can be found on back of front panel around drum slide bearing. Remove damaged slides by pulling them out of  slots.
  5. Discard old drum slides and install new ones by simply inserting into existing slots.
  6. Reattach front panel to dryer cabinet, securing it with screws previously removed. Reposition top panel and open dryer door to replace screws holding panel in place. Finally, flip over dryer console and reinstall it.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

How to Clean Refrigerator Condenser Coils

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

The modern refrigerator is a marvel of advanced and traditional technology. Developing the ability to keep food cold is one of the most important inventions of all time, so it can be devastating when the fridge stops working.

Sometimes a refrigerator will slowly stop cooling just enough because of dirty condenser coils. Condenser coils are part of the critical systems that maintain appropriate cold temperatures inside the fridge. When a layer of dust and household grime builds up on condenser coils, the system will overheat, preventing it from efficiently cooling the fridge or causing it to stop working.

Fortunately, cleaning condenser coils is not hard if you know what you’re doing and have the right supplies. Here’s a quick guide to cleaning refrigerator condenser coils and safely returning a fridge to tip-top condition.

Be Prepared to Repair

Know Your Condenser
Every refrigerator brand and model is a little different, but condensers for most are located underneath the fridge behind a kick plate cover or grate. To confirm, consult the refrigerator’s owner’s manual or parts guide, which can be easily found online if you no longer have the documentation. (Encompass posts schematics for most refrigerator models on its site.)

Collect Supplies
This is a fairly simple repair that doesn’t require many supplies.  Here is a list of suggested items:

  • Work Gloves
  • Screwdriver
  • Soft Bristle Brush
  • Vacuum with Edging Attachment
  • Shop Towels
  • Heavy Duty Sponge
  • Dish Soap

Getting Started

  1. Unplug Fridge Power Cable
    This is for your own safety; food will be fine for half an hour while the fridge door stays closed. Disconnecting the fridge from power will prevent shock and electrocution while cleaning the coils.
  2. Remove Condenser Cover
    In most cases, the cover will be located along the bottom of the front of the fridge. Check to see if it is screwed in or clipped to determine the tools and approach you will need to pop the cover open and access the condenser coils inside.
  3. Clean Cover
    Over time, it’s natural for the cover to get saturated with grease, spills and floor grime. Be sure to scrub it clean in the sink with soap and water or at least use a damp rag to remove as much build up as possible. At least moderately cleaning the cover is important to maintaining clean condenser coils and promoting healthy airflow through the fridge components.
  4. Straighten Any Bent Fins
    If the condenser coil fans have been knocked significantly out of place, try straightening any bent fan blades. This can noticeably improve performance of the condenser and fridge. However, only bend a piece of the fridge’s inner workings if you are confident about what you’re doing and the fridge is unplugged.

Cleaning the Fridge Condenser Coils

  1. Brush Away Lint
    With a soft-bristled cleaning brush, very gently sweep off the condenser coils to clear away dirt, dust and hair and other grime. The brush should be effective enough, but use a vacuum if necessary.
  2. Vacuum With Soft Brush Attachment
    Start with a soft brush attachment and gently sweep over the coils again, this time with the help of suction. Carefully move the vacuum head back and forth over the coils, paying special attention to crevices and spaces for extra dust to build up. Next, switch to the precision corner attachment. Use this to remove any remaining specs of dust or grime that might be insulating the coils from being kept cool.
  3. Reattach  Cover
    With the coils clean, replace the cover in the same way it was removed.

Testing Results

  1. Plug in Fridge 
    Turn the fridge back on, and let it start cooling. The true test of a working condenser coil is when the fridge stays icy cold over several hours throughout the day, so check back in from time to time.
  2. Use Small Shelf Thermometer
    The best way to identify problems with a fridge’s coolness level is to regularly monitor the temperature with a simple clip-in fridge thermometer. If you notice any changes, you can immediately start troubleshooting before a possible minor problem becomes major.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — February 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

JBL Subwoofer, MP418SP
Reason for Service
: Motor boating audio
Solution: Checked main filters (8200uF/110V) for bad solder, arcing on board, etc. Cleaned all and resoldered.

JVC TV, LT46AM73
Reason for Service:
Set powers on and off, but no picture or backlights
Solution: Replaced Q3817 and Q 381, plus open 1A fuse.

LG TV, 47LK520
Reason for Service:
No video, but has backlights and video
Solution: Removed and cleaned LVDS cables on both ends.

Samsung TV, PN64D8000FFXZA
Reason for Service:
Shuts down intermittently
Solution: Found bad solder at TS801 and TS802. Resoldering fixed set.

