Author - wpadmin

CE Tech Tips — August 2018

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Samsung TV, LN37A550P3F
Reason for Service:  Normal picture goes to white screen in about a minute
Solution: There’s a bad chip on the T-Con; use freeze spray to find and verify.

Samsung TV,  PN60E7000
Reason for Service:  Might be dead, or comes on for a short time, then turns off
Solution:  Look for bad solder on the FETs. Clean and resolder.

Sony TV,  KDL32S20L
Reason for Service:  Backlight comes on for short time then goes off; 4 blink error
Solution: Look for bad ccfl tubes, shorted FET drivers and/or defective output transformer.

Sony TV,  KDS55A2000
Reason for Service:  Shutdown with 4 blink error
Solution:  Remove back and look for dust in exhaust fan. Cleaning should fix the set.

Panasonic TV,  TCP50U50
Reason for Service:  Shutdown, 8 blink error.
Solution:  Found Q051 shorted on SS Board; DG3D3020CVLW.  Use screw kit also: XYN3-F6FJ-18PK.

Toshiba TV, 46SL412U
Reason for Service: Power LED flashes at turn on, but set won’t start
Solution: Found bad Q30 on main board; replacing fixed set.

Vizio TV, VX37LHDTV10A
Reason for Service: No backlight. Emblem turns amber when set plugged in, then turns white when set turned on. Cannot turn set off without unplugging.
Solution: Power supply voltages okay. Main regulator U7 was bad.  Replacing it fixed set.

Westinghouse TV,  TX42F430S
Reason for Service:  Dead, has amber standby
Solution:  Found bad cap, TC51.  470uF/16V.  Replacing fixed set.

 

How to Replace Whirlpool Oven Insulation

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Ovens have a layer of insulation under the surface to maintain heat for efficient cooking and preventing heat from damaging surrounding cabinets and flooring. This insulation can get damaged over time with water seeping in and causing mold or perhaps mice wedging their way in to nest in the warmth. Regardless of the issue, replacing oven insulation can save on energy bills and replacement costs.

To get started on replacing insulation inside a Whirlpool oven, order an insulation layer — part# WPW10208653, available at encompass.com —  and follow these steps:

While replacing insulation is simple, it can be tricky to access. The majority of this process involves dismantling the oven to freely access the material on the sides and top of the oven. Use a screwdriver and a wood or plastic block to help make it easier.

1. Unplug oven and move to center of  room
During the repair, you will need to access the oven’s internal parts. While you will not be directly manipulating the wiring, leaving the power on will be dangerous. So unplug the oven, or flip the correct circuit breaker if it is wired directly into the house’s power.

Next, pull the whole oven out and into the center of the room. While you dismantle the appliance, you will be removing the side panels. Make sure you have plenty of workspace to set down these panels.

2. Dismantle machine
Remove oven door
Open the door and locate the hinges on either side of the door bottom. Snap open the hinge locks holding the door in place. Then, grab the sides of the door, close it halfway, and slide the door forward so the hinges slip out of the oven. This part is heavy and fragile, so be prepared for the weight. Set it aside on a cushioned surface without putting pressure on the front glass.

Remove rear access panel
At the back of the oven, loosen all 10 screws securing the top rear access panel. Next, pull the panel free and set it aside. This will let you move the control panel up and out of the way once you dismantle the cooktop.

Remove cooktop
At the front of the oven, locate the two corner screws under the lip of the stove that hold the cooktop in place. Unscrew  and set them aside. Then, remove the cooktop: lift the front at a 45-degree angle and then slide the raised back free from
under the control panel. Carefully set this part aside.

Now you can see the panel holding the top elements in place. Unscrew the sides so you can lift this panel up later. Do not fully remove it or disconnect the wiring.

Remove the side panels
The side panels are held in place with screws along the sides of the back panel and more screws under the top control panel. Remove screws at the back of the machine and then move the control panel back out of the way to remove the remainder of the screws. Then, starting on one side, lift up the front corner of the element panel and pull on the back of the side panel so it swings free. It may remain secured to the front of the oven on the mounting tabs, so carefully pull or swing it free. Set the first panel aside and repeat this step on the other side panel.

Access top sheet of insulation under elements
While you don’t want to fully remove the remainder of the top paneling, it is blocking your access to the insulation. Tilt the element panel up and set the front on a wooden block. Then, unscrew the door latch and set it loosely inside the machine.

Remove inner side panels.
A connecting rod runs across the top of the oven under the panel. It is attached to second side panels. Unlatch this rod and set it aside so you can start removing the panels. Each second side panel has two screws holding it in place. Remove the screws and lift the panels free, setting them to the side. Both panels must be removed.

