Author - wpengine

Fixing Common Maytag Freezer Issues

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Maytag is a popular home appliance brand that makes a range of freezer units. This tech tip covers troubleshooting for different issues, including units not freezing, clicking sounds,  running all the time and leaking water.

Troubleshooting applies to these Maytag freezer models:

MRT311FFFE

MRT711SMFZ

MFW2055FRZ

MFF2055FRZ

MFF2558FEZ

MRT118FFFE

MSS25C4MGB

MFC2062FEZ

MSC21C6MFZ

MBF2258FEZ

MBF1958FEZ

MFI2570FEB

MFI2269FRB

MFT2772HEZ

MSS25N4MKZ

MFF2258FEZ


Not Freezing

Not freezing is a common issue that often only requires a simple fix instead of replacing the entire unit.

Here’s what to do:

  1. Check condenser coils: Condenser coils are a critical component in refrigerators and freezers. They transfer heat from the refrigerant to the surrounding environment. New freezers have clean coils, but over time they can attract dust, which can affect performance. To confirm coils are clean, turn off the unit, pull it out from the wall, and visually inspect. If they’re dirty, use a vacuum to remove the dust. Please note that freezers with internal coils do not require cleaning.
  2. Check evaporator fan motor: This device passes air over the coils, making heat transfer more efficient. When the motor stops working, the freezer will struggle to achieve freezing temperatures. Typically when the freezer door is opened, a micro-switch automatically switches off the fan so it doesn’t operate. To check that it’s working properly, find the micro-switch, press it, and see if the fan moves. If it doesn’t, contact a Maytag engineer to fit a replacement – part numbers WP2315539, WPW10189703, W11024089, WPW1012855, WPW10514110, and WP3-60336-001.
  3. Check the start relay: If the start relay isn’t operating correctly, the compressor won’t run, and the freezer won’t cool. If you have a multi-meter at home, you can check if the start relay is malfunctioning. Remove the component from your freezer, and then place the multimeter probes on the start and run terminals. If the unit smells burned or you can’t achieve continuity, order a replacement part.

Runs Constantly

There are many reasons why your Maytag freezer might be running all the time. Check these potential solutions:

  1. Issues with temperature control thermostat
    • Rotate control thermostat from lowest to highest setting. If you hear an audible click, the thermostat is unlikely the source of the problem.
    • If there is no click, connect the thermostat to a multimeter to test for continuity. Lack of continuity indicates a defective part.
  2. Issues with defrost timer
    • If the defrost timer doesn’t switch on, frost will accumulate on the evaporator coils, causing them to stop functioning correctly.
    • To check the defrost time, turn it using a screwdriver, and listen for a click. This should cause the compressor and fans to switch off and the coil heater to switch on.
    • If the heater switches on and defrosts the coils, the timer is faulty.
  3. Dirty condenser coils
    • On most freezers, condenser coils are inside the freezer walls and don’t require cleaning. However, if they are at the back of the unit, be sure to remove dust every 6-12 months.
    • Pull the freezer away from the wall to provide access to the coils.
    • Vacuum or use a duster.

Leaking Water

Occasionally, the freezer may leak water which usually means the defrost drain is clogged or frozen. During defrost cycles, water leaves the freezer through a defrost drain. However, water can freeze over the drain, causing subsequent flows to spill out of the bottom of the freezer over the floor.

To resolve this issue, do the following:

  1. Switch off the freezer and remove it from the wall (if you have a freestanding unit).
  2. Access the defrost drain.
  3. Thaw any ice using hot water, delivered via a turkey baster.
  4. If you experience this problem repeatedly, consider installing a drain heater.

Constantly Makes Clicking Sounds

Some Maytag freezers develop clicking sounds as they get older. This issue is caused by either a faulty start relay or problems with the compressor. Start relays provide power to the compressor – the unit that cools the freezer. When they start to fail, they can make a clicking sound.

Here’s the fix:

  1. Unplug the freezer from the main power supply.
  2. Locate the start relay.
  3. Unplug and remove the relay from the compressor (usually by unscrewing it).
  4. Use a multimeter to test for continuity between the start and run terminals.
  5. If it fails a continuity test or smells burnt, swap it out for a new one.

