Author - wpadmin

Accessing and Testing Microwave Door Switches

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

WARNING : Disconnect the microwave from any power source before moving forward.

Microwaves include three switches located behind the control panel: primary, secondary and monitor switch all actuate to keep the microwave from cooking the kitchen while the door is open.

Accessing the Switches

  • Remove the two Phillips screws that hold grill in place on top of microwave. Remove grill and lay aside.
  • Locate and remove the one Phillips screw that holds the control panel in place.
  • Lift up control panel and gently pull toward you. This will provide access to the three switches.
  • Remove all wires from control board. All wires are different from each other and will only fit on the terminal they were designed for.
  • Use needle nose pliers to remove connectors from terminals that can’t be removed by hand. Gently squeeze  connector to release it from the terminal.
  • The last wire to remove is the ground wire, which is connected to the microwave frame. Set control panel aside.
  • Remove  access cover and set aside.

How To Test the Switches

  • Set the multimeter to OHMS to test the three switches.
  • Please note that the primary and secondary switches are tested with the door open. With the door open, place the multimeter leads on the connectors on the primary switch first. When closing the door, the multimeter should produce a beep if the switch is good.
  • Test the secondary switch in the same manner.
  • Test the monitor switch with the door closed. When opening the door, the meter should beep.
  • If appropriate beeps did not sound on any or all three of these switches, replace the switch.

These three switches serve mainly to keep the microwave from operating with the door open. The switches also deliver voltage to the diode and magnetron which heat the microwave. If the switches test positive, this further confirms that magnetron has failed and needs to be replaced.

It’s time to button up the microwave. For most people, this is as far as you may wish to proceed. There is an ever increased chance of suffering a powerful electrical shock from the high voltage capacitor, which retains a residual amount of electricity. It will need to be discharged before the magnetron and high powered diode can be accessed and replaced.

Route the control panel wires back through the appropriate slots in the access cover and reattach the cover to the microwave frame. Reconnect the ground wire first and then reconnect all other wires to their compatible terminals.

Push the control panel back in place and secure with its Phillips screw. With the door open, replace grill cover. Opening the door makes it easier to replace the grill. Secure with its two Phillips screws. Do not over tighten these screws as the grill is made of plastic and it could break or crack.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

How to Replace Whirlpool Refrigerator Water Tank and Filter Head Assembly

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When a leak occurs inside a Whirlpool refrigerator, the water tank and filter head assembly could be at fault. This is the part that connects the water supply line behind the refrigerator to the filter and then to the inlet valve. In an area with hard water, buildup can clog or crack through the tubing. Following are steps to replacing the assembly with part #WP12956202.

1. Unplug refrigerator and turn off water supply
Always be sure to unplug an appliance before starting a repair. Also, because this repair involves replacing part of the water system, turn off the water supply at the local shut-off valve behind the refrigerator. The part being replaced connects directly to the supply line, so disconnect the supply line from the water inlet valve at the base of the refrigerator while you’re behind the appliance.

2. Dismantle refrigerator interior
As the assembly is mostly positioned inside the refrigerator, dismantle some of the inner paneling. To get started, open the doors and remove the right side shelving. (Just pull up to remove the
hooks from the rear brackets and slide them out.)

Next, locate the water filter cover at the top of the refrigerator. Press down the tab to open the covers. Turn the filter counterclockwise and fully remove it. Press the back of the cover panel free of the hinge pin, pull out the whole cover panel and set aside.

Remove the interior access panel in the middle of the right back paneling inside the refrigerator. (This is the panel with the four small holes around the perimeter.) To remove it, insert a flathead screwdriver into each of the holes to depress the locking tabs. For the top two holes, press in toward the opposite hole. For the two lower holes, press the screwdriver down to disengage the tabs. Tilt the panel down and wiggle the bottom free from its mounting tabs and set the panel aside.

Then, remove the upper access panel by inserting the screwdriver into the central hole along the bottom and disengaging the locking tab by pushing it up. Pull the panel out and set aside. The water tank at the back of the refrigerator’s interior is now accessible, as well as the filter head running up the back into the ceiling.

3. Remove old water tank and filter head
The water tank may still contain water. Before removing the old parts, place a towel at the bottom of the refrigerator to catch any leaks.

