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**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If it wasn’t for your Whirlpool oven model WFG320M0BW, your family wouldn’t enjoy all those delicious meals you make for them. Unfortunately, the more use your oven gets, the more wear and tear its components endure. One of the most common
oven malfunctions failing to heat. Diagnosing and fixing an oven that is producing little to no heat is a repair you can probably handle on your own. To help you troubleshoot a non-heating oven, here’s a list of components known to affect heating:

Safety Reminder: Always unplug an appliance before starting a repair. If you’re working with a gas oven, turn off the gas supply valve. Always wear work gloves and safety goggles when fixing a malfunctioning appliance.

Check Your Gas Supply
Before inspecting any other components in your oven, test the appliance gas supply. If your oven isn’t receiving gas, it won’t be able to heat up. To check the gas supply, simply turn on a cooktop burner. If the burner ignites, gas is entering the appliance. If the burner stays unlit, pull the range away from the wall to ensure the gas cutoff valve is open. Once you confirm the valve is in the open position, contact your gas provider to find out why no gas is coming from the supply valve.

Oven Igniter
The oven igniter should produce enough heat to open the gas valve and ignite gas entering the appliance. Over time, the igniter can weaken, meaning it will take longer to heat up. If the igniter glows for over a minute without a flame igniting, it’s no longer functioning properly.

How to Replace the Oven Igniter in Your Whirlpool Oven

1. Start the repair by removing the lower access panel from the back of the range. Once the panel is off, pull apart the igniter and gas safety valve wire harnesses.
2. Open the oven door, and take out the racks. Remove the oven’s lower access panel by lifting the back up first, and then sliding the panel toward the front of the oven.
3. The oven igniter is located on the side of the burner tube, which runs through the middle of the oven cavity. To remove the faulty oven igniter, detach the burner tube and take it out. To do so, simply unthread the mounting screws securing it to the inside of the oven. Once the burner tube is free, pull it and the oven igniter out of the oven cavity.
4. Place the burner tube on a flat solid surface, and remove the screws securing the defective oven igniter to the burner tube.
5. Align the new oven igniter with the mounting bracket on the burner tube. Secure the igniter with screws.
6. Go back to the range and reinstall the burner tube. Push the igniter wires through the opening on the oven’s rear wall. Reinsert the oven’s lower access panel, and place the oven racks back in the appliance.
7. At the back of the appliance, reconnect the igniter wire harness with the gas safety valve harness. Replace the lower access panel and secure it with the four screws removed earlier.
8. Plug the appliance back in, and turn on the gas supply valve. Set oven to preheat and wait for it to warm up to determine if the new oven igniter solved the heating problem.

The Oven Sensor Assembly
The oven sensor and the oven control board work as a team to measure and regulate oven temperature. The sensor detects the temperature inside the oven cavity. If it is defective, the oven will not heat at all or the sensor accuracy will be off by 50 degrees or more.

How to Replace Whirlpool Oven Sensor 

1. At the back of the oven, disconnect the sensor wire harness. Unthread the two screws securing the oven sensor to the range’s rear panel.
2. Once the screws are removed, slide the sensor out of the opening at the back of the oven.
3. Insert the new oven sensor into the hole in the rear panel. Replace the mounting screws to hold the sensor in place. Finally, reconnect the wire harness.
4. Plug in the range, and turn the gas back on. Test the new sensor by turning the oven on and measuring the temperature inside with an oven thermometer.

Other Contributing Components to Non-Heating Oven Malfunction
The Oven Control Board, as mentioned above, works in conjunction with the oven sensor. While the sensor is more likely to malfunction, the control board can also end up failing. If this happens, the component may inaccurately read the temperature sent from the oven sensor, which can lead to the oven not heating at all or the temperature being significantly wrong. Replacing the defective control board is your best option.

The Gas Safety Valve regulates when gas is and isn’t released into the oven. If the component is working properly, the safety valve will open when the oven igniter begins to glow white hot. A malfunctioning gas safety valve won’t allow gas into the oven, even after the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas. While a defective safety valve can happen, it is a rare occurrence, meaning you should rule out more common malfunctions first. However, if you do discover the gas safety valve is causing a
non-heating oven, replacing the component is the only way to fix the problem.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Akai TV, PDP4294
Reason for Service: Set won’t start; relay clicks with 6 blinks
Solution: Replaced C523 & C524 in power supply. 0.22uF/400V 

Samsung TV, HL61A650C1FXZA
Reason for Service: Set shuts down after being on for short time
Solution: Found lots of dust on fans and fan intake for the fans.  Cleaning enabled set to operate normally again.

