Tech Tips

Accessing and Testing Microwave Door Switches

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

WARNING : Disconnect the microwave from any power source before moving forward.

Microwaves include three switches located behind the control panel: primary, secondary and monitor switch all actuate to keep the microwave from cooking the kitchen while the door is open.

Accessing the Switches

  • Remove the two Phillips screws that hold grill in place on top of microwave. Remove grill and lay aside.
  • Locate and remove the one Phillips screw that holds the control panel in place.
  • Lift up control panel and gently pull toward you. This will provide access to the three switches.
  • Remove all wires from control board. All wires are different from each other and will only fit on the terminal they were designed for.
  • Use needle nose pliers to remove connectors from terminals that can’t be removed by hand. Gently squeeze  connector to release it from the terminal.
  • The last wire to remove is the ground wire, which is connected to the microwave frame. Set control panel aside.
  • Remove  access cover and set aside.

How To Test the Switches

  • Set the multimeter to OHMS to test the three switches.
  • Please note that the primary and secondary switches are tested with the door open. With the door open, place the multimeter leads on the connectors on the primary switch first. When closing the door, the multimeter should produce a beep if the switch is good.
  • Test the secondary switch in the same manner.
  • Test the monitor switch with the door closed. When opening the door, the meter should beep.
  • If appropriate beeps did not sound on any or all three of these switches, replace the switch.

These three switches serve mainly to keep the microwave from operating with the door open. The switches also deliver voltage to the diode and magnetron which heat the microwave. If the switches test positive, this further confirms that magnetron has failed and needs to be replaced.

It’s time to button up the microwave. For most people, this is as far as you may wish to proceed. There is an ever increased chance of suffering a powerful electrical shock from the high voltage capacitor, which retains a residual amount of electricity. It will need to be discharged before the magnetron and high powered diode can be accessed and replaced.

Route the control panel wires back through the appropriate slots in the access cover and reattach the cover to the microwave frame. Reconnect the ground wire first and then reconnect all other wires to their compatible terminals.

Push the control panel back in place and secure with its Phillips screw. With the door open, replace grill cover. Opening the door makes it easier to replace the grill. Secure with its two Phillips screws. Do not over tighten these screws as the grill is made of plastic and it could break or crack.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

CE Tech Tips — April 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: No picture or OSD, but power light comes on.
Solution:  Replaced C603.

LG TV, 47LM4600UC
Reason for Service: Set seems to turn on, but there is no picture, sound or backlight.
Solution: Found shorted diode on the power board.  D607, MUR460.

Mitsubishi TV, WD65732
Reason for Service: At plug in, green front LED flashes continually. Set won’t start.
Solution: Replacing DM board fixed this set.

Panasonic TV, TC-P55GT30
Reason for Service:  Top half of picture was bad. After a short time, set shuts down.
Solution: Check and replace shorted FETs on SC board. Put star washers under screws and tighten well.

Sears TV, 509.14370, (JVC)
Reason for Service: HV comes up, then set shuts down.
Solution: Replacing the following fixed set: LA7832, D541, R541, 1.8 ohm/2W and C424, 100uF/35V.  Check all solder in vertical area for bad joints.

Sony TV, KDL-46EX720
Reason for Service: Set powers up for just a second, then shuts down with a 4 blink error code.
Solution: Set had bad LED driver board.  Replacing it fixed the set.

Toshiba TV, 50H72
Reason for Service: Diagonal lines on white screen.
Solution: Found and replaced two bad 10uF SM caps in HD module.

Zenith TV B27A76 9-2067 module
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found bad cap on unregulated B+ line. CX3407, 300uF/200V.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Replace Whirlpool Refrigerator Water Tank and Filter Head Assembly

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When a leak occurs inside a Whirlpool refrigerator, the water tank and filter head assembly could be at fault. This is the part that connects the water supply line behind the refrigerator to the filter and then to the inlet valve. In an area with hard water, buildup can clog or crack through the tubing. Following are steps to replacing the assembly with part #WP12956202.

1. Unplug refrigerator and turn off water supply
Always be sure to unplug an appliance before starting a repair. Also, because this repair involves replacing part of the water system, turn off the water supply at the local shut-off valve behind the refrigerator. The part being replaced connects directly to the supply line, so disconnect the supply line from the water inlet valve at the base of the refrigerator while you’re behind the appliance.