Compressors are vital components that circulate refrigerant throughout the refrigerator, via evaporator and condenser coils. When they become defective, they too can make a clicking sound.

Here’s the fix:

  1. Unplug the freezer from main power and pull it from the wall.
  2. Locate the condenser unit. It should be visible at the back of the appliance or behind a shroud.
  3. Use a multimeter to test for continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor.
  4. If the circuit is open, it means that the compressor is defective and should only be repaired by a licensed professional.

Light Not Working

Freezer lights, just like normal lights, have a limited life. If your freezer light is out, check the following:

  1. Ensure that the light bulb is burned out and not any wires or connections to it.
  2. Check the control and display board. Sometimes these can become defective, preventing power from reaching the light (though this is rare). If the indicator light is in good working order, but won’t light when you open the door, you might need a new control panel.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — January 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 57F59A
Reason for Service: Vertical distortion at bottom of picture, or Q777 has failed.
Solution: Install deflection Kit X480315. 

LG TV, 47LG50
Reason for Service: Dead, F101 open.
Solution: Found and replaced shorted mosfet in power supply, Q502.  Replacing this and fuse restored normal operation. 

Mitsubishi TV, VS6071
Reason for Service: No vertical.
Solution: Replacing vertical IC fixed set. LA7838S

Samsung TV, UN60F6350AFXZA
Reason for Service: TV will randomly cycle on and off; gets progressively worse.
Solution: Update firmware, and disconnect Wi-Fi module to see if problem goes away.  If so, replace Wi-Fi module.

Samsung TV, LN46C600F3F
Reason for Service: Set powers up with sound, but no backlight.
Solution: Found open cap in power supply, C818, 0.47uF/450V.  Replacing this fixed set.

Sony TV, KDL-26M4000
Reason for Service: Dead
Solution: Replaced cracked IC902, #670889101, and open R904.  10ohm/half W.

Toshiba TV, 46XV645U
Reason for Service: Dead, no power.
Solution: Replaced open R850 in power supply (1.8ohm/5W) and relay.  23146564X.


Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!





Dishware Still Wet After Drying in Dishwasher

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When properly functioning and using a heated dry cycle, your dishes should come out of the dishwasher spotless and dry enough to put away. There’s nothing more frustrating than water droplets dripping from newly-cleaned dishware. If this is happening, here are some common causes to check:

Dishwasher Out of Rinse Aid

Lack of rinse aid is the most probable reason for dishes to come out wet, so check this first. Rinse aid is a solution that is added with the rinse water. It helps water slide off dishware more easily. By the time the dry cycle begins, there should be less moisture on the dishes and cutlery. Rinse aid helps dry faster and remove water spots, so it’s not just a gimmick product. Without rinse aid, the heated dry cycle typically is not going to be enough to remove all the water droplets.

However, if you’ve never used rinse aid and previously dried dishes are coming out wet, you’ll need to investigate other potential reasons.

Dishwasher Overloaded

Correctly loading a dishwasher can be a true art form and lesson in organization. But when you try to cram in too many pots, pans and glassware, water can get trapped with no place to drain and heated drying will be less effective — not to mention dishes won’t get fully clean. Consider doing two separate loads or wash dishes by hand instead of overloading the machine.

Heated Dry Malfunctioning

Dishwashers have a variety of drying functions: heated dry, sanitize (high heat kills germs as well as dries dishes) or night dry (heat dries lingering condensation periodically through the wash). Regardless of which you use, they all require a working heating element. This heating element, which also heats water to the proper temperature, creates heat to dry your dishes. If it is not functioning properly, dishes will come out wet. Plus, because water is not getting heated, dishes will likely not come out as clean as normal.

The easiest way to determine if a heating element is faulty is to open the dishwasher immediately after the dry cycle ends. Dishes should be warm to the touch. If they are cold and wet, the heating element has failed. Fortunately, replacing a heating element is a very simple repair.

Faulty Vent Motor or Fan

If dishes are warm after the dry cycle, inspect the vent and motor in the door of the dishwasher. These components push out the hot, moist air circulating during drying. If the fan or motor have failed, the moist air will still vent, but not as efficiently. As such, moist air can become trapped inside and settle back on the dishes.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!