Samsung TV, UN55C6900VFXZA
Reason for Service: Dead, no blinking codes
Solution: Replaced ICB801 and zener ZDB802.

Sony TV, KDL46HX729
Reason for Service: Dead
Solution:  Replaced power supply, 1-474-306-11  G5 board.

Toshiba TV,  50H72
Reason for Service:  White screen with lines in it
Solution: Found cold solder on the black wire that feeds the convergence IC’s.
Repaired solder and replaced fuse F850 (5A) and both STK392-110 IC’s.

Vizio TV,  VO370M
Reason for Service: Remote not working
Solution: Found CR2 leaky on remote board. 

Westinghouse TV, TX42F430S
Reason for Service: Set seems to come on, (power light on) but no backlights
Solution: Found bad cap on main board: TC51,  470uF/16V. 

Zenith TV, A27A76R  (module  9-1998)
Reason for Service: Picture is too red, green or blue
Solution: Found leaky Q2205 on main and bad solder on Q5102 on CRT board.

Zenith TV, A27A76R
Reason for Service: Vert rolling and shrinking when cold.
Solution: Replaced CX2105, 220 at 35V.

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Many factors can cause dishwashers to leak. But if a leak occurs near the bottom of a dishwasher and the water pressure is low during the wash cycle, it likely needs new impellers.

To make the repair, order a drain and wash impeller kit, which is part #675806 for Whirlpool, Maytag and other common dishwasher brands. Then, follow these steps to install the new parts:

1. Unplug dishwasher and turn off water supply.

When repairing a major appliance, the first step is always disconnecting the unit from its power supply. Even though this replacement procedure doesn’t directly involve electrical components, it’s safer to unplug the appliance and turn off the water supply. This reduces the risk of leaks and water damage during the repair.

2. Access the pump.

Open the dishwasher door, remove the lower rack and set aside. Loosen the spray arm nut counterclockwise and set aside. Remove the whole lower spray arm. Next, take out the bearing — these are the loose parts that need to be set aside before you start dismantling the base of the machine.

3. Uninstall the old drain and wash impellers.

Remove the eight screws securing the pump to the base. Pick up the pump, and pull it free from the hose. Use a wrench to hold the impeller in place, then remove the screw in the middle of the impeller. Without the wrench, the part will spin in place. Set the screw aside, and lift the impeller free. Uninstall the filter assembly, and pull it out. The filter has a gasket around the top. If the part came with a replacement seal, remove the old one and set it aside. Clean the filter of hard water deposits and grime to ensure the new seal sets into place properly.

Lift the chopper and spring assembly away from the shaft. Then, unscrew and remove the cover. Now the drain impeller is completely accessible. Pry it free from the central shaft. If the drain impeller is secured too firmly in place from years of use, carefully chisel the part and break it free. Discard all of these parts.

Next, pry the seal away from the bottom of the shaft. Clean the area with a cloth or vacuum, especially if you had to break the impeller into parts. Make sure the white balls in the bottom compartment don’t get lost or removed. If the central shaft is rusty
or dirty, now is also the perfect time to clean or file it into better shape.

4. Install the new drain and wash impeller kit, and reassemble the machine.

These steps work in reverse from the kit removal in the previous step. The kit involves many parts that look similar, so be sure to refer to the installation diagram as needed to use the correct parts during installation. Before starting, you may want to keep the drain and wash impeller kit parts in a plastic container so they stay separate from the other parts you removed from
the machine. This can also help simplify the reassembly process because the drain and wash impellers are separated by older parts that will be reinstalled.

Start with the seal assembly. Slide the seal over the shaft, and make sure the seal is tightly aligned and flat with the base. Next, align the drain impeller hole with the pattern on the shaft. Slide it down against the seal, and place the cover into position. Secure it with the screw removed previously.

5. Install the spring and chopper.

Pick up the spring and chopper parts. Slide the long end of the spring into the edge of the chopper so the middle of the spring and the hole in the chopper align. Then, slide it over the shaft with the spring side down. Rotate the assembly clockwise until the start of the spring interlocks with the top of the impeller.

6. Reinstall the filter assembly.

Find the side of the filter assembly that has a flat section along the top. This is where the wide hose connects to the drain, so orient this section to the back of the machine when you put the filter assembly over the shaft. Retighten the four screws that secure the filter assembly in place.

7. Install the wash impeller assembly.

Line the hole in the middle of the wash impeller with the flat grooves in the shaft. Slide the wash assembly flush against the top of the filter assembly. Then, hold the impeller in place with your wrench again. This enables you to re-tighten the central screw.