2. Dismantle refrigerator interior
As the assembly is mostly positioned inside the refrigerator, dismantle some of the inner paneling. To get started, open the doors and remove the right side shelving. (Just pull up to remove the
hooks from the rear brackets and slide them out.)

Next, locate the water filter cover at the top of the refrigerator. Press down the tab to open the covers. Turn the filter counterclockwise and fully remove it. Press the back of the cover panel free of the hinge pin, pull out the whole cover panel and set aside.

Remove the interior access panel in the middle of the right back paneling inside the refrigerator. (This is the panel with the four small holes around the perimeter.) To remove it, insert a flathead screwdriver into each of the holes to depress the locking tabs. For the top two holes, press in toward the opposite hole. For the two lower holes, press the screwdriver down to disengage the tabs. Tilt the panel down and wiggle the bottom free from its mounting tabs and set the panel aside.

Then, remove the upper access panel by inserting the screwdriver into the central hole along the bottom and disengaging the locking tab by pushing it up. Pull the panel out and set aside. The water tank at the back of the refrigerator’s interior is now accessible, as well as the filter head running up the back into the ceiling.

3. Remove old water tank and filter head
The water tank may still contain water. Before removing the old parts, place a towel at the bottom of the refrigerator to catch any leaks.

First, loosen the housing that holds the filter head at the ceiling. Do this by prying open the mounting tabs toward the front of the housing and then rocking the back of the housing free until the housing is supported only by the lines running up to the filter head.

Next, press down the tabs at the top of the blue water inlet valve so you can pull the small tube free from the top. Once it’s free, you can remove the transparent support housing around the tube. Also, pull the water line to the left out of the mounting tabs. Completely separate the housing bracket from around the filter head and set  aside.

Move to the rear of the refrigerator and locate the water inlet tube that was disconnected at the start of the repair. Loosen the screw that holds the tube in place. Push it down and remove the plastic retaining clip from around the tube. Then, remove all the screws holding the lower rear access panel in place. Set the panel aside.

Return to the front of the refrigerator. Start removing the columns of the water tank from the retainer clips. Once they’re all down, carefully pull the water inlet tube into the body of the refrigerator.

4. Install new water tank and filter head
Push inlet tube into the hole at the bottom of the refrigerator. Feed as much of the length through the hole as possible. Next, align the new water tank in the back of the refrigerator so the inlet tube is to the right.

Press the columns of the water tank into the retaining clips until they click and engage. This may have to be done one column at a time to make sure everything fits properly. Return to the rear of the refrigerator. Remove  protective cover at the end of the new inlet tube. Place the old plastic retainer clip on the new tube.

Reattach the rear access panel. Slip the water inlet tube through the bottom cutout and the power cord through the top cutout so nothing gets pinched. Then secure the panel with the screws around the perimeter. Next, attach the water inlet’s retaining clip to the middle of the panel and connect the inlet tube to the water supply line.

Return to the front of the refrigerator. Now install the new filter head attached to the water tank. Take the transport tube support from the old assembly and attach it to the filter head’s inlet tube. Also, attach the filter
housing to the filter head. It should snap into place around the arms at the top of the filter head.

Next, reattach the water tube to the inlet valve. Pry the blue valve slightly forward to make more room. Then, push the tube firmly into the valve. It should go all the way in until reaching the wider portion of the tube. Push  valve back into place.

Fit the longer water line into the groove along the left side of the cavity. Once the tubes are in place, attach the new filter head to the top of the refrigerator. Line up the back of the filter head assembly into the rear of the cavity and then press the cylindrical housing into place. All of the locking tabs should be heard to engage.

5. Reassemble the refrigerator interior.
Start by reattaching the upper inner access panel. Hook the top of the panel over the arms near the filter head assembly. Then, swing the panel until it is flush with the back of the refrigerator. Press firmly into place.

Next, install the lower cover. Slip the bottom of the panel into the groove, and then press the rest of the panel flush with the back of the refrigerator until the locking tabs engage.