First, loosen the housing that holds the filter head at the ceiling. Do this by prying open the mounting tabs toward the front of the housing and then rocking the back of the housing free until the housing is supported only by the lines running up to the filter head.

Next, press down the tabs at the top of the blue water inlet valve so you can pull the small tube free from the top. Once it’s free, you can remove the transparent support housing around the tube. Also, pull the water line to the left out of the mounting tabs. Completely separate the housing bracket from around the filter head and set  aside.

Move to the rear of the refrigerator and locate the water inlet tube that was disconnected at the start of the repair. Loosen the screw that holds the tube in place. Push it down and remove the plastic retaining clip from around the tube. Then, remove all the screws holding the lower rear access panel in place. Set the panel aside.

Return to the front of the refrigerator. Start removing the columns of the water tank from the retainer clips. Once they’re all down, carefully pull the water inlet tube into the body of the refrigerator.

4. Install new water tank and filter head
Push inlet tube into the hole at the bottom of the refrigerator. Feed as much of the length through the hole as possible. Next, align the new water tank in the back of the refrigerator so the inlet tube is to the right.

Press the columns of the water tank into the retaining clips until they click and engage. This may have to be done one column at a time to make sure everything fits properly. Return to the rear of the refrigerator. Remove  protective cover at the end of the new inlet tube. Place the old plastic retainer clip on the new tube.

Reattach the rear access panel. Slip the water inlet tube through the bottom cutout and the power cord through the top cutout so nothing gets pinched. Then secure the panel with the screws around the perimeter. Next, attach the water inlet’s retaining clip to the middle of the panel and connect the inlet tube to the water supply line.

Return to the front of the refrigerator. Now install the new filter head attached to the water tank. Take the transport tube support from the old assembly and attach it to the filter head’s inlet tube. Also, attach the filter
housing to the filter head. It should snap into place around the arms at the top of the filter head.

Next, reattach the water tube to the inlet valve. Pry the blue valve slightly forward to make more room. Then, push the tube firmly into the valve. It should go all the way in until reaching the wider portion of the tube. Push  valve back into place.

Fit the longer water line into the groove along the left side of the cavity. Once the tubes are in place, attach the new filter head to the top of the refrigerator. Line up the back of the filter head assembly into the rear of the cavity and then press the cylindrical housing into place. All of the locking tabs should be heard to engage.

5. Reassemble the refrigerator interior.
Start by reattaching the upper inner access panel. Hook the top of the panel over the arms near the filter head assembly. Then, swing the panel until it is flush with the back of the refrigerator. Press firmly into place.

Next, install the lower cover. Slip the bottom of the panel into the groove, and then press the rest of the panel flush with the back of the refrigerator until the locking tabs engage.

Then, install the water filter housing cover: there is a hinge pin on either side of the filter head housing. Slide the matching hole of the hinge at the back of the water filter cover over one arm. Then slightly stretch the other side of the cover to reach around and grab the hinge arm on the other side. Take care not to crack the plastic. Before reattaching the water filter, twist and remove the bypass cap inside the filter head. Twist the water filter into the new filter head clockwise. Then, snap the water filter cover shut. Reinstall the shelves, shut the doors, and
plug in the refrigerator. Be sure to also turn back on the water supply.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

 

 

CE Tech Tips — March 2019

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Emerson TV, LC320EM3FA
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Found shorted diode, D633. Replacing fixed set. NTE146A.

Hitachi TV, 53FDX20B
Reason for Service: No pic or onscreen display but power light does come on.
Solution: Found bad C603 and replaced.  

LG TV, 37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Takes several attempts to turn on set
Solution: Found two bad caps, C114, 10uF/50V and C852, 470uF/10V.

Panasonic TV, TC-37LZ85
Reason for Service:  Dead; no standby 5v or 12V
Solution: Found D7006 leaky in power supply. 15V/1W zenner.

Samsung TV, PN51E550D1FXZA
Reason for Service:  Wi-Fi not working.  Set may cycle on and off.
Solution: Replaced Wi-Fi module. BN59-01148B.

Sceptre TV, X322BV
Reason for Service: Picture was flashing
Solution: Cleaned both ends of LVDS cable and applied Deoxit.

