Author - wpadmin

CE Tech Tips — October 2018

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Hitachi TV, 57UWX20B
Reason for Service: No video, OSD okay; HD signal has video
Solution: Replaced open L306.

LG TV, 47LM6700
Reason for Service: Dead, 2 blink error
Solution: Found shorted cap in power supply, C603.  220pf/1000V

Panasonic TV, TCL42E3
Reason for Service:  Won’t come on, one blink error code
Solution: LEDs coming on, but only for a second.  Replaced LED driver board.

Samsung TV, LN32A300J1DXZA
Reason for Service:  Picture too bright and washed out
Solution:  Replacing U6 on T-Con fixed set.  AS15-G

Samsung TV, UN55C6500VF
Reason for Service:  Dead
Solution: Replacing FET Q9201 in power supply fixed set. FQU5N40TU

Sharp TV, LC-60C6400U
Reason for Service: One long, one short error when set plugged in
Solution: Reset lamp errors.

Sony Plasma, KE42M1
Reason for Service: Screen intermittently dark, but sound okay
Solution: Replacing the following fixed set: IC6701, C6705, and C6708.

Toshiba TV, 47ZV650U
Reason for Service:  Set won’t start
Solution:  Replaced R850, 1.8 ohm/5W and relay.

Vizio TV,  GV52LFHDTV10A
Reason for Service: When set turned on, has white screen and no functions
Solution: Found bad regulator, (U33), on main board.

Inner Workings of Microwaves

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Although microwave ovens vary in design, they are virtually all similar in function. Most models are equipped with preset cooking times, programmed according to the basic popularity of certain food items, such as popcorn. Microwaves also have power level setting and timing options for food items not included in the pre-set modules.

After the desired cooking setting has been chosen and the start button pressed, the control board sends 120 volts of electricity traveling through a series of components inside your microwave and converts it into high-powered radio waves that cook your food. Once the radio waves are inside the cooking area, they penetrate the food from the outside in causing moisture in the food to vibrate intensely. It is this vibration that generates the heat that cooks the food.

Models equipped with a motorized turntable, rotate food so that radio waves can cook the food uniformly. For more, watch this  5-minute video for a deeper understanding of how a microwave oven works. Here are some tips to deal with operational issues:

How to Remove and Replace the Magnetron in a Microwave Not Heating
If your microwave fails to warm or cook your food, it’s possible that the magnetron will need to be replaced. Due to the electrical danger involved, it’s recommended that this service be performed by a professional appliance repair company; here are the repair basics:

Tools Needed

  • Two insulated screwdrivers
  • Needle nose pliers
  • # 20 Torx screwdriver
  • Phillips screwdriver

The following procedure is for a Whirlpool microwave that sits above the range. Servicing will take some time and patience to complete. Several screws must be removed to access the magnetron. Place the screws in a container to avoid misplacement and then:

  • Remove turntable and set aside.
  • Using Phillips bit with electrical drill, dismount microwave by removing two screws that hold it to kitchen cabinet.
  • Tilt microwave toward you at about 45-degree angle and lift it off rear bracket that holds it in place on kitchen wall.
  • Remove grill and set aside.
  • Flip microwave on its back and remove eight Phillips-style screws. When completed, flip microwave back to its original position.
  • Remove 10 Phillips screws that hold microwave wrap in place. Remove rear cover and set aside.
  • Now remove eight more screws from top of microwave cover.
  • Don’t forget to remove two screws that hold blower cover in place. Remove cover and set aside.
  • With all exterior screws removed, you should be able to grab sides of cover and gently pull toward yourself, lift it from its place and set aside.
  • Remove panel that protects diode and capacitor.
  • Since capacitor retains residual voltage that could result in serious shock, you are going to short out remaining electricity.
  • Place metal end of one insulated screwdriver on one capacitor terminal and place  other insulated screwdriver on other tab. Cross screwdrivers and hold them together, metal to metal. You should hear pop or see spark discharging any
    remaining voltage in capacitor. To be safe, perform this task twice. After discharging residual voltage, and with microwave unplugged, it should be safe to proceed with removing magnetron.
  • Access magnetron by removing three Phillips type screws that hold waveguide to rear panel. The waveguide is a plastic tube-like guide that directs radio waves to inside of microwave.
  • Before removing waveguide, remove power cord ground wire from rear panel.
  • Remove power cord by sliding it out of its guide and set aside to keep out of the way.
  • Remove last screw holding waveguide in place and carefully manipulate waveguide from its place and set aside. There is one more part to remove before you can access magnetron.
  • Remove magnetron thermostat, which is held in place with two Phillips screws. Gently pull thermostat away from magnetron.
  • Use needle nose pliers to disconnect locking tabs from magnetron. Pinch tabs inward until you feel release and pull wire away from  tab. It does not matter in what order these wire tabs are reconnected to new magnetron; they are just
    completing a circuit.
  • Use #20 Torx screwdriver to remove four screws that hold magnetron in position. Lift old magnetron from its location and set aside. You are now ready to install new magnetron and return microwave to its previous state. You are going to pretty much do everything in reverse order, but following is a quick go-to guide that will help ensure you reassemble all parts and screws to their previous locations. It is no good to finally get the microwave back together only to discover the blower fan cover was not reinstalled, or worst yet, the waveguide.
    ● Install the new magnetron (two torx screws).
    ● Reconnect wire tabs.
    ● Return magnetron thermostat to proper location (two Phillips screws).
    ● Reinstall waveguide cover (three Phillips screws).
    ● Slide power cord into its guide.
    ● Reconnect power cord ground wire to rear panel.
    ● Reinstall high voltage protective cover (two Phillips screws).
    ● Reinstall cover, and don’t forget to feed power cord through fan opening.
    ● Ensure cover is flush with panel by placing slide into panel and ensure no gaps exist on either side.
    ● Reinstall back screws first to keep cover in place.
    ● Replace fan cover, making sure to slide tabs into designated slots.
    ● Reinstall all screws in top panels.
    ● Flip microwave on its back and reinstall the eight Phillips screws.
    ● Flip upright and replace grill, ensuring tabs line up to designated slots. Once grill is in place, use two Phillips screws to  secure. Do not over tighten any screw used to hold plastic part in place as plastic could crack or break.
    ● Enlist help to hold and balance microwave as you line it up with bracket that holds unit to wall.
    ● Feed power cord through designated hole in kitchen cabinet.
    ● Reinstall the two Phillips screws that anchor top of microwave to bottom of  kitchen cabinet.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

CE Tech Tips — September 2018

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

LG TV,  47LH41UE
Reason for Service:  Dead
Solution: Replaced D601 diode pack. Check insulation for diode pack to heat sink and screw insulator.

RCA TV, D52W20,  (ITC222)
Reason for Service: Picture normal with bright set low, but distorts and stretches when brightness is adjusted up.
Solution: Check DI106 and DI032.

Samsung TV, HL61A650C1FXZA
Reason for Service: Set won’t come on.  Power light cycles on, then off, on then off, etc.
Solution: Replaced ballast cap C20, and two open caps in the power supply.  C801S & C802S.

Samsung TV, HL72A650C1FXZA
Reason for Service: At turn on, lamp flickers then set turns off.
Solution: This was caused by two bad caps in main power supply.  C802 & C810; both 470 at 200V.

Samsung TV,  PN43E450A
Reason for Service:  Set won’t start or shuts down intermittently.
Solution:  Pin 1 of CN801 not fully seated in connector.  Reseating pin fixed the set.

Sharp TV, LC46LE830