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CE Tech Tips — July 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hisense TV, 50K360G
Reason for Service: Has audio and backlight, but no picture.
Solution: Replaced T-Con. 

LG TV, 32LX1D
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Replacing C127 and C127 restored normal operation.

Panasonic Combo, PVDM2791
Reason for Service: No vertical
Solution: Replaced the following: U451, LA7331, C401, 2.2uF/50V, C402, 470uF/16V, C408, 1uF/50V, and C409, 100uF/35V.

Samsung plasma, HP-R4252
Reason for Service: Picture has red dotted horizontal lines
over 3/4 of the screen.
Solution: Replacing both lower and upper buffers fixed the set.

 

Sony TV, KDL55EX710
Reason for Service: Set shuts down a couple of hours after turning on. 7 blink error.
Solution: Ensure set has good ventilation; might have to replace BAL board.

Vizio TV, E370VLE
Reason for Service: Set won’t start. Logo changes from amber to white, but no B/L, no sound.
Solution: Found D120 on power board was shorted. Used MUR460.

 Vizio TV, M470NV
Reason for Service: Unit powers on, logo goes white then back to amber and set never starts.
Solution: Reflowing U9 on main board fixed the set. 

Westinghouse TV, DW37H1G1
Reason for Service: Set just keeps cycling the colors and will not turn off.
Solution: Unplug set, hold MENU button down while plugging set back in.

 

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Whirlpool Dishwasher Pump Replacement

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When a dishwasher won’t clean dishes, one of the first likely causes is the pump outlet. This part connects the main water supply tube to the pump and spray arms. If it cracks, water pressure decreases and will not properly shoot out of the spray arms to effectively wash food particles away. Here’s how to fix a Whirlpool dishwasher in just a few minutes with replacement part 8194582.

1. Unplug appliance. Even though this repair doesn’t involve electrical components, unplugging or flipping the circuit
breaker to major appliances (especially major appliances with water) better ensures your safety.
2. Access spray arms. Open the dishwasher door and remove lower rack. Unscrew spray arm central piece and fully remove, along with arms and bearings. One metal bearing is in the spray arm apparatus, and the other is below resting on the pump outlet.
3. Remove pump outlet. There are eight screws holding the pump outlet in place below the spray arm apparatus. Use a
screwdriver to remove the screws. Set them aside for later use since the replacement parts do not come with replacement screws. Disconnect from supply tube. Remove the old pump seal with flathead screwdriver.
4. Install replacement part. Put seal in housing and connect pump outlet to water supply tube. Make sure outlet is aligned with holes and screw into position.
5. Put the dishwasher back together. Reinstall bearings and spray arm apparatus. Make sure it spins with friction or tension.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.

CE Tech Tips — June 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, L32A403
Reason for Service: Set comes on, works okay for an hour then panel shuts
off; sound and other functions work. Turning the TV off, then back on,
set works again for an hour then repeats.
Solution: Replacing inverter board assembly fixed the set. 

Hitachi TV, 57F59A
Reason for Service
: No video or weak video. No voltage on the
ABL pin of the fly.
Solution: Replaced open RH28. 

Hitachi TV, 57F59A
Reason for Service: HDMI issues, changes colors, snowy picture,
loss of one or more colors, all white, shuts down.
Solution: Replace Signal Board and make sure software
Hitversion is V201 or higher. 

LG TV, 60LS5750
Reason for Service: After set is on for a few minutes, screen has
many red vertical lines, then picture turns off, but audio remains.
Fix: Replacing T-Con fixed the set.

 

Panasonic TV, TC-32LX85
Reason for Service
: No power.
Solution: Found bad photo opto in power supply. PC7000.

Samsung TV, UN40F5500
Reason for Service:
Dead, 2 blink error code.
Solution: Found SM RS802 that feeds the opto was open. Replacing fixed the set. 10 ohm. 