Samsung TV, PN51D6500DFXZA
Reason for Service:
Shuts down, or Picture and Splash screen alternate every few seconds
Solution: Replaced main board.

Samsung TV, LN-T5265FXAA
Reason for Service
: Set has sound and video but no backlight
Solution: Found bad solder connections on T1801 and resoldered.

Samsung TV, LN46A650A1F
Reason for Service
: Dead set
Solution: Found and replaced two 1000uF/25V caps in power supply.

Vizio TV, SV320XVT
Reason for Service:
Back lights don’t work
Solution: Replaced Q203 & Q204 on power board, as well as R209, 0.1 ohm/2W.

How to Replace Oven Door Switch

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

While the oven door switch may not seem to mean much for oven functionality, it actually is of some importance. First, it influences how the oven light works. For many ovens, the door switch turns on the light if the oven opens, and turns it off when it closes unless the oven light switch is on. Also, the door switch affects the cleaning function in that the oven won’t self-clean if the door switch has stopped working and doesn’t sense the door is closed when it is.

This post provides detailed instructions on replacing an oven door switch, which is a simple repair with an interesting step.

Gather Supplies

Find the correct replacement door switch for your oven by checking the owner’s manual for the part number.  Other supplies include:

  • Screwdriver – Phillips and flat head
  • Work gloves
  • Prop stick

Safety First

  • Disconnect Power
    Because this repair involves an electrical component, there is risk for dangerous shock. Be sure to cut power to the oven before beginning work. If you can’t reach the plug — very common with built-in ovens — turn it off at the breaker.
  • Put on Gloves
    This repair also involves handling potentially sharp surfaces inside the oven, so it is especially important to wear work gloves for protection.

Open Top

  • Open Oven Door
    Open oven door all the way to access the front of the door switch and the underside of the cooktop lip.
  • Remove Screws Beneath Cooktop Lip
    Underneath the front lip of the cooktop are two screws with heads pointing toward the floor. Unscrew them and set aside.
  • Carefully Pull Cooktop Forward
    Pull cooktop forward to free two hinge tabs at back of cooktop and lift up. It’s okay to wiggle and lift cooktop as you pull it free.
  • Lift and Prop Cooktop
    Once cooktop is free of  hinge tabs, lift up front of cooktop like a box lid. Use piece of wood or sturdy stick to prop it open, bracing on metal. Be careful not to damage oven insulation underneath.

Remove Existing Door Switch

  • Identify Door Switch
    The door switch is a small cylindrical part set into upper right or left corner of oven door aperture with wires through the back.
  • Disconnect Wires
    Remember which color of wire is on top, and then disconnect wires. Take a picture for help when reassembling.
  • Release Locking Tabs
    With flat-head / slot screwdriver, press down on metal locking tabs of door switch, allowing switch to loosen.
  • Pull Out Door Switch
    Pull door switch out through front of oven and set aside. Switch can be thrown away or e-recycled.

Install New Door Switch

  • Push New Switch into Place
    Slide new door switch into place through now-vacant hole in front of oven door aperture. Press until locking tabs click.
  • Connect Wires
    Reconnect wires in same way they were connected to existing door switch.

Reassemble Oven

  • Remove Prop and Lower Oven
    Reverse process to open oven top. Start by removing prop stick and gently lowering cooktop back onto oven body.
  • Fit Hinge Tabs Below Upper Control Panel
    While sliding oven cooktop backward, be sure tabs fit neatly underneath control panel.
  • Line Up Cooktop Sides
    Ensure sides of cooktop settle correctly over top of oven body and are not leaning to left or right.
  • Push Back Firmly
    Now firmly and carefully, push cooktop back into place. You may need to wiggle it and vary force to get firmly into place.
  • Return Mounting Screws
    Now return mounting screws underneath cooktop lip.

Test Repair

  • Restore Power
    Plug oven back in or switch breaker back on.
  • Open and Close Door
    Next, try opening and closing oven door with oven light manually turned off. Check if light comes on when door opened and turns off when closed.
  • Run Self-Cleaning Cycle
    Now, test run self-cleaning cycle. If oven runs complete cycle, repair was a complete success!

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

How to Replace Broken Dryer Buzzer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

Many people rely on dryer buzzer alerts to keep laundry moving efficiently, while others find the sound annoying and keep it turned off.  If you find the alerts more of a help than a hindrance, read on to see how easy it is to replace a broken Whirlpool-style dryer buzzer.