 

 

Whirlpool All-in-One Washer Dryer Not Spinning

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Issues with the drum not spinning are among the most common faults with the Smart All-In-One Washer & Dryer from Whirlpool. While this guide is primarily focused on model #WFC8090GX0, many of the following tips may provide dryer repair solutions for the following front-loading Whirlpool models too:

WED5620HW WHD5090GW
WHD560CHW CED9150GW
WGD5620HW WHD862CHC

WED6620HW WED8620HW
WED560LHW WGD8620HW
WGD6620HW WED9620HC

Common Reasons for Whirlpool Dryer Drum Not Spinning

The most likely reasons for a Whirlpool Smart All-In-One Washer & Dryer to stop spinning are:

  • Problems with power connections to drum
  • Blockage preventing spinning
  • Motherboard computer connection issues
  • Issues with drum’s drive belt and motor
  • Fallout from overheating
  • Washer & Dryer cycle not starting

When attempting to repair, first check the status of the machine via the Scan-to-Connect technology and app. In many cases, the app can use automated diagnostics to provide an error code, saving a lot of time troubleshooting. If this hasn’t helped identify the issue or you’re not using the app, the following are some typical problems:

Drive Belt Broken

Faulty drive belts are the most common reason for drums to stop spinning. The easiest way to test this is to open the drum and turn it by hand. A healthy drive belt should provide some resistance (although it should turn) as it is spun. If there is no resistance, the drive belt is the main reason the drum is not turning.

Turn off the appliance and remove the lid to see whether the belt has snapped or come loose. If the latter, simply refit to fix. However, if the drive belt comes loose a second time, further support is needed. If the drive belt has snapped, a replacement part will be needed.

Idler Pulley Faulty

When the drive belt works but there is no tension, the idler pulley may have become damaged due to wear and tear. It is located in the dryer cabinet of the unit and should spin freely when tested by hand. If it is bent, broken or damaged, it will need replacing with part 279640.

Breaker Tripped

Whirlpool electric dryers use two power breakers to work. While they are designed to trip simultaneously, it is possible for only one to trip,  leaving the unit turning on, but not functioning. Try switching off the breakers for one minute to allow the unit to reset to solve the problem.

Alternatively, in rare cases, the power supply might not be sufficient enough to help the unit function. Therefore, a replacement power cord #PT220L may solve this commonly overlooked problem.

Drum Obstructed

If the drum is obstructed, it physically won’t turn despite all other parts working. This can be caused by loose items falling out of clothing and getting caught in the unit. Complete the same manual turning test used for checking the drive belt. If the drum won’t turn at all or is particularly stiff, an obstruction is likely.

The foreign objects will usually lodge between the drum and the housing of the unit.  Needle nose pliers can help manually remove the objects before spinning the drum to check that the obstruction is fully removed.

Drum Rollers Faulty

The drum relies on several drum rollers to provide a smooth operation as it turns. With the appliance switched off and the lid open, each of the rollers should spin without resistance when turned by hand. If any of them are not spinning properly or have visible signs of severe wear, they need replacing. It is possible to purchase a replacement for the individual roller or use a kit to replace them all.

Drive Motor Overheated

When the motor used to power the spin cycle overheats, it may stop the drum from spinning entirely or it may cause an intermittent performance, which is equally problematic as laundry won’t dry. Replacing this part is usually best left to an expert.

Face Panel Buttons Aren’t Working

The digital screen on the face panel provides a convenient way to set the various modes on the washer-dryer. If you cannot start a cycle or change the settings to the right dry mode, the buttons may not be connecting to the main computer. Even when there is resistance after pushing the button, an investigation is needed.

Turning the appliance off at the breaker may reset the digital buttons to fix the issue. If this doesn’t work, unscrew the panel and check for debris or signs of worn switches.

Thermal Fuse Failed

Thermal fuses are a safety mechanism that, if blown, will stop the drum from turning. Remove the back panel and use a multimeter to run a consistency test. Replacing the thermal fuse is easy, but you need to check whether overheating is the root cause. If it is, failure to treat the issue will result in the new thermal fuse blowing very quickly.