Then, install the water filter housing cover: there is a hinge pin on either side of the filter head housing. Slide the matching hole of the hinge at the back of the water filter cover over one arm. Then slightly stretch the other side of the cover to reach around and grab the hinge arm on the other side. Take care not to crack the plastic. Before reattaching the water filter, twist and remove the bypass cap inside the filter head. Twist the water filter into the new filter head clockwise. Then, snap the water filter cover shut. Reinstall the shelves, shut the doors, and
plug in the refrigerator. Be sure to also turn back on the water supply.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — March 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Emerson TV, LC320EM3FA
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Found shorted diode, D633. Replacing fixed set. NTE146A.

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: No pic or onscreen display but power light does come on.
Solution: Found bad C603 and replaced.  

LG TV, 37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Takes several attempts to turn on set
Solution: Found two bad caps, C114, 10uF/50V and C852, 470uF/10V.

Panasonic TV, TC-37LZ85
Reason for Service:  Dead; no standby 5v or 12V
Solution: Found D7006 leaky in power supply. 15V/1W zenner.

Samsung TV, PN51E550D1FXZA
Reason for Service:  Wi-Fi not working.  Set may cycle on and off.
Solution: Replaced Wi-Fi module. BN59-01148B.

Sceptre TV, X322BV
Reason for Service: Picture was flashing
Solution: Cleaned both ends of LVDS cable and applied Deoxit.

Toshiba TV, 55ZV6T50U
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Replaced relay SR80 and R850, 1.2 ohm/5W.

Vizio TV, VX370E
Reason for Service: Picture solarized
Solution: Replaced AS15-F IC on T-con board.

Zenith TV, H24F36DT
Reason for Service: Remote will not work
Solution: Replacing eeprom, IC6001, fixed set.

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Disassemble KitchenAid Double Wall Oven

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

The KitchenAid 30-inch double wall convection oven (model #KODE500ESS) is the focus of these tech tips.
Throughout this article are caution alerts signaling a part may be heavy, fragile or comprise unseen sharp objects.
Before beginning any appliance repair project, please remember to always unplug the unit from its power source or shut off the breakers that control the oven.

How to Remove Oven Door

Oven doors are surprisingly heavy, so be prepared when removing it from its hinges.

  • Open oven door all the way.
  • Rotate both door hinge locks toward the oven, releasing door hinges from oven, so it can be removed.
  • Close door to 45-degree angle; grab each side of door; and pull toward you to remove.
  • Lay oven door with handle side down on protective blanket or other soft surface.

How to Access Broil Element and Oven Sensors

  • Be careful to avoid sharp edges when removing and replacing heating elements and oven sensors.
  • Remove all oven racks to gain clear access to rear of oven.
  • Use ¼ inch nut driver to remove screws from bracket that holds  heating element to rear of oven.
  • Remove two screws that hold upper heat shield in place.
  • Carefully pull heating element away from back of oven and disconnect each wire from connector.
  • Ensure heating element wires are completely connected to  accompanying terminals.
  • Realign broil element and shield by inserting oven sensor through large opening in element bracket.
  • Realign smaller front shield and fasten in place with two screws previously removed.
  • Replace rear bracket screws.
  • With ¼ inch nut driver, remove screws that hold oven sensor bracket in place.
  • Gently pull sensor toward you until you see wire connector. (Avoid allowing wire to slip through rear panel or  double oven will have to be pulled out of  cabinet to correct.)
  • Disconnect wire connector.
  • When installing new sensor, remember to first connect wires to connector.
  • Feed wire through rear panel and secure sensor bracket with screws.
  • After reconnecting element and sensor, replace oven racks.

How to Disassemble Oven Door

One of the main reasons to disassemble the oven door is to replace damaged door hinges.

  • Use Philips screwdriver to remove four screws securing inner door frame to outer door assembly.
  • Remove frame, being mindful of sharp edges.
  • If replacing door hinge, lift window pack from outer door assembly. Remove two screws that secure hinge, as well as middle screws holding window pack bracket.
  • With screws removed, slide out old hinge assembly.
  • Install new door hinge by sliding assembly into outer door frame.
  • Replace screws and tighten.
  • Reassemble door by placing window pack in outer door assembly. Ensure engraved notations are visible.
  • Realign inner door frame on outer door assembly.
  • Replace and tighten four screws on door assembly with shorter screws inserted into frame bottom.
  • Reinstall door by sliding door hinges into designated hinge slots at 45-degree angle.
  • Lower door to fully open position and rotate hinge locks forward.