Sony TV, KDL-40V4100
Reason for Service: No video.
Solution: No 12V to T-Con. Replaced U21, (AS15F) on T-Con and replaced F1422/1421 on BU Board.

Sony TV, KV40XBR800
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replacing relay RY6502 fixed the set.

 

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Encompass to Manage Parts Supply for Element Appliances

Lawrenceville, Ga., June 9, 2021 – Encompass Supply Chain Solutions, Inc., a leading provider of replacement parts and supply chain services for a diverse range of product brands, today announced it has finalized an agreement to provide repair parts support for Element Electronics’ home refrigeration products.

Under the deal, Encompass will manage the parts supply chain for Element’s appliance line, which currently includes top mount refrigerators up to 18 cubic feet, as well as chest and upright freezers up to 14 cubic feet.  Founded in 2007, Element Electronics is an established brand in the consumer electronics market.

Encompass services will include parts forecasting, procurement, warehousing and distribution. The Element program will be managed primarily through Encompass’s Georgia distribution center, with inventory additionally available from its Florida, Nevada and New York facilities to expedite delivery throughout the U.S.

Encompass will supply repair parts primarily to Element’s authorized service network and self-maintaining retailers. Encompass has created a custom e-commerce portal Element.encompass.com to streamline access to Element parts pricing, availability and online ordering.

“We are excited for the opportunity to partner with Element as they continue gaining a foothold in the appliance market,” said Encompass Senior Vice President Joe Hurley. “By partnering with Encompass, Element can continue creating innovative products with the reassurance that their existing appliance lines will be well supported after the sale.”

Vlad Kazhdan, Element Electronics co-president, said that working with Encompass aligns well with Element’s core business objectives.

“Element Electronics is committed to providing consumers with top-quality electronics and appliances equipped with the latest technology, at the best possible prices,” said Kazhdan. “This commitment extends to standing behind our products once they’re in the home. We selected Encompass for their shared dedication to maintaining a strong, reliable parts supply chain and keeping our customers satisfied with the Element brand well beyond the initial sale.”

About Element Electronics

Founded in 2007, Element Electronics provides top-quality electronics and appliances to consumers with the latest technology at the most accessible prices. Consumers can purchase Element Electronics products across the United States through major retailers, including Target, Walmart, Costco, Meijer and more. Element is the only major TV brand assembling televisions in the United States in its Winnsboro, South Carolina factory. Learn more at ElementElectronics.com.

About Encompass Supply Chain Solutions, Inc.

Formed in 1953, Encompass is one of the country’s largest suppliers of repair parts and accessories for products throughout the home. Encompass also offers complete parts supply chain management, 3PL, depot repair and reverse logistics service. In addition to consumers, we support an array of B2B customers, including manufacturers, multi-family property management, warranty providers, service networks, independent dealers and retailers.

 

For more information, please visit solutions.encompass.com and follow us on LinkedIn, Facebook and Twitter.

 

CONTACT: Kristin Hurst, Director of Marketing & Communications

 

Diagnosing and Repairing Electrolux Dryer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When dealing with an Electrolux dryer that is not heating and drying clothes, there are several areas to check for issues and possibly make repairs.

Check Thermal Fuse

The first component to check is the thermal fuse, which prevents the dryer from overheating. To check the thermal fuse and replace it if necessary, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off dryer at wall and remove plug.
  2. Locate the thermal fuse – it should be on the blower housing or by the dryer’s heat source (the burner for a gas dryer or the heating element for electric dryers).
  3. Then, use multimeter to check fuse for continuity.
  4. If it has continuity, it hasn’t blown, so check the next component. If there is no continuity, replace the fuse.
  5. Once the fuse has been replaced, check exhaust vent to ensure it’s not blocked, which is usually what causes the fuse to blow.