Toshiba TV, 55ZV6T50U
Reason for Service: Dead set
Solution: Replaced relay SR80 and R850, 1.2 ohm/5W.

Vizio TV, VX370E
Reason for Service: Picture solarized
Solution: Replaced AS15-F IC on T-con board.

Zenith TV, H24F36DT
Reason for Service: Remote will not work
Solution: Replacing eeprom, IC6001, fixed set.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repair Business Management Course

Course Details

April 25, 2019, 8:00 am-4:30 pm
Fee, Lunch Included:
$199.99
(By March 15, 2019)
$249.99 (After March 15, 2019)

REGISTER NOW

NOTE: No shows and cancellations after April 20, 2019, will be charged the full cost of registration.


Running any type of service operation comes with many daily challenges. To help you effectively manage your business, Encompass has teamed with the pros from Fred’s Appliance Academy to lead this class. It will cover a number of topics to help keep your repair business running smoothly:

  • Charging for services
  • Marketing to the local service area
  • Recruiting and training new office and field tech staff
  • Part inventory management
  • Warranty billing workflows
  • Routing technicians
  • Managing customer communication

This will be an interactive course with brainstorming workflows and solutions to start making a difference for you and your customers in 2019 and beyond. Please click here for additional details provided by Fred’s.

How to Repair Leaking GE Washer

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

While some malfunctions are more concerning than others, most of them can be easily fixed with a little guidance. To help get you started, we’ve compiled a list of some of the most common maintenance mistakes and component failures which often lead to a leaky washer.

Maintenance Tips

  • Excessive vibrations brought on by an unbalanced washer can cause water to spill out of an appliance as the machine agitates clothing. To determine whether or not a washer is balanced, place a leveler on the main top. If the appliance turns out to be unbalanced, simply correct the problem by adjusting its legs. Some floors though may be too unlevel to solve the issue. If the issue is not addressed, and the washer continues to vibrate uncontrollably, other appliance components may get damaged.
  • Leaks located at the back of the washer can indicate a loose hose connection. Before inspecting the hoses, turn off the appliance’s water
    supply, and pull it machine away from the wall. Start investigating the leak by examining the drain hose, which runs from the drain port on the washer to the standpipe or laundry tub. If either side of the hose feels loose, correct the issue. Or, if they are both intact, move on to the inlet hoses. The machine’s hot and cold inlet hoses run from the inlet valve on the washer to the hot and cold faucets on the laundry room wall. If one or more of the connections are loose, tighten them to stop the leak.
  • Washers are designed to handle a certain amount of detergent. When that amount is continuously surpassed, the soap residue leftover will end up clogging the overflow tube, resulting in puddles on the floor. Stick to the detergent recommendations in the owner’s manual to resolve any type of soap overuse.

                                       GE washer model ​WCSR2080BCC

Appliance Repair Tips

Unplug the appliance and turn off its water supply before starting any repairs. Safety goggles and gloves are needed to protect hands and eyes from sharp objects as you remove and replace damaged components.

The Tub-to-Pump Hose

When the washer tub drains, water travels through the tub-to-pump hose. As an appliance ages, the hose can crack, causing water to leak out. Replacing the damaged tub-to-pump hose is not complicated and should only take a little over an hour.

How to Replace the Tub-to-Pump Hose in Your GE Washer

  1. To gain access to the tub-to-pump hose, remove the washer’s front panel. At the left and right corners of the washer, insert a putty knife in between the main top and the front panel. Slide the putty knife toward the center of the appliance. When the knife makes contact with a locking tab, push down to release the mechanism. Once both tabs are disengaged, tip the front panel back, and take it off the washer.
  2. The tub-to-pump hose can be found in the washer’s lower right corner. Before disconnecting it, place a towel in the area underneath the component. Use pliers to loosen and slide the lower clamp up the hose. Then, pull the bottom half of the hose off the drain pump. A small amount of water is likely to come out of the hose, which should be caught with the towel. Next, use a nut driver to unthread the screw securing the upper hose clamp. Once the clamp is loose, disconnect the top end of the hose from the outer tub. Now the damaged tub-to-pump hose can be removed from the washing machine.
  3. Before discarding the old hose, take the top and bottom clamps off the part so they can be attached to the new drain hose.
  4. Slide the old clamps onto the new tub-to-pump hose. With both clamps attached, go to the washer and install the top end of the hose to the outer tub. Secure the connection by tightening the clamp screw with the nut driver. Then, attach the lower end of the hose to the pump. Using pliers, slide the clamp down the hose to secure the link between the drain pump and the hose.
  5. To complete the repair, reinstall the washer’s front panel. After the appliance is reassembled, plug it in and turn on its water supply. Test the new tub-to-pump hose by washing a load of laundry. If the washer doesn’t leak, the new component resolved the issue.