Get It Together

The first step to any appliance repair is to gather all necessary tools and the correct replacement buzzer. Be sure to double check the part number for your dryer’s make and model before placing an order. Here’s what you need:

  • Replacement Buzzer
  • Screwdriver (flat head and Phillips)
  • Hand Towel or Cloth
  • Work Gloves (optional)

Repair Steps

  1. Unplug Dryer — Because this is an electrical repair, start by unplugging the dryer. This prevents shock when changing out the electrical components.
  2. Pull Dryer from Wall — Move the unit away from the wall and/or turn it to have enough room to stand behind it while accessing the upper back panel.
  3. Open Back Panel — Remove the mounting screws attaching the back panel to the control panel housing and set aside. Use the towel to fully pull away the back panel as the edges can be sharp. Work gloves can also keep your hands safe from an accidental cut. Set the panel aside next to the screws.
  4. Remove Broken Dryer Buzzer — Take off the buzzer knob or button. Trace the button to the exact location in the back of the dryer. Different dryer models often place the buzzer in various locations, so this is the most reliable way to find the right part. You can also match it to the appearance of your replacement part.
  5. Disconnect Wiring Clip — Pull wiring clip free from existing, broken buzzer [you may need to press a release catch].
  6. Unfasten Mounting Screw(s) — The existing buzzer should be mounted with one or two screws, which need to be removed and set aside. Now, remove the buzzer and discard, or preferably recycle.
  7. Install New Part — Start by connecting the wiring clip to the back of the new buzzer, just as the previous buzzer was connected. This is easier to do while the buzzer is not yet fastened.
  8. Align New Buzzer — Align the new buzzer into place. There may be a second screw point or a small lip or clip that slots into a hole where the top of the buzzer should go. Make sure that one or both screw holes are aligned with the mounting points inside the control panel. Then, fasten the mounting screws firmly to hold new dryer buzzer in place.
  9. Return Knob & Reassemble Dryer — Finally, if you removed the knob or button, return it to the front of the dryer panel. With the new part installed, close the back panel, aligning it into place and ensuring the mounting screw holes line up with the dryer panel housing. Fasten the back panel mounting screws and push the dryer back toward the wall. Be careful with the dryer duct tubing, which will need to remain uncrumpled while you push the dryer.
  10. Test New Buzzer — Plug the dryer back in and set a short timed drying session to ensure the buzzer sounds.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — January 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 42HDS52A
Reason for Service: Lines in picture
Solution: Replacing logic board fixed set.

Panasonic TV, TC-L32C22
Reason for Service: Dead, 10 blink error
Solution: Replaced IC7301 on power supply board.

Samsung TV, TX-T2793H
Reason for Service: No picture, vertical collapsed
Solution: Replaced vertical IC and both C301 and C314.

Samsung TV, LN40A500T1FXZA
Reason for Service: Picture looks bad (smeared) but menu okay
Solution: Replacing T-Con fixed problem.

Samsung TV, UN60EH6002FXZA
Reason for Service: Very hard to turn set on; took several tries
Solution: Replacing main board fixed issue.

Samsung TV, LN40B630
Reason for Service: Dead
Solution: Replaced Q1820 and Q1821, and fuse FM8025.  (3.15)

Sony TV, KP51WS510
Reason for Service: Dead, six blink error
Solution: Replaced regulator IC5004 and C5031.

Toshiba TV, 46XV640U
Reason for Service: Set has backlight and audio, but no video
Solution: Found defective cap, C506.  SMD electrolytic 22uF/16V.

Vizio TV, E421VA
Reason for Service: Logo is amber in standby, when power pushed, logo turns white for second, then set shuts down
Solution: Replaced power supply.

 

 

 

 

CE Tech Tips — April 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Emerson TV, IC401EM2F
Reason for Service: Dead
Solution: Found shorted zener, D1208B and open 8A fuse.

Hitachi TV,  53SDX01B
Reason for Service: No audio
Solution: Replaced open relay, S904.

LG TV, 47LS4500
Reason for Service: Won’t turn on, 3 blink error
Solution: Replaced D603 on power supply.

Philips TV, 50PF7321D-37
Reason for Service: Dead, 6 blink error
Solution: Replaced C8014, 33uF/450V.

Samsung TV, HL72A650C1FXZA
Reason for Service: Set cycles off and on
Solution: Replaced ballast cap 47uF/450V and two 200V caps in power supply.

Samsung TV, UN32EH4003
Reason for Service: Set plays for a while then intermittently shuts down
Solution: Replaced CM867 in power supply.

Sony TV, KDL46EX500
Reason for Service: Powers on then shuts down with 6 blink code
Solution: Replaced power supply, 147420511.

Toshiba TV, 32CV510U
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Replaced Q860, STRZ2589 and open fuse F820.  2A.