When completing this task or any other, it’s vital to check that the drum is back in position and that the washer-dryer is level. If the issues persist a professional dryer repair service can usually get it operating again without the need to replace your entire unit.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — October 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Emerson TV, LF501EM4
Reason for Service: Dead set, no standby power light.
Solution: Removed the I/R board and found SM C4056 shorted.  Removing bad cap restored normal operation to the set.

Hitachi TV, 57F59A
Reason for Service: Changes colors, snowy picture, loss of one or more colors, all white and shuts down.
Solution: Replace signal board and make sure the firmware is updated. 

LG TV, 47LM6700
Reason for Service: Dead, 3 blink error.
Solution: Replaced a shorted D607.  MUR460

Panasonic TV, TCP42X5
Reason for Service: Dead
Fix: Replaced U203 on backside of Power board.  FAN6755UWMY.

RCA TV, LED46C45RQ
Reason for Service: Set won’t power up.
Solution: Replacing the EEPROM fixed the set.  U16

Samsung TV, PN64E8000GFXZA
Reason for Service: Dead set, fuse blown.
Solution: Repaired power board by replacing QS802 & QS804.  Examine whole board for bad solder and resolder as necessary.

Vizio TV, E390-A1
Reason for Service: LED backlights will not come on.
Solution: Replacing IC U403 fixed the set.

Zenith, 9-1302 module
Reason for Service: Dead, nothing.
Solution: Resoldered jumper next to Elect Cap CX3452.  Fixed set.

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!





Fixing Problems with Hotpoint Freezers

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

To the non-technical person, freezers seem like complicated units capable of doing something quite extraordinary – lowering temperatures below that of the surrounding. Happily, though, they work on elementary principles. Hotpoint freezer repair usually involves replacing broken or defective parts or doing simple troubleshooting.

This guide will cover the following Hotpoint freezer models and related products from the brand:

HQ9 B1L

HQ9 E1L

H9T 921T KS H

H7T 911T KS H

H7T 911T MX H

H7T 911A KS H AQUA

H7T 911A MX H AQUA

H5T 811I MX H

LAL85 FF1I W WTD.1

HM 7030 E C AA O3.1

DC 85 N1 G

DC 85 N1 W

H3T 811I OX

H3T 811I W

H8 A1E SB UK.1

H8 A1E W UK.1

H8 A1E SB WTD UK.1

FFU4D.1 K

 

Common Reasons for Hotpoint Freezer to Stop Working Properly

Freezers can stop freezing (or generate readouts that make it appear as though they’ve stopped working), for many reasons, including:

  • Dirty condenser coils
  • Frosted over coils
  • Main control board malfunction
  • Defective temperature control thermostat
  • Faulty user control board
  • Defective compressor unit
  • Sealed system leak
  • Start relay problems
  • Evaporator motor fan issues

Dirty Condenser Coils

Hotpoint makes freezers with both external and internal condenser coils. The interior models shouldn’t require regular cleaning since the shroud of the unit prevents accumulation of dirt and grime. However, exterior types often collect dust, lowering their capacity to dissipate heat and reduce interior temperatures. If freezer coils look dirty, unplug the unit and wipe off any dust with a duster or cloth. If they feel sticky or greasy, use a damp sponge with a decreaser to remove scum.

Frosted Over Evaporator Coils

Sometimes freezer evaporator coils can frost over. This usually occurs when there is a problem with the defroster heater – a device that prevents buildup of frozen water on the surface of coils.

coming soonHook the defroster heater up to a multimeter and check for continuity. The current flow through the unit should be continuous while the freezer unit is switched on. Lack of continuity could indicate problems with electrical connections, fuses, switches and wiring elsewhere in the appliance.

If continuity is an issue, the entire defrost heater unit may need to be replaced.

Main Control Board Malfunction

Main control boards on Hotpoint freezers provide all circuitry required to adjust temperatures and settings. The brand supplies an extensive range of different boards, depending on model.

Mainboard issues can cause a freezer to stop freezing, but such problems are uncommon. If other potential issues have been ruled out, try replacing the mainboard to see if it fixes the problem.