The Drain Pump

If the washer is leaking during the wash cycle or the drain cycle, there is a good chance it has a faulty drain pump. The drain pump pulls water from the washer tub and pushes it out of the appliance through the outlet hose. If the pump is cracked, water will leak onto the laundry room floor.

How to Replace GE Washer Drain Pump

  1. Start repair by taking off the washer’s front panel. In between the appliance’s main top and front panel are two locking tabs: one is near the right corner and the other is near the left corner. To disengage the tabs, slide a putty knife between the panels and press down. After both tabs are released, lift the front panel up and off the washer.
  2. Locate the drain pump and place a towel underneath it to catch any water that may come out during the repair. Next, disconnect the wire harnesses running to the drain pump. Then, use pliers to loosen the clamps securing the outlet and inlet drain hoses to the pump, and pull the hoses off the drain pump valves. With a socket wrench, unthread the screws holding the pump’s mounting plate to the bottom of the washer. Once the screws are removed, pull the damaged drain pump out of the appliance.
  3. To install the new drain pump, attach its mounting plate to the bottom of the washer. After the drain pump is in place, reconnect the wire harnesses and the outlet and inlet drain hoses. Make sure the hoses are attached properly and the clamps are securely linking the hoses to the pump valves.
  4. With the new drain hose successfully connected, reinstall the washer’s front panel. Once the panel is reattached, plug the appliance back in and turn on the water supply. To ensure the repair worked, test out the machine by running a wash cycle.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

Encompass Holiday Hours

Please note all Encompass locations will close at 3:00 pm Eastern on Monday, Dec. 31. We will be closed on Jan. 1, 2019. This timing coincides with the last pick ups for the day by both UPS and FedEx:

  • UPS will only pick up Air and International orders on Dec. 31. No ground packages will be picked up or delivered.
  • FedEx will pick up Ground and Air packages on Dec. 31, although only Air packages will be transported. All Ground packages will remain at the terminal until Wednesday, Jan. 2.

On behalf of the entire Encompass team, we wish you and your family a wonderful, joyous holiday!

CE Tech Tips — December 2018

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

 

Panasonic TV,  TCL42E3
Reason for Service:  Won’t come on, one blink error code
Solution: LEDs were coming on, but only for a second.  Replaced LED driver board.

Toshiba TV,  50H72
Reason for Service: Dead & F470 blown
Solution:  Replacing C884 and F470 fixed the set.

LG TV,  37LP1DUA
Reason for Service: Immediate shutdown after powering on
Solution: IC851 in the power supply was bad.  SM #L6910.

Audiovox TV VE705, 7” LCD
Reason for Service: Dead set, no standby
Solution: Found bad cap in power supply, 1000uF/25V.

Hitachi TV,  60SDX88B
Reason for Service: Black rectangular bar floating up screen on all inputs; audio low and set may shut down.
Solution: Found and replaced open cap, CN06,  10uF/50V.

Westinghouse TV, TX-47F430S
Reason for Service: Set won’t turn on
Solution: Found bad capacitor on main board.  TC51,  470uF/16V

Samsung TV,  PN50A550
Reason for Service: Relays click when set plugged in. After few seconds, power shuts off then back on.
Solution: Replaced C102, 47uF/6.3V.  If still not working, replace DC to DC converter, MP2363DN.

Zenith TV,  9-1998 module
Reason for Service:  There was vertical foldover when brightness and contrast turned up.
Solution: Found and replaced leaky cap,  CX3233,  47uF/160V

How to Troubleshoot Non-Heating Whirlpool Oven

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

If it wasn’t for your Whirlpool oven model WFG320M0BW, your family wouldn’t enjoy all those delicious meals you make for them. Unfortunately, the more use your oven gets, the more wear and tear its components endure. One of the most common
oven malfunctions failing to heat. Diagnosing and fixing an oven that is producing little to no heat is a repair you can probably handle on your own. To help you troubleshoot a non-heating oven, here’s a list of components known to affect heating:

Safety Reminder: Always unplug an appliance before starting a repair. If you’re working with a gas oven, turn off the gas supply valve. Always wear work gloves and safety goggles when fixing a malfunctioning appliance.