3. Remove old insulation
The insulation should be right under the second side panels you just removed, as well as the tilted top element panel. Carefully start prying the edges of the insulation loose. Excess material will be pushed under the sides of the appliance. While nothing is holding the insulation into place. fibers may be caught against any sharp metal edges. Make sure every edge of the insulation is loose and that the material is hanging loosely from the top of the appliance.

Next, at the top of one of the sides, start gently pulling the material across the top to free it. Stop if you feel any resistance, and try to remove the insulation in a single piece. If you’re removing old insulation because of mice damage, inspect the machine for any loose tufts. Set all of the insulation aside.

4. Install new insulation
Carefully push a short edge of the insulation across the top panel. The edge with perpendicular cuts should be oriented to the rear of the machine. Once the short edge has reached the other side of the top, start pulling that side down until the material is evenly distributed across both side panels.

Tuck excess insulation under the oven body. Make sure both sides have enough excess material so the friction holds the material in place. The insulation should be taut but not tight, and the material should be slid behind the side panel hinges.

5. Reassemble oven
Reverse the dismantling steps by starting with the second set of side panels. Mount them into place and retighten the screws. Slip the connecting rod back across the underside of the top. Latch it to both sides of the appliance. Next, reinstall the door latch with the two screws. Remove the block and carefully lower the top element panel back into place.

Reinstall the two outer side panels. Slip the front edge of each panel into the mounting tabs, then swing them into alignment toward the rear of the machine. As you’re moving the side panels, make sure the top panel is lifted up and out of the way. Once each panel clicks into place, retighten the screws along the edges of the rear panel and under the top control panel. Then, swing the control panel back into position and screw it in place.

Before you reinstall the cooktop, replace all screws you took out along the top panel. Then, slide the back of the cooktop into place under the control panel and lower the front until it’s flat along the top of the oven. Tighten the screws to lock in place.

Put the top rear access panel in position and replace the oven door. Make sure you close the hinge locks and make sure the weight of the door is supported before you let the door go.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tips!

Dryer Troubleshooting

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Back in 2009, John La Grou, an electronics innovator, gave a Ted Talk on how to prevent home and office fires with a “smarter type of electrical outlet.” John wanted to look his best. The night before he was to give his Ted Talk, he did a load of laundry. After the wash cycle completed, he threw the load in the dryer and went to bed. Upon rising, he went to the dryer to find that his laundry was still as damp as when he had pulled it from the washing machine.

He only had a few hours before his presentation. In dismay, he Googled the keywords “dryer won’t heat up.” Lacking the time to do any troubleshooting on his own, he called a reputable appliance repair company and was greeted by a kind and patient customer service representative who asked a few basic questions. The inquiries seemed simple, but were
intended to eliminate oversights that could happen to anyone — especially when your mind is overloaded.

When troubleshooting, it’s best to start with the most obvious and simple repairs first, working toward the more uncommon and difficult repairs. The customer service rep wanted to know:

  • Does the dryer run at all?
  • If the dryer does not run, have you looked to see if the dryer is plugged in?
  • If the dryer is plugged in but still does not run, have you checked the circuit breaker switch? There may have been a circuitry overload that tripped a breaker switch.
  • If the dryer is not on a circuit breaker system, have you checked for a blown fuse?
  • Have you checked the selector switch to see if you set it to air dry only?
  • When you open the dryer door, do you smell mold and mildew? This could indicate poor drainage or some type of moisture leak from previous drying sessions and definitely increases the chances of an electrical short. If the washer is leaking, some of that water could have invaded the dryer and become the source of moisture.

Asking these questions may seem redundant, but could save the expense of an unnecessary service call. There are a few reasons for a dryer to not heat; this article focuses on two.

Tools Needed

  • Multi-meter
  • 5/16th nut driver
  • Flathead screwdriver

The multimeter is the most important tool in an appliance repair toolkit. Give particular consideration on checking for continuity. In reference to electrical components, continuity is simply the unbroken flow of electricity from its power source and distributed through the appliance components.

A break in continuity in any part of the electrical system would indicate that electrical current is not flowing to that component. The good news is that if you find a break in continuity, you will usually have found the part that needs to be repaired or replaced.

Unplug the dryer before beginning any work. Be careful while you work around sharp edges and delicate components. You don’t want to cut yourself or damage another component.