Test Igniter

The second component to check is the igniter, which ignites gas to power gas dryers. When it fails, the dryer cannot operate correctly. To check the igniter:

  1. Turn dryer off and remove plug (or turn off at the mains).
  2. Locate igniter and test for continuity with a multimeter.
  3. If the igniter has continuity, check the next component. If it doesn’t have continuity, it is defective and will need to be replaced.

Check Flame Sensor

After inspecting the thermal fuse and igniter, check the flame sensor, which detects heat from the flame. When the sensor is faulty, the dryer will not heat. To check:

  1. Make sure dryer is still turned off, then locate flame sensor.
  2. Use a multimeter to test the sensor for continuity.
  3. If it does not have continuity, it must be replaced.

Check Gas Valve Solenoid

For a gas-powered dryer, the next component to check is the gas valve solenoid, which enables gas to flow into the burner assembly via gas valve ports. When the valves fail, the dryer can’t heat. To check the gas valve solenoid:

  1. Turn dryer off at the wall and remove plug.
  2. The best way to check if a gas valve solenoid has failed is to check the igniter. Locate the igniter to see if it glows and then ignites gas.
  3. If it fails, replace all of the gas valve solenoids. If the igniter ignites the gas, then the gas valve solenoids are working correctly and not the source of the problem.

Test Heating Element

Another possible cause of an Electrolux dryer failing to heat is if the heating element is faulty. This will prevent the air that circulates the dryer from heating. To check the element:

  1. Turn dryer off at the wall.
  2. Find the element, and then use a multimeter to test it for continuity.
  3. If it doesn’t have continuity, it’s burned out and needs to be replaced.

Test Incoming Power

A problem with incoming power is another common reason for dryers to stop heating. To check the power:

  1. Check fuse box to see if the fuses have blown or circuit breakers tripped. They will need to be fixed if so.
  2. If they are correctly working, check the voltage by using a multimeter. Electric Electrolux dryers require two legs of 120 volts AC (for a total of 250 volts) to operate correctly.
  3. If there is a problem with the voltage, it will need to be repaired.

Test High-Limit and Cycling Thermostats

These two thermostats help monitor and regulate the dryer temperature while it’s running through a cycle. When they are defective, they can stop the dryer from heating correctly. However, they are not a common cause of issues, so only check them once you have tried all of the other components previously outlined.

To check the high-limit thermostat and the cycling thermostat:

  1. Make sure the dryer is turned off.
  2. Locate the thermostats (they are two separate components).
  3. Use a multimeter to check for continuity.
  4. If they both have continuity, they are not the cause of the problem. Otherwise, they will need to be replaced.

Test Timer

If every other component above is working, check the dryer’s timer. Like the thermostats, the timer is very rarely the cause of a dryer not heating, but they can be checked if all other components have been ruled out. To check the timer:

  1. Make sure dryer is turned off at the wall.
  2. Locate timer and use a multimeter to check it for continuity.
  3. If it has continuity, it is working correctly and doesn’t need to be replaced. Otherwise, it’s faulty and needs to be replaced.

Check Main Control Board

The final component to check is the main control board. This is again a very uncommon cause of a dryer failing to heat. It is also very difficult to test with the only option to replace it to see if it fixes the issue.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — May 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Dynex TV, DX40L150A11
Reason for Service: Backlights come on briefly, then screen goes black.
Solution: Replacing inverter module restored normal operation. 

Emerson TV, LC-320EM2A
Reason for Service
: When pushing power button, there is a high pitch
squeal and blinking blue power light.
Solution: Replaced shorted D633 in power supply. 27V/1W. 

LG TV, 47LH40UA AUSVVLHR
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found bad Opto in power supply, PC502; replacing it fixed the set. 

LG TV, 50PA4500
Reason for Service: Power button or remote will not turn set on.
Solution: Found bad cap in power supply, C802. Replacing it fixed the set. 0.022mF/1600V

 

Samsung TV, LN32B360C5d
Reason for Service: Set turns on one time at plug in, then won’t turn on again unless it is unplugged first.
Solution: Repairing bad tab on power supply board used for CCFL tubes fixed set. 