Defective Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat measures temperature inside the freezer to change voltage supplied to the condenser fan motor, evaporator fan motor and compressor. When thermostats malfunction, they can’t assess temperatures accurately and send instructions to the components to chill the freezer to the required level.

If a defective thermostat is suspected, turn it from the lowest setting to the highest. On Hotpoint models, you should hear a click as components in the rest of the appliance kick into action.

If you don’t hear any sound or see the machine responding, take a multimeter and test the thermostat for continuity. If the thermostat doesn’t have continuity, it should be replaced.

Defective Compressor Unit

Compressors are just pumps that circulate refrigerant through the condenser and evaporator coils. When they stop working, heat exchange comes to a halt, and freezers can’t cool down.

Compressors can fail on modern Hotpoint machines, though this is rare. Often, other defective parts are causing the issue. Before replacing or repairing the compressor, check other components such as the evaporator and condenser coils and evaporator fan motor.

If those components appear to be working well, then test the compressor itself by attaching a multimeter to the electrical connector pins on either side. If you detect an open circuit, then the compressor is probably defective and should be replaced. (Please note that only licensed technicians should replace compressors.)

Sealed System Leak

If the unit freezes on the top shelf but nowhere else, there may be a sealed system leak. Replacing a sealed system usually costs more than the freezer unit itself, making repair cost-prohibitive.

Start Relay Problems

The freezer start relay is a device that switches the compressor on and off. When it doesn’t work correctly, it doesn’t supply energy to the compressor in sufficient quantities or at the right time. If the compressor doesn’t work, the freezer won’t cool at all.

If an issue with the start relay is suspected, unplug the freezer from the mains and detach it from the compressor. As with other electrical components described above, use a multimeter to test for continuity between both terminals on the relay. Also, smell the unit; if there’s a burning odor, it needs to be replaced.

Problems With Evaporator Motor Fan

Evaporator motor fans are critical for heat exchange, which makes refrigeration possible. Fans circulate air through the coils in the freezer, removing excess heat.

Most Hotpoint models disengage the evaporator motor fan when the door is opened. If there’s a problem with the fan, try pressing the freezer door microswitch that operates the fan and keep the door open. The freezer should detect a rise in temperature and prompt the fan to start spinning. If it doesn’t respond, you may need to replace it.

Please note that readouts on the user display board may not be accurate if sensors or internal circuits have failed.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — September 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 60SX2K
Reason for Service: Red convergence no good, can’t adjust.
Fix: Replaced IC-1301 and checked R1303, R1304, R1313, R1314.

LG TV, 32LC70
Reason for Service: Turns on and off intermittently.
Solution: Replacing cable from power supply to the main fixed set. EAD60958303

LG TV, 32LG3DC
Reason for Service: No picture, sounds works intermittently.
Solution: Replacing Q709 fixed set.

Pioneer TV, PRO506PU and Media Receiver, PROR06U
Reason for Service: Shuts down with 12 blink error on media receiver.
Solution: From Pioneer: Replace MR DTB Assy in media receiver.  #-AWE1305

Samsung TV, UN40C5000QF
Reason for Service: Set won’t start, 6 blink error code.
Solution: Replaced audio IC1202 on main board.

Samsung TV, HPS5073X
Reason for Service: If set is cool, takes longer and longer to turn on – as much as 15 minutes.
Solution: Replaced caps in power supply. CS856, CS846

Sylvania TV, LD320SS1
Reason for Service: While watching set, started flashing colored screens, couldn’t stop even by unplugging. When set started up again, had same problem: Test mode.
Solution: With set on, press left arrow then right arrow on the remote to exit.  Some sets you have to press up arrow then down arrow.





CE Tech Tips –August 2020

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hisense TV, 48H5
Reason for Service: Dead
Solution: Found couple of shorted diodes on power board, replaced whole power board.

Hitachi TV, 53SDX01B
Reason for Service: HV comes up, then set shuts down
Solution: Pin 1 of ip01 was 0 volts because dp14 was leaky. Replacing fixed set.