Testing the Thermostat for Continuity
The high limit thermostat is actuated by temperature change. It is located behind the back panel and is attached to the heating element. The thermostat must be removed (see below) and tested at room temperature. Testing for continuity will determine if there is an unbroken flow of current. The following guide is for an analog multimeter:

  • Dial the ohms resistance to the smallest possible setting.
  • Calibrate the multimeter by touching the probes together and adjust the display needle to zero.
  • Next, place a probe on either of the thermostat terminals and the other probe on the other thermostat terminal
  • If the multimeter reads zero ohms of resistance, the thermostat has continuity.
  • If the multimeter display needle does not move or change, there is no continuity and the thermostat should be replaced.

Thermostats should show continuity at room temperature and should shut off when heated up. If it doesn’t turn off when heated, the dryer could overheat and increase the chance of a home fire. If the thermostat didn’t test well for continuity, replace it. It’s an inexpensive repair and shouldn’t take longer than 15 minutes to complete.

How to Remove and Replace the Thermostat on a Whirlpool dryer

  • The thermostat is attached to the heating element located behind the back panel.
  • Remove the back panel.
  • Disconnect the wire from the old high-limit thermostat.
  • Detach the thermostat from the heating element terminal – test for continuity (see above).
  • If the thermostat failed, replace it.
  • Position the new thermostat and secure with two screws.
  • Reconnect the wire to the top terminal.
  • Use the wire that came with the thermostat replacement package and connects the thermostat to the heating element.

The thermostat is designed to turn off at high temperature. If it doesn’t shut off when heated, the dryer itself could overheat, increasing the chance of a home fire. This is one reason to not throw your clothes in the dryer and leave the house. Never leave a dryer running while you’re not at home.

Testing the Thermal Fuse for Continuity

  • With a multimeter, set the ohms resistance to the smallest possible setting.
  • Calibrate the multimeter by touching the probes together and adjust the display needle to zero.
  • Next, place a probe on the thermal fuse terminal and the other probe on the other terminal.
  • If the multimeter reads zero ohms of resistance, the thermal fuse has continuity.
  • If the multimeter display needle does not move or change, there is no continuity and the thermal fuse should be replaced.

You won’t be able to determine if a thermal fuse has failed by simply looking at it. It must be removed and tested for continuity.

How to Remove and Replace the Thermal Fuse

  • Disconnect the wires to the old thermal fuse, remove the screw that holds the fuse in
    place, and remove the old thermal fuse.
  • Next, install the new thermal fuse with the mounting screw.
  • Reconnect the wires.
  • Replace the back panel.
  • Plug the dryer back in to make sure it’s functioning properly.

Oftentimes a failed thermal fuse is caused by a clogged venting system. Ensure the venting system is free of lint and any other material that may have inadvertently become lodged inside. It is recommended that you check the venting system after you change the thermal fuse.

To inspect the dryer vents, turn the dryer on and inspect the vent flap to see if it opens when air is being pushed through the system. If it opens, you’re good to go. If not, it means something is preventing air flow to escape. Dryer venting systems should be inspected regularly.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tips!

Electric Range Troubleshooting

When you’re in the middle of preparing a tasty meal, you’re likely not giving much thought to the inner workings of your electric stovetop…until something goes wrong that is.  Following is some insight into how ranges work and what could be wrong when you need it the most.

Understanding How an Electric Range Works

The more you know how something works, the easier it is to diagnose problems. While this post centers on electric cooktop repair, it’s helpful to have a basic understanding how the range works:

  • Electricity from a power source is delivered to a terminal block inside the range through three large wires in the power cord.
  • Electrical power is then distributed to components that operate various range features, such as thermostat, heating elements, and  heating coils that comprise most of the cooktop.
  • Heating elements are insulated coils with a metal covering that creates heat and electrical resistance to achieve the desired temperature.
  • Range cooktops come equipped with either a conventional or radiant burner. The radiant burner sits underneath a ceramic surface that was designed for better heat distribution.
  • Each element is supported by its own switch that turns the burner on and sends a message to the thermostat to heat to the desired temperature. The oven is designed to effectively maximize heat and air control.
  • Heat levels are controlled by switches and thermostats. Switches control the on and off, while the thermostat controls the temperature level.
  • One type of switch for electric range tops is an infinite-heat switch, which pulsates power to heating elements on an as-needed basis, maintaining the correct level of heat.

Troubleshooting

#1. Burner Won’t Heat Because of an Electrical Short
Grease and moisture can seep into the power source receptacle of plug-in burners. This can lead to arcing creating an intermittent electrical short that may hardly be noticed. However, the element will eventually burn out.