How to Remove and Replace Damaged Control Panel

  • Remove four screws, two on each side, holding oven frame to cabinet.
  • With help, slide oven about 4 inches out from cabinet.
  • With ¼ inch nut driver, remove two screws, one on each side, to remove control panel mounting brackets.
  • Remove four screws that secure panel assembly.
  • Lift control panel up to remove, being careful of sharp edges.
  • Disconnect  communication wire and ground wire from control panel.
  • Install new control panel by connecting communication wire and ground wire to user interface board.
  • Align control panel to frame and replace four screws that secure panel to mounting bracket.
  • Realign mounting bracket and secure with two screws.
  • Slide oven back into cabinet.
  • Ensure side trim pieces are in place and secure oven frame to cabinet.

How to Access Upper and Lower Thermostat and Cooling Fan

One of the signs that an oven has a blown or damaged thermostat is the oven is not heating correctly. Unfortunately, the entire double oven must be removed to access the thermostat.

  • Remove both oven doors as outlined above.
  • Remove bottom vent and oven racks.
  • Remove wall frame.
  • With help, remove entire oven from cabinet and lay on cardboard, blanket or something to protect the floor.
  • Use ¼ inch nut driver to remove both rear access panels, being careful to avoid any sharp edges.
  • To access lower thermostat, remove cooling fan blower first.
  • Remove blower fan access panel and disconnect baking element wires.
  • Disconnect power cable from blower fan assembly, remove fan assembly and set aside.
  • Use ¼ inch box wrench to remove bracket screws holding thermostat in place.
  • Use piece of tape to help indicate thermostat wire orientation. It does matter which wire goes to which terminal.
  • Attach wires to new thermostat and place where old thermostat was located. Tighten thermostat in place with screws previously removed.
  • Reposition cooling blower fan assembly on brackets and tighten screws.
  • Reconnect power wire.
  • Button up access plate.
  • Remember to reconnect bake element wires.
  • Replace rear access panel.
  • With help, lift and slide double oven back into cabinet.
  • Button up frame with screws previously removed.

Please note that you must access the rear panels if you want to replace a heating element, thermostat, or cooling blower fan assembly.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

CE Tech Tips — February 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 Hitachi TV,  42HDS52A
Reason for Service: Low sensitivity, short range of remote
Solution: Check remote batteries first. If that doesn’t resolve, replace LED/IR receiver:  X480310. 

Insignia TV, NS-LCD37HD
Reason for Service: Solarized picture
Solution:  Found bad AS15 on T-Con board and replaced. 

Magnavox TV,  RPK712AK03  (P1)
Reason for Service: Vertical is collapsed.
Solution: Check the following: IC750, vertical chip, R445, should be 1 ohm/ half W., and C556, C558. 

Mitsubishi TV, WD65732
Reason for Service: At plug in, green front LED flashes continually and set won’t start.
Solution: Replacing DM board fixed this set. 

Philips TV, 50PF7220A/37
Reason for Service: Set starts for a second then shuts down with red flashing LED
Solution: Found two bad caps on power supply board: C8059 & C8060, both 3300uF/10V.

RCA TV, L46WD22YX5
Reason for Service:  No analog channels or audio, but digital channels okay
Solution: Found open fuse, 1C33 on main board. Replace with #275819. 

Samsung TV,  LNT4671FX/XAA
Reason for Service: Set takes a long time to come on, and there are click sounds.
Solution: Bad caps in the power supply: check CB850, 1000uF/10V.

Vizio TV, VX37LHDTV10A
Reason for Service: Set won’t start; logo stays amber
Solution: Found defective AMC regulator, U8.  Replacing it fixed the set.

Zenith TV, module 9-1909
Reason for Service: One color missing
Solution: Check 120k ohm resistors 5103, 5110 and 5119 on CRT board.  Then, check transistors on the main: Q2200, Q2201, Q2202.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CE Tech Tips — January 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

Emerson TV,  LC501EM3
Reason for Service: At power on, LED flashes and relay clicks.  This keeps repeating, but set doesn’t come on.
Solution: Touch pad controls were bad; replace to fix the set.