Sony TV, KDL40Z4100
Reason for Service: Dead, no standby.
Solution: On power supply board found shorted IC6101 and an open R6127, 10 ohm/Fusible.

Sony TV, KDL40V4100
Reason for Service
: Dead set, no standby.
Solution: Replacing Fusible resistor R6200, (10 ohm/half W) and IC6200 restored normal operation.

Vizio TV, M420NV
Reason for Service
: Set had no video, but sound was okay.
Solution: Installing eeprom kit fixed the set.

 

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Fixing Whirlpool Top Load Washer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If Whirlpool top loading washer model WTW4850HW or WTW4955HW stops working, there are a handful of reasons for a malfunction. This tech tip covers troubleshooting for when the unit appears to be dead — there is no noise when trying to start a load and nothing happens. Possible causes of the problem include:

  • Not plugged in securely
  • Current not reaching the outlet
  • Water supply valve not turned on properly
  • Filter screens filled with debris
  • Door lock switch not functioning
  • Washer motor not working

Check Plug

The easiest fix is to make sure the unit’s electrical cord is securely plugged in before starting the washing cycle.

Test Current

Use a voltage tester to ensure the electrical outlet is getting the correct voltage. If it is not receiving voltage, ensure that it is not controlled by a switch that may be accidentally turned off.  Other possible reasons that an outlet may not receive voltage are that the fuse has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped. Try resetting the circuit breaker to see if this fixes the problem. Another issue could be a ground fault circuit interrupt, which can cause an outlet to be tripped. (These are commonly found in bathrooms or near water.) Press the reset button to see if this fixes the voltage problem.  If you suspect loose wiring, check the outlet box where wiring typically wears down first.

Check Filter Screens

The water inlet valve for both hot and cold water is located at the back of the washer. The supply hoses should have a filter screen to catch debris from damaging the washer. If it’s clogged, the water pressure may be too low for the unit to properly function.

To check this, unplug the washer from the outlet and then turn off the water supply at the wall. Be sure to have a bucket on hand to catch any water spills. Next, disconnect the two water hoses connected to the rear of the washer and put them into the bucket. It is unlikely that the filter screen is damaged; it likely just needs to be cleared of debris. Clean off any buildup, but be careful not to damage the screens. (If screens are damaged, the entire water valve will need to be replaced.) Connect the water hoses again and check the functionality.

Door Lock

If the door lock is not shut all the way or defective, the unit will not work. The lid lock latch assembly can be replaced with part number W11307244. This is one of the more common reasons these models malfunction, but replacement is very easy.

To replace, unplug the washer and remove the back panel with a screwdriver. Then, detach the wire harness from the door latch assembly and reconnect the new door lock assembly.

Washer Motor

If nothing else works to get the unit working again, the cause could be a bad motor, or it may have just worn out over years of usage.

Replacing a washer motor can be expensive and a little more time consuming than some of the other fixes. Before replacing, be sure to have the correct part number and tools. While not required, a magnetic screw catcher can be helpful when working with appliances to keep them together while performing the repair.

Tools needed:

  • Large set of pliers
  • Electrical tape
  • 5/16th” socket
  • 1/2″ socket
  • Magnetic screw catcher (optional)
  • Towels for any water spillage

Unplug the power cord and shut off the water supply before beginning. Remove the washer away from the wall to easily access. Remove the hot and water supply lines from the inlet valve on the back of the unit using pliers, then twisting by hand. Water will likely spill out.

At the bottom of the washer, remove the drain hose by releasing the hose clamp with the pliers. Use a piece of electrical tape to secure the washer lid, and tip the washer on its back.

Use a socket or nut driver to remove the plastic belt guard, and disconnect the drive motor wire connector and the drive belt. This can be done manually without tools. Be careful not to stretch the belt. This is an ideal time to replace the belt if needed with part #W11239857.