Check Your Gas Supply
Before inspecting any other components in your oven, test the appliance gas supply. If your oven isn’t receiving gas, it won’t be able to heat up. To check the gas supply, simply turn on a cooktop burner. If the burner ignites, gas is entering the appliance. If the burner stays unlit, pull the range away from the wall to ensure the gas cutoff valve is open. Once you confirm the valve is in the open position, contact your gas provider to find out why no gas is coming from the supply valve.

Oven Igniter
The oven igniter should produce enough heat to open the gas valve and ignite gas entering the appliance. Over time, the igniter can weaken, meaning it will take longer to heat up. If the igniter glows for over a minute without a flame igniting, it’s no longer functioning properly.

How to Replace the Oven Igniter in Your Whirlpool Oven

  1. Start the repair by removing the lower access panel from the back of the range. Once the panel is off, pull apart the igniter and gas safety valve wire harnesses.
  2. Open the oven door, and take out the racks. Remove the oven’s lower access panel by lifting the back up first, and then sliding the panel toward the front of the oven.
  3. The oven igniter is located on the side of the burner tube, which runs through the middle of the oven cavity. To remove the faulty oven igniter, detach the burner tube and take it out. To do so, simply unthread the mounting screws securing it to the inside of the oven. Once the burner tube is free, pull it and the oven igniter out of the oven cavity.
  4. Place the burner tube on a flat solid surface, and remove the screws securing the defective oven igniter to the burner tube.
  5. Align the new oven igniter with the mounting bracket on the burner tube. Secure the igniter with screws.
  6. Go back to the range and reinstall the burner tube. Push the igniter wires through the opening on the oven’s rear wall. Reinsert the oven’s lower access panel, and place the oven racks back in the appliance.
  7. At the back of the appliance, reconnect the igniter wire harness with the gas safety valve harness. Replace the lower access panel and secure it with the four screws removed earlier.
  8. Plug the appliance back in, and turn on the gas supply valve. Set oven to preheat and wait for it to warm up to determine if the new oven igniter solved the heating problem.

The Oven Sensor Assembly
The oven sensor and the oven control board work as a team to measure and regulate oven temperature. The sensor detects the temperature inside the oven cavity. If it is defective, the oven will not heat at all or the sensor accuracy will be off by 50 degrees or more.

How to Replace Whirlpool Oven Sensor 

  1. At the back of the oven, disconnect the sensor wire harness. Unthread the two screws securing the oven sensor to the range’s rear panel.
  2. Once the screws are removed, slide the sensor out of the opening at the back of the oven.
  3. Insert the new oven sensor into the hole in the rear panel. Replace the mounting screws to hold the sensor in place. Finally, reconnect the wire harness.
  4. Plug in the range, and turn the gas back on. Test the new sensor by turning the oven on and measuring the temperature inside with an oven thermometer.

Other Contributing Components to Non-Heating Oven Malfunction
The Oven Control Board, as mentioned above, works in conjunction with the oven sensor. While the sensor is more likely to malfunction, the control board can also end up failing. If this happens, the component may inaccurately read the temperature sent from the oven sensor, which can lead to the oven not heating at all or the temperature being significantly wrong. Replacing the defective control board is your best option.

The Gas Safety Valve regulates when gas is and isn’t released into the oven. If the component is working properly, the safety valve will open when the oven igniter begins to glow white hot. A malfunctioning gas safety valve won’t allow gas into the oven, even after the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas. While a defective safety valve can happen, it is a rare occurrence, meaning you should rule out more common malfunctions first. However, if you do discover the gas safety valve is causing a
non-heating oven, replacing the component is the only way to fix the problem.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

CE Tech Tips — November 2018

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Akai TV, PDP4294
Reason for Service: Set won’t start; relay clicks with 6 blinks
Solution: Replaced C523 & C524 in power supply. 0.22uF/400V 

Samsung TV, HL61A650C1FXZA
Reason for Service: Set shuts down after being on for short time
Solution: Found lots of dust on fans and fan intake for the fans.  Cleaning enabled set to operate normally again.