LG TV, 37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Set turns on, then shuts down. Has backlight.
Solution: Found bad cap on power board:  C852, 470uF/10V.

Mits TV,  WD-65738
Reason for Service: Set starts to boot normally, then shuts down with 3-6 error.
Solution: Clean dust from exhaust fans and surrounding area, then check that fans are spinning freely.

Panasonic TV,  TCP50C1
Reason for Service: One blink error
Solution: If there is 5V at pin 9 of connector P25/A25, replace A main board.  If there is no 5V,  check for continuity between pin 9 of Connector P25 and pin 5 of connector P7 on P board.  If not, replace P board.

Polaroid TV, TDA3211C
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Check and replace as necessary: two 10uF, 450V caps and D10 all in the power supply.

Samsung TV, LN22B360C5D
Reason for Service: When trying to turn on set, standby light begins blinking continuously, and set never starts.
Solution: Problem on SMPS/IP board.

Sony TV, KDL-55HX800
Reason for Service: Set comes on, then shuts down.  Has 7 blink error code.
Solution: The code indicates bad HLR board or BAL board. Do this: Disconnect power.  Unplug HLR board and plug set back in and turn on.  Test to see if set now works properly and does not shut down. If so, replace HLR board.  If set does not work properly after this test, replace BAL board.

Toshiba TV, 50H72
Reason for Service:  White screen with lines across
Solution: Found cold solder on black wire that feeds the convergence ICs. Repaired solder, replaced fuse F850 (5A) and both STK392-110 ICs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Repair Leaking GE Washer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

While some malfunctions are more concerning than others, most of them can be easily fixed with a little guidance. To help get you started, we’ve compiled a list of some of the most common maintenance mistakes and component failures which often lead to a leaky washer.

Maintenance Tips

  • Excessive vibrations brought on by an unbalanced washer can cause water to spill out of an appliance as the machine agitates clothing. To determine whether or not a washer is balanced, place a leveler on the main top. If the appliance turns out to be unbalanced, simply correct the problem by adjusting its legs. Some floors though may be too unlevel to solve the issue. If the issue is not addressed, and the washer continues to vibrate uncontrollably, other appliance components may get damaged.
  • Leaks located at the back of the washer can indicate a loose hose connection. Before inspecting the hoses, turn off the appliance’s water
    supply, and pull it machine away from the wall. Start investigating the leak by examining the drain hose, which runs from the drain port on the washer to the standpipe or laundry tub. If either side of the hose feels loose, correct the issue. Or, if they are both intact, move on to the inlet hoses. The machine’s hot and cold inlet hoses run from the inlet valve on the washer to the hot and cold faucets on the laundry room wall. If one or more of the connections are loose, tighten them to stop the leak.
  • Washers are designed to handle a certain amount of detergent. When that amount is continuously surpassed, the soap residue leftover will end up clogging the overflow tube, resulting in puddles on the floor. Stick to the detergent recommendations in the owner’s manual to resolve any type of soap overuse.

                                       GE washer model ​WCSR2080BCC

Appliance Repair Tips

Unplug the appliance and turn off its water supply before starting any repairs. Safety goggles and gloves are needed to protect hands and eyes from sharp objects as you remove and replace damaged components.

The Tub-to-Pump Hose

When the washer tub drains, water travels through the tub-to-pump hose. As an appliance ages, the hose can crack, causing water to leak out. Replacing the damaged tub-to-pump hose is not complicated and should only take a little over an hour.