With the ½” socket, remove the mounting screws and the motor. Next, install the new drive motor part #W10832724 by positioning it on the gearcase and tightening the screws to secure. Replace the belt if needed to the belt gears or use the existing one. Twist the larger gear several times to make sure the belt is lined up. The motor should be moving simultaneously.

Replace all other components that were removed. Connect the wire connector, and put the belt guard back on with the screws. Once the washer is upright, attach each of the three hoses on the back, making sure to connect the hot and cold water correctly. Turn on the water and plug in the washer and it should be good to go.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

How to Test Fridge Bulb

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Wondering if that refrigerator LED is faulty? Just check it using a couple of pieces of scrap wire and an old battery.

In this example, a nine-volt battery that will no longer power a multimeter is being used. The battery is still putting out about 4.5 volts DC, which is ideal for testing refrigerator LEDs.

Take two small wires and strip them on each end — one end should be stripped at about half the length of the other. Using the short end, insert each wire into the connector for the LED.

With the wires inserted, hold them in place and touch the positive terminal to the battery to one wire and the negative to the other. Below is a link to a video showing the testing process step by step. If the LED lights up, it’s good and the issue is likely to be the door switch or LED driver.

WATCH HOW TO VIDEO

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — April 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 60SDX88B
Reason for Service: Picture displays a pin problem.
Solution: Replacing Q657 fixed this set.

Hitachi TV, 42HDS69
Reason for Service: Set just clicks when powered on.
Solution: Replaced two 3300uF/100V caps in power supply.

Insignia TV, NS42L780A12
Reason for Service: Set had good audio, but no picture because no backlight.
Solution: In the power supply, Q801 and Q802 were shorted, (had bad solder) and R801 was burned.  0.1ohm/2W.

Panasonic TV, TCP50X5
Reason for Service: Dead, may be intermittent.
Solution: Replaced U203 on back side of power supply.

 

Samsung TV, PN51D550C1
Reason for Service: Six blink code when you plug in set, but set will not turn on.
Solution: Determined it was bad Y main, then found shorted C5020 on Y main.  Replaced C5020.

Sony TV, KDL40V2500
Reason for Service: Right side of screen had video strobing; left side no video at all.  Audio okay.
Solution: Found 3 bad caps in power supply, C6204, C6205 and C6207.
Replacing these fixed the set.

Sylvania TV, LC190SL1
Reason for Service: Dead, fuse blown.
Solution: Replaced Q601, Q602, R610, 0.39Ω/2W and D607 zener. Also check D605, D606.

 

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Troubleshooting Sub-Zero Refrigerator

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Sub-Zero is one of America’s most renowned refrigerator brands, thanks to its legendary quality and features. This post covers troubleshooting and suggested repairs for the following models:

  • Model 700TR
  • Model 736TR
  • Model 700TF(I)
  • Model 736TFI
  • Model 700TC(I)
  • Model 736TCI
  • Model 700BR
  • Model 700BF(I)
  • Model 700BC(I)

Sub-Zero refrigerators typically require minimal maintenance and operate efficiently. However, integrated units can sometimes malfunction, indicate errors or fail to perform as expected. Here are some common issues:

Refrigerator or Freezer Unit Frosted Up

After some time, the Sub-Zero refrigerator may frost up around the cooling element. This can adversely affect cooling performance and puts more pressure on the motor. It also takes up space in the appliance’s internal compartment, leaving less space for food storage.

Here’s the fix:

  1. Determine if refrigerator door accidentally left open — This can allow moisture into the appliance, which then condenses on the refrigerant at the rear of the unit where it eventually freezes.
  2. Check seals around door — If seals are damaged, moldy or missing, air can freely circulate into the unit, allowing moisture to condense and form ice deposits. You can order a replacement gasket (door seal) from Sub-Zero. Heavy use limits the life of gaskets. The brand supplies the following gasket types:
    • BI – for Classic Series door replacement
    • IT, IC – for Designer Series and Designer Wine Storage replacement
    • PRO3650 and PRO4850 – for door gasket replacement
    • Generic parts are available if you are unable to source OEM.