8. Make sure the screw is firmly tightened.

This screw is what applies the pressure against the water seal below. Test the wash impeller to make sure you can manually rotate it without any drag or unexpected friction. Put the new seal in the filter’s housing. The ring should slide into the groove without much stretching or tension.

9. Reinstall the pump.

Firmly insert the pump’s arm into the supply tube. Then, shift the assembly on top of the filter assembly. Once it’s in place over the central shaft, re-secure it with the eight screws. Slide the split bearing you removed earlier on top of the central shaft. Next, put the lower spray arm assembly on top of it. Make sure it’s level before you tighten the spray arm nut. Once the assembly is
secured, make sure the spray arm can rotate without drag or wobbling.

10. Put the lower rack back into the machine and close your dishwasher.

This repair procedure has a lot of moving parts, but it doesn’t require extensive experience or specialty tools. All you need is the replacement parts and enough space to stay comfortably organized.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Although microwave ovens vary in design, they are virtually all similar in function. Most models are equipped with preset cooking times, programmed according to the basic popularity of certain food items, such as popcorn. Microwaves also have power level setting and timing options for food items not included in the pre-set modules.

After the desired cooking setting has been chosen and the start button pressed, the control board sends 120 volts of electricity traveling through a series of components inside your microwave and converts it into high-powered radio waves that cook your food. Once the radio waves are inside the cooking area, they penetrate the food from the outside in causing moisture in the food to vibrate intensely. It is this vibration that generates the heat that cooks the food.

Models equipped with a motorized turntable, rotate food so that radio waves can cook the food uniformly. For more, watch this  5-minute video for a deeper understanding of how a microwave oven works. Here are some tips to deal with operational issues:

How to Remove and Replace the Magnetron in a Microwave Not Heating
If your microwave fails to warm or cook your food, it’s possible that the magnetron will need to be replaced. Due to the electrical danger involved, it’s recommended that this service be performed by a professional appliance repair company; here are the repair basics:

Tools Needed

• Two insulated screwdrivers
• Needle nose pliers
• # 20 Torx screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver

The following procedure is for a Whirlpool microwave that sits above the range. Servicing will take some time and patience to complete. Several screws must be removed to access the magnetron. Place the screws in a container to avoid misplacement and then:

• Remove turntable and set aside.
• Using Phillips bit with electrical drill, dismount microwave by removing two screws that hold it to kitchen cabinet.
• Tilt microwave toward you at about 45-degree angle and lift it off rear bracket that holds it in place on kitchen wall.
• Remove grill and set aside.
• Flip microwave on its back and remove eight Phillips-style screws. When completed, flip microwave back to its original position.
• Remove 10 Phillips screws that hold microwave wrap in place. Remove rear cover and set aside.
• Now remove eight more screws from top of microwave cover.
• Don’t forget to remove two screws that hold blower cover in place. Remove cover and set aside.
• With all exterior screws removed, you should be able to grab sides of cover and gently pull toward yourself, lift it from its place and set aside.
• Remove panel that protects diode and capacitor.
• Since capacitor retains residual voltage that could result in serious shock, you are going to short out remaining electricity.
• Place metal end of one insulated screwdriver on one capacitor terminal and place  other insulated screwdriver on other tab. Cross screwdrivers and hold them together, metal to metal. You should hear pop or see spark discharging any
  remaining voltage in capacitor. To be safe, perform this task twice. After discharging residual voltage, and with microwave unplugged, it should be safe to proceed with removing magnetron.
• Access magnetron by removing three Phillips type screws that hold waveguide to rear panel. The waveguide is a plastic tube-like guide that directs radio waves to inside of microwave.
• Before removing waveguide, remove power cord ground wire from rear panel.
• Remove power cord by sliding it out of its guide and set aside to keep out of the way.
• Remove last screw holding waveguide in place and carefully manipulate waveguide from its place and set aside. There is one more part to remove before you can access magnetron.
• Remove magnetron thermostat, which is held in place with two Phillips screws. Gently pull thermostat away from magnetron.
• Use needle nose pliers to disconnect locking tabs from magnetron. Pinch tabs inward until you feel release and pull wire away from  tab. It does not matter in what order these wire tabs are reconnected to new magnetron; they are just
  completing a circuit.
• Use #20 Torx screwdriver to remove four screws that hold magnetron in position. Lift old magnetron from its location and set aside. You are now ready to install new magnetron and return microwave to its previous state. You are going to pretty much do everything in reverse order, but following is a quick go-to guide that will help ensure you reassemble all parts and screws to their previous locations. It is no good to finally get the microwave back together only to discover the blower fan cover was not reinstalled, or worst yet, the waveguide.
  ● Install the new magnetron (two torx screws).
  ● Reconnect wire tabs.
  ● Return magnetron thermostat to proper location (two Phillips screws).
  ● Reinstall waveguide cover (three Phillips screws).
  ● Slide power cord into its guide.
  ● Reconnect power cord ground wire to rear panel.
  ● Reinstall high voltage protective cover (two Phillips screws).
  ● Reinstall cover, and don’t forget to feed power cord through fan opening.
  ● Ensure cover is flush with panel by placing slide into panel and ensure no gaps exist on either side.
  ● Reinstall back screws first to keep cover in place.
  ● Replace fan cover, making sure to slide tabs into designated slots.
  ● Reinstall all screws in top panels.
  ● Flip microwave on its back and reinstall the eight Phillips screws.
  ● Flip upright and replace grill, ensuring tabs line up to designated slots. Once grill is in place, use two Phillips screws to  secure. Do not over tighten any screw used to hold plastic part in place as plastic could crack or break.
  ● Enlist help to hold and balance microwave as you line it up with bracket that holds unit to wall.
  ● Feed power cord through designated hole in kitchen cabinet.
  ● Reinstall the two Phillips screws that anchor top of microwave to bottom of  kitchen cabinet.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