How to Replace the Tub-to-Pump Hose in Your GE Washer

  1. To gain access to the tub-to-pump hose, remove the washer’s front panel. At the left and right corners of the washer, insert a putty knife in between the main top and the front panel. Slide the putty knife toward the center of the appliance. When the knife makes contact with a locking tab, push down to release the mechanism. Once both tabs are disengaged, tip the front panel back, and take it off the washer.
  2. The tub-to-pump hose can be found in the washer’s lower right corner. Before disconnecting it, place a towel in the area underneath the component. Use pliers to loosen and slide the lower clamp up the hose. Then, pull the bottom half of the hose off the drain pump. A small amount of water is likely to come out of the hose, which should be caught with the towel. Next, use a nut driver to unthread the screw securing the upper hose clamp. Once the clamp is loose, disconnect the top end of the hose from the outer tub. Now the damaged tub-to-pump hose can be removed from the washing machine.
  3. Before discarding the old hose, take the top and bottom clamps off the part so they can be attached to the new drain hose.
  4. Slide the old clamps onto the new tub-to-pump hose. With both clamps attached, go to the washer and install the top end of the hose to the outer tub. Secure the connection by tightening the clamp screw with the nut driver. Then, attach the lower end of the hose to the pump. Using pliers, slide the clamp down the hose to secure the link between the drain pump and the hose.
  5. To complete the repair, reinstall the washer’s front panel. After the appliance is reassembled, plug it in and turn on its water supply. Test the new tub-to-pump hose by washing a load of laundry. If the washer doesn’t leak, the new component resolved the issue.

The Drain Pump

If the washer is leaking during the wash cycle or the drain cycle, there is a good chance it has a faulty drain pump. The drain pump pulls water from the washer tub and pushes it out of the appliance through the outlet hose. If the pump is cracked, water will leak onto the laundry room floor.

How to Replace GE Washer Drain Pump

  1. Start repair by taking off the washer’s front panel. In between the appliance’s main top and front panel are two locking tabs: one is near the right corner and the other is near the left corner. To disengage the tabs, slide a putty knife between the panels and press down. After both tabs are released, lift the front panel up and off the washer.
  2. Locate the drain pump and place a towel underneath it to catch any water that may come out during the repair. Next, disconnect the wire harnesses running to the drain pump. Then, use pliers to loosen the clamps securing the outlet and inlet drain hoses to the pump, and pull the hoses off the drain pump valves. With a socket wrench, unthread the screws holding the pump’s mounting plate to the bottom of the washer. Once the screws are removed, pull the damaged drain pump out of the appliance.
  3. To install the new drain pump, attach its mounting plate to the bottom of the washer. After the drain pump is in place, reconnect the wire harnesses and the outlet and inlet drain hoses. Make sure the hoses are attached properly and the clamps are securely linking the hoses to the pump valves.
  4. With the new drain hose successfully connected, reinstall the washer’s front panel. Once the panel is reattached, plug the appliance back in and turn on the water supply. To ensure the repair worked, test out the machine by running a wash cycle.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

How to Replace Main Control Board in Whirlpool Double Oven

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If both the bottom and top units of a double oven are not working, this should provide a clue as to which component needs to be replaced.

Tools Needed

  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Philips Head Screwdriver

Safety First

Unplug the oven from its power supply before beginning any work.

Symptoms

Check for the following to help diagnose the issue:

  • The bake and broil heating elements don’t work but test positive for continuity, proving there is a continuous electrical path.
  • The power source is delivering 240 volts of alternating current.
  • The bake and broil heating element connection wires show no signs of burn marks or damage.
  • Testing for continuity, the thermal fuse shows a continuous electrical path is present.
  • Check schematic and confirm ohms for the thermostat and heat sensor and test both for the correct amount.

If the power supply, heating elements, thermostat, fuse and heat sensor are operating correctly, it’s a good possibility that the main control board is malfunctioning and will need to be replaced. Since the thermal fuse is functioning properly, this symptom should convey that the control board is getting power but is incapable of operating the oven.

To repair, first remove the door to the lower oven:

  • Open lower oven door and find the hinges.
  • Release each hinge by pulling back on the hinge locks.
  • Position the door until it is about 45 degrees to the floor; lift it off its hinges; and set aside. (Be aware that oven doors are heavy!)

Remove the Cosmetic Molding

  • Remove the two bottom screws that hold molding in place.
  • Open the top door, locate and remove two more screws that hold the molding.
  • Remove the two screws that hold the bottom decorative molding in position.
  • Carefully remove all molding and set aside.
    Pro Tip: Keep track of screws by placing in a small jar.

Access the Main Control Board

  • Remove the four mounting screws located on the oven frame.
  • Pull the oven out slightly, about 3-4 inches, to gain access to the two control board mounting screws: two on the right side and two on the left.
  • Open the top oven door and grab the control board on each side. Pull it toward you and then pull up. You now have access to the control board with its menagerie of wire harnesses you will need to remove. However, there are few more steps prior to removing these wires.