Refrigerator Not Operating

Occasionally, Sub-Zero refrigerators will stop working entirely. Don’t assume the unit has come to the end of its useful life. Simple fixes can often resolve the problem.

Here are steps to try:

  1. Ensure power on — If appliances are on a separate circuit, check to see if the switch has tripped in the fuse box. Also, ensure that any buttons on the unit are set to the on or “1” position.
  2. Ensure refrigerator control on — Sub-Zero refrigerators come with a thermostat that continuously senses the internal temperature of the appliance and adjusts cooling power accordingly. Sometimes, however, it fails to switch the compressor on, even when the fridge interior gets warm, making it seem as if the appliance is not operating. Try installing a new Sub-Zero thermostat. On refrigerators, the control is on the top right of the back wall.
  3. Check to ensure unit not in showroom mode — If this might be the case, contact Sub-Zero customer service for step-by-step instructions on how to convert it to normal mode.
  4. See if unit is in defrost mode — Sub-Zero refrigerators periodically shut off the cooling unit to allow for de-icing. Wait half an hour to see if the unit restarts.

Ice Maker Not Working

Check to ensure the ice maker is:

  1. Turned on at control panel.
  2. Connected to water supply and operating properly.
  3. Also check to ensure the ice container is in correct position in freezer drawer.

“SERVICE” Warning Flashing On Control Panel Display

Sub-Zero refrigerators come with sensors that alert when service is needed:

  1. When “SERVICE” flashes, it could mean the condenser needs to be cleaned. This is the part of the refrigerator that transfers heat from the refrigerant to the air. Begin by switching the unit off and then switching it back on again. If the error message persists, contact a Sub-Zero-accredited repair engineer as this is not a DIY fix.
  2. On fridge-freezer units, if the error codes “SERVICE” and “ICE” are flashing, try above method and restart the unit to see if the alerts go away. If not, contact Sub-Zero-accredited repair engineer

Refrigerator Running Warmer than Usual

Occasionally, Sub-Zero refrigerators run warmer than usual, even if cooling is at the maximum setting.

Here’s the fix:

  1. Ensure control is set properly — It may have accidentally been set too warm.
  2. Ensure condenser area clean — If it isn’t, try unplugging unit from the wall and dusting around the area. If the problem is inside the unit, contact an accredited Sub-Zero repair engineer.
  3. Excessive and/or hot contents Has a large amount of food been recently stored inside? Solids tend to retain their heat longer than gases and require more energy to cool. If the unit was just loaded with fresh shopping or hot food, the temperature will rise, making it seem as if it’s running hot. Wait awhile and then check the temperature again to see if it’s still elevated.
  4. Doors or drawers kept opened Refrigerators are powerful enough to cool interiors, but they can’t cool a home. Make sure nothing is obstructing openings and preventing closure.

Refrigerator Runs Longer than Usual

Sub-Zero refrigerators should run only when the temperature rises above the set level. The rest of the time, they rely on insulation to keep food chilled. However, sometimes the refrigerator continues running for longer periods. Here’s the fix:

  1. Consider weather — On hot days, units will run longer to maintain cooler internal temperatures.
  2. Open doors Make sure doors are always tightly closed with no obstructions.
  3. Condenser — Check to ensure condenser area is clean.

Light Bulb Out

The lightbulb could fail in either the drawer or top compartment, making it difficult to see inside. Here’s the fix:

  1. Replace top compartment light with standard 40-watt bulb – code 3030030.
  2. Replace drawer compartment light with standard 25-watt bulb – code 3030060.

 

Visit Fred’s Appliance Academy to learn more about the training provided in appliance repair.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Want more tips? Click here to see all electronics and appliance tips!