Magnavox TV, 47MF437B
Reason for Service: At power on, set chirps but will not start.
Solution: Replaced several bulged caps and Z902 and Z904 were defective.  P6KE120A.  Replacing these fixed the set.

Philips TV, 46PFL3908/F7
Reason for Service: Erratic operation
Solution: Bulletin: Check pin 4 of CN3105 on digital main board for 3.3 V with no keys on function board pressed. If voltage less than 3.3V, unplug keyboard from IR board.  If voltage returns to 3.3V, replace function board. If it does not, unplug CN3105.  If voltage returns to 3.3V, replace IR board. If problem continues, replace digital main board.

Samsung TV, LN40A500T1FXZA
Reason for Service: Power cycles with audible screech sound
Solution: Replaced C102.  47uF/6.3V ceramic, surface mount, blue box.

Toshiba TV, 46XV640U
Reason for Service: No video or OSD, but audio and backlights work
Solution: Found bad SM cap on main board,  C606, 22uF/16V.

Westinghouse TV, EW32S5KW
Reason for Service: Cycling red, green, blue, black. Can’t turn set off.
Solution: Set in test mode.  Press Exit on original remote.




Troubleshooting Cooling Issues with GE Refrigerators

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If your GE refrigerator is currently failing to cool food properly, it’s vital that you find a quick solution. This tech tip will help diagnose and fix various temperature problems.

While GE Appliances have a solid reputation for making some of the best refrigerators on the market — many of which can last for up to 20 years — cooling issues are among the most common problems. It’s a serious issue that can impact the shelf life of food and become a health hazard. This tip covers the following GE models:

GNE27JYMFS

GNE27JSMSS

GNE27JMMES

GNE27JGMWW

GNE27JGMBB

GNE25JSKSS

GNE25JMKES

GWE19JMLES

GNE25JGKBB

GWE19JSLSS

GNE25JGKWW

GWE19JGLWW

GWE19JGLBB

While the function of the refrigerator is fairly simplistic, it relies on several parts to consistently maintain the correct temperature. Several signs that a GE fridge isn’t working properly include:

  • Excessive condensation
  • Motor runs hot
  • Fridge making loud sounds
  • Food spoils much quicker than it should
  • Food is room temperature to touch

Following are some of refrigerator components to check as they are leading causes of cooling problems.

Power Supply

A lack of power is the easiest fault to identify, but it is surprisingly easy to ignore unless you tend to open the refrigerator at night. The easiest way to tell whether the refrigerator is receiving power is to open the door – if the light turns on, power is good.

If the power is not on, there are several potential solutions. Try plugging the unit into another socket or use a multimeter to check the current. Alternatively, you may need to change the plug fuse or replace the plug altogether.

Thermostat Dials

The refrigerator thermostat was probably initially set to between 35°F and 37°F. However, it’s very easy to knock the dial without realizing it. The dial for all modern GE models is located inside the fridge compartment, while fridge-freezer units use a dual temperature dial.

For dual temperature dials, the left dial is for the freezer, and the right is for the refrigerator. The dial runs from 1 (the warmest) to 9 (the coolest); switching the dial to 0 will turn off the cooling. Keep in mind it takes 24 hours after installation for the cooling unit to fully reach a new setting.

Faulty Temp Sensor

Setting the thermostat to the desired level won’t achieve much if the fridge’s computer fails to receive the right data. The thermistor, otherwise known as the temperature sensor, is responsible for detecting the temperature and sending the necessary info to the control board.

If the temperature does not seem to cool even after changing the temperature dial, you may need to invest in a new thermistor (part WR55X10025) to correct the issue. When fitting this new part, it’s vital to first disconnect the power supply from the unit. 

Fan Faults

The condenser fan is another key component for managing temperature. It sucks air through the front grille before circulating through condenser coils and over the compressor. One of the simplest troubleshooting steps is to defrost the fridge compartment. This will free up blades that were immobilized by ice. If this does not work, it may be necessary to purchase a new fan motor. The fan is located toward the floor at the back of the unit.

Seals & Level

The magnetic door seals, otherwise known as door gaskets, can also cause major problems by allowing cool air from inside the fridge to escape. Aside from affecting temperature inside the refrigerator, it forces the condenser fan to work even harder, which jacks up utility bills and is a more expensive repair.