Remove the Old Control Board

  • Carefully disconnect the ribbon cable that connects the touchpad to the main control board. This is the ribbon that communicates oven control actions to the other components. Be careful not to damage any pins as you remove it. Squeeze inward on the outer edges of the cable and pull the connection away from the board.
  • Remove four Philips screws that hold the board in position on the touchpad bracket.  Don’t forget to disconnect the grounding wire.
  • Place the touchpad on a flat workable surface.

Install the New Control Board

  • Line up the new control board with the screw holes on the touchpad.
  • Thread the ribbon cable through a slot located on the control board and gently push the cable into its accompanying tabs.
  • Reinstall the four Philips screws that hold the control board to the touchpad frame.
  • Although each wire harness is keyed to fit only one connection on the main board, it is wise to snap a picture of the old control board as there are at least two spade connectors that look alike, and you want to make sure they are correctly
    connected.
  • Remove the wire harnesses from the old main control board.
  • When disconnecting wire harnesses from any component, grip the connector gently and pull. Never remove the connectors by pulling on the wires as this may cause a wire to come loose in the connection.
  • The black connectors indicate a tighter fit, and you may need a set of pliers to provide additional leverage to help release the connection.
  • After removing all connections, remove the sub control board located on the left end of the old control board. The new control board does not come equipped with one.
  • Find the clip that holds the sub control board in place. Depress the clip and pull the board up to remove.
  • Now, install the sub-board on the new control board. Depress the clip, slide the board into place and release the clip to secure. That’s all there is to it.

Install Wire Harnesses to New Control Board

  • One technique used by technicians is to reconnect the ground wire first to help prevent accidentally dropping the new control board.
  • Reconnect the spade connections first. Here is where the picture taken previously should help. You need to ensure that these two connections return to the correct tabs.
  • Continue by connecting all other wire harnesses that are keyed to connect in one connection only.
  • Another technique is to simply work in reverse of the way you removed the connections.
  • Also, it may be possible to use the top oven cover to assist you in balancing the control board.

Replace the New Control Panel

  • The control panel has notched openings that slide over tabs located on the front of the oven.
  • Once you feel the panel is notched in. push it down and forward slightly and feel it click into place.
  • Secure in place with the Philips screws: there is no need to over tighten. Over tightening will sometimes strip or break softer screws.

Final Steps

  • Push the oven back in place and secure with four Philips mounting screws. You should use a drill gun on these screws for additional torque. But still, do not over tighten.
  • Reinstall the bottom decorative molding.
  • Reinstall the frame molding.
  • Reinstall the lower oven door. Place the door hinges in the hinge opening. Lift up and open to a 90-degree position. Slide the hinge covers over the hinges.
  • Close the door.
  • Reconnect the power.
  • Test the touchpad functions.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

CE Tech Tips — December 2018

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

Panasonic TV,  TCL42E3
Reason for Service:  Won’t come on, one blink error code
Solution: LEDs were coming on, but only for a second.  Replaced LED driver board.

Toshiba TV,  50H72
Reason for Service: Dead & F470 blown
Solution:  Replacing C884 and F470 fixed the set.

LG TV,  37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Immediate shutdown after powering on
Solution: IC851 in the power supply was bad.  SM #L6910.

Audiovox TV VE705, 7” LCD
Reason for Service: Dead set, no standby
Solution: Found bad cap in power supply, 1000uF/25V.

Hitachi TV,  60SDX88B
Reason for Service: Black rectangular bar floating up screen on all inputs; audio low and set may shut down.
Solution: Found and replaced open cap, CN06,  10uF/50V.

Westinghouse TV, TX-47F430S
Reason for Service: Set won’t turn on
Solution: Found bad capacitor on main board.  TC51,  470uF/16V

Samsung TV,  PN50A550
Reason for Service: Relays click when set plugged in. After few seconds, power shuts off then back on.
Solution: Replaced C102, 47uF/6.3V.  If still not working, replace DC to DC converter, MP2363DN.

Zenith TV,  9-1998 module
Reason for Service:  There was vertical foldover when brightness and contrast turned up.
Solution: Found and replaced leaky cap,  CX3233,  47uF/160V