LG TV,  47LH41UE
Reason for Service:  Dead
Solution: Replaced D601 diode pack. Check insulation for diode pack to heat sink and screw insulator.

RCA TV, D52W20,  (ITC222)
Reason for Service: Picture normal with bright set low, but distorts and stretches when brightness is adjusted up.
Solution: Check DI106 and DI032.

Samsung TV, HL61A650C1FXZA
Reason for Service: Set won’t come on.  Power light cycles on, then off, on then off, etc.
Solution: Replaced ballast cap C20, and two open caps in the power supply.  C801S & C802S.

Samsung TV, HL72A650C1FXZA
Reason for Service: At turn on, lamp flickers then set turns off.
Solution: This was caused by two bad caps in main power supply.  C802 & C810; both 470 at 200V.

Samsung TV,  PN43E450A
Reason for Service:  Set won’t start or shuts down intermittently.
Solution:  Pin 1 of CN801 not fully seated in connector.  Reseating pin fixed the set.

Sharp TV, LC46LE830U
Reason for Service: Shutdown, error was 2 slow then 5 fast blinks.
Solution: Replaced the power board: RUNTKA790WJQZ. 

Sony TV, KDL32L504
Reason for Service:  Dead, maybe lightning
Solution: Replaced IC6102,  #670880101

Toshiba TV,  46XV648U
Reason for Service:  Dead
Solution:  In power supply, found R850 bad.  1.8 ohm, 5W.  Also replaced relays SR80 & SR81.

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Samsung TV, LN37A550P3F
Reason for Service:  Normal picture goes to white screen in about a minute
Solution: There’s a bad chip on the T-Con; use freeze spray to find and verify.

Samsung TV,  PN60E7000
Reason for Service:  Might be dead, or comes on for a short time, then turns off
Solution:  Look for bad solder on the FETs. Clean and resolder.

Sony TV,  KDL32S20L
Reason for Service:  Backlight comes on for short time then goes off; 4 blink error
Solution: Look for bad ccfl tubes, shorted FET drivers and/or defective output transformer.

Sony TV,  KDS55A2000
Reason for Service:  Shutdown with 4 blink error
Solution:  Remove back and look for dust in exhaust fan. Cleaning should fix the set.

Panasonic TV,  TCP50U50
Reason for Service:  Shutdown, 8 blink error.
Solution:  Found Q051 shorted on SS Board; DG3D3020CVLW.  Use screw kit also: XYN3-F6FJ-18PK.

Toshiba TV, 46SL412U
Reason for Service: Power LED flashes at turn on, but set won’t start
Solution: Found bad Q30 on main board; replacing fixed set.

Vizio TV, VX37LHDTV10A
Reason for Service: No backlight. Emblem turns amber when set plugged in, then turns white when set turned on. Cannot turn set off without unplugging.
Solution: Power supply voltages okay. Main regulator U7 was bad.  Replacing it fixed set.

Westinghouse TV,  TX42F430S
Reason for Service:  Dead, has amber standby
Solution:  Found bad cap, TC51.  470uF/16V.  Replacing fixed set.