Seals can become damaged over time, especially if the door is opened and shut constantly. Also, cold air can escape from fridges not sitting level on the floor. Using a spirit level to check the positioning of the fridge is key, and it needs proper ventilation space too.

Additional Faults

Other common problems that can affect cooling include:  clogged coils, cooling unit out of coolant or frost on the evaporator coils. Issues with the start capacity and start relay can also be at fault.

Problems with the main control board, such as signals to it, can cause a loss or reduction of cooling as well. In some cases, problems with freezer parts like the ice maker can actually impact fridge cooling.

When Troubleshooting Fails

Before trying to troubleshoot potential problems, be aware that modern GE appliances come equipped with a QR code and serial tag (located inside the fridge toward the top corner), which can be scanned to direct you to a troubleshooting page on GE’s website  for the exact model. Depending on the age of your product, it may also still be covered by warranty.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

Troubleshooting Samsung Flexwash

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

Fixing Problems with Samsung FlexWash Washing Machine

Trouble with a Samsung Flexwash washer?  Unfortunately, even the best clothes washers can suffer from faults or wear and tear. Instead of rushing to buy another washing machine, first try troubleshooting to potentially repair the unit and save time, money and hassle.

Depending the problem, you may still require a professional washing machine service. Nevertheless, an accurate diagnosis is the first step to repair. Following are some Samsung FlexWash troubleshooting tips that will hopefully help guide you to the right fix.

Washing Machine Won’t Turn On

When the FlexWash washer won’t even turn on, try these steps:

  • Confirm power outlet is gaining power by plugging something else into it. If the outlet is not producing power, check the home circuit fuse box.
  • Ensure power cord is working by using a multimeter unit. If the cord is dead, it must be replaced.
  • Test the door lock. This is the part that keeps the washer door shut during operation. If it’s not working properly and fails to latch, it will need to be replaced as the washer will not power on unless the door is securely closed.

Screen Shows Error Message

When the Samsung FlexWash onboard computer senses a problem, the machine won’t operate. In some cases, though, the washer is actually functioning properly. Try these steps to confirm an issue:

  • Unplug washer from power outlet for at least 10 minutes.
  • Turn power back on.
  • If it powers on, run test wash without any clothes or detergent.

These measures won’t always clear the two-character error code. However, if the error was caused by a simple mistake like the door not being shut firmly, this can help avoid unnecessary fixes.

Drum Won’t Spin

The FlexWash uses a direct drive motor without belts or gears, which means there are fewer components that can fail. While this does promote greater durability, the Samsung FlexWash can still have drum issues — the bearings may have rusted due to water
damage or there could be a blockage.

If the drum won’t spin, try to manually turn it by hand. If it feels tighter than it should, the added resistance may be due to a blockage. If you can hear something rattle in the drum, it could be a coin or other small item. Remove the back and lid off the machine to find what could be causing the issue. At the same time, check the bearings, which are located around the outer circumference of the drum.

The Door Won’t Open

If the door won’t open, there may be a blockage in the drainage filter. Alternatively, the FlexWash’s pump may have failed and the machine will need to be drained manually before the door can reopen. To do this, remove the drain hose and place it into a bucket or sink,
enabling gravity to drain the water out.

When a manual drain fails to fix the issue, the door lock is the next most likely source of problems. Remove the top part and EZ Drawer Dispenser before releasing the lock from inside. In most cases, a new door lock is required. However, it may be necessary to replace the
entire door, which is why the entire mechanism should be inspected first.

Washer Won’t Fill Correctly

The Samsung FlexWash is designed to handle large loads in minimal time. Achieving this requires a steady intake of water. If the washer isn’t filling up to the desired levels, try the following:

  • Confirm water valves for both hot and cold water are fully opened.
  • Ensure water supply is set to at least 20 psi.

If neither of these steps work, it’s likely time to call a professional technician.

It should be noted that the Samsung FlexWash is equipped with smart technology and is WiFi-enabled. Therefore, the Samsung SmartCare app can often diagnose issues before they are even noticed. Pay attention to the codes supplied and consult the owner’s manual to learn more.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!