Samsung TV, UN55C6900VFXZA
Reason for Service:
Dead, no blinking codes
Solution: Replaced ICB801 and zener ZDB802.

Sony TV, KDL46HX729
Reason for Service: Dead
Solution:  Replaced power supply, 1-474-306-11  G5 board.

Toshiba TV,  50H72
Reason for Service:  White screen with lines in it
Solution: Found cold solder on the black wire that feeds the convergence IC’s.
Repaired solder and replaced fuse F850 (5A) and both STK392-110 IC’s.

Vizio TV,  VO370M
Reason for Service: Remote not working
Solution: Found CR2 leaky on remote board. 

Westinghouse TV, TX42F430S
Reason for Service: Set seems to come on, (power light on) but no backlights
Solution: Found bad cap on main board: TC51,  470uF/16V. 

Zenith TV, A27A76R  (module  9-1998)
Reason for Service: Picture is too red, green or blue
Solution: Found leaky Q2205 on main and bad solder on Q5102 on CRT board.

Zenith TV, A27A76R
Reason for Service: Vert rolling and shrinking when cold.
Solution: Replaced CX2105, 220 at 35V.

Encompass Now Authorized Supplier of Samsung Warranty Appliance Service Parts

Lawrenceville, Ga., November 1, 2018Encompass Supply Chain Solutions, Inc., a leading provider of Parts Distribution, 3PL and 4PL solutions for a diverse range of finished goods and replacement parts, today announced it is now authorized to supply parts for warranty repairs of Samsung home appliances.

Under an expanded agreement with Samsung Electronics America, Inc. – a global name in leading-edge appliance, electronics, audio, printing products and more – Encompass may distribute service parts for use in Samsung warranty appliance product repairs.

Marking its 65th year of business in 2018, Encompass maintains one of the largest Samsung parts inventories in the country through long-term support of the acclaimed brand for non- and extended warranty repairs of its comprehensive product lines.

“Encompass has supplied Samsung parts for the past 20 years and is thrilled to be strengthening our partnership into warranty parts supply,” said Encompass President and CEO Robert Coolidge. “With this added authorization, Samsung’s service network can rely on Encompass for all their service parts needs.”

Encompass supports service providers from strategically-located facilities in Florida, Georgia and Nevada. Parts – along with helpful resources such as exploded views and 360-degree photographs – are available from its user-friendly, feature-rich website encompass.com. The website was recently modified to accept Samsung claim numbers to expedite warranty orders.

Encompass Senior Vice President of Sales and Marketing Joe Hurley said the supplier expects to increase home appliance parts availability for Samsung’s authorized service network, ensuring enhanced product experience for end users.

“Standing behind their products with strong, consistent aftersales support is instrumental in building and maintaining manufacturer brand loyalty,” said Hurley. “Encompass is fully committed to delivering first-class customer service for Samsung consumers and servicers alike.”

In addition to reinforcing its position as a one-stop supplier through warranty authorizations, Encompass is heavily focused on continually adding original parts for repair of a wide variety of products throughout the home.

 About Encompass Supply Chain Solutions, Inc.

Encompass is a market leader in forward and reverse supply chain management and high-tech repair services for a diverse and expanding range of consumer electronics, computer, major appliances and imaging products.  Encompass provides end-to-end solutions for OEMs, retailers, independent dealers, third-party administrators and consumers.

Encompass manages all stages of the product lifecycle, including finished goods and replacement parts logistics, board repair and product refurbishment services, returns management, asset value recovery and eco-friendly disposal. For more information, please visit solutions.encompass.com and follow us on LinkedIn, Facebook and Twitter.

Repair Business Management Registration

Location: Encompass Training Center
775 Tipton Industrial Drive, Lawrenceville, GA, 30046

April 25, 2019, 8:00 am-4:30 pm
Lunch included

Fee: $249.99
NOTE: No shows and cancellations after April 20, 2019, will be charged the full cost of registration.


Registration

Payment

Please visit our Training Center webpage for more information about location and area hotel discounts.