Solution

  • Regularly clean burner element tips and inside of the receptacle to prevent a burner from shorting.
  • When a heating element must be replaced, be sure to replace the power source receptacle too.
  • Do not immerse the burner in water to clean. The plug-in tips on the burner element contain porcelain and will absorb water. The burner may appear dry, but even a small drop of water could cause serious electrical shock.
  • To prevent cross-contamination, return the same heating element to the receptacle it came from.
  • Use a drip pan to capture grease and oil, but do not line drip pans with foil. The light from the element reflects off the foil back to the element, causing hot spots that will render the heating element useless.

 

#2. Burned Out Element
Each burner element is controlled by its own switch. When the switch selector knob is turned to a particular heat setting, the switch enables voltage to travel to the element, closing the circuit and causing the element to heat. If the element does not heat, the component has burned out. How to manage this repair:

  • Inspect a conventional element for any blistering or breaks in the coil. If there are visible breaks or bubbling, the circuit has been interrupted and the element needs to be replaced.
  • When inspecting the coils that sit underneath a ceramic top, look for any breaks or burn spots. Replace the coil if any anomalies are visible.
  • If there is no visible damage, check for continuity with a multi-meter.

Solution
Replace the burned-out heating element.

#3. Burned Out Receptacle
If the heating element test proves it is in good shape, assess the power receptacle:

  • Burned out receptacles interrupt voltage sent to the heating element.
  • Inspect contacts for visible burn marks or damage.

Solution
If there is visible damage, replace the power receptacle.

#4. Loose or Burnt Wire Connection
As you work your way through troubleshooting, be sure to look for any loose or burnt wires.

  • It is common for element power supply wires to burn out near the element. If this is the case, you will see visible burn marks. If a wire is loose, try wiggling it back onto its connection.

Solution
Replace damaged or burnt wires, as well as the power receptacle and heating element.

#5. Defective Surface Element Switch
The heating element switch regulates the voltage that controls how much heat is displaced to the coils. When the element reaches the desired temperature, the switch shuts off the voltage. To maintain the designated temperature, this cycle continues throughout the cooking process.

  • A defective switch may prevent the element from working at all.
  • Try simply taking a similarly sized element and plug it in (see below for directions on how to replace a plug-in burner).
  • If the new element fails to work, suspect the switch.

Solution
Replace the element switch.

How to Replace a Plug-in Burner

  •  Plug-in burners are commonly used in General Electric, RCA, Hotpoint, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, and Kenmore ranges.
  • When doing this repair, be careful to avoid any sharp edges.
  • Remember Safety First! Before beginning any work on the range, unplug it from the power source.
  • Once the range is unplugged, grasp the damaged burner by the outer coil, lift it up and pull straight out.
  • Replace the burner by sliding the prongs into the terminal receptacle.
  • Pull the burner forward to lock it in place.
  • Reconnect the range to the wall outlet and turn the new burner switch to on.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tips!

Replacing Terminal Block on Whirlpool Oven

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the
accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

The oven terminal block provides a safe connection between the power cord and wiring. If it burns out or any of the terminals break, the part needs to be replaced. Order part number 8203546 for your Whirlpool oven and follow these steps:

1. Unplug the oven or flip the circuit breaker. This repair focuses solely on wiring and electrical parts, so there should be no power
flowing to the appliance.
2. Remove the access panel on the terminal pull. Pull the oven away from the wall and move to the back of the appliance. Locate the
square access panel on the lower half of the back and remove the two screws holding it in place. Lift the panel away.
3. Remove the wiring around the terminal block. Take out the three nuts holding the terminal block in place. Next, pull the three bottom
wires away from the terminals and fold them to the side. Next, remove the top wiring. Take a picture of the wiring before you start so you remember the configuration. After that, loosen the screw holding the grounding strap in place around the middle terminal and remove.
4. Remove the terminal block and install the new one. Loosen the two screws holding the block in place and set them aside. Next, pull the
terminal block free of the box. Hold the new part in place and align it with the screw holes. Tighten the two screws.
5. Reattach the wiring. In this step, work backward from how you removed the wiring in Step 3. Begin by inserting the ground strip around the middle terminal and re-securing the screw. Then, slip the black, white and red wiring in place from left to right and put the nuts back in position. Next, reattach the bottom wire clamps to each terminal and tighten the second set of nuts. Ensure all of the connections are tight, especially the grounding strip.
6. Put the access panel cover back in place. Slip the square cover over the terminal block and re-tighten the two screws holding it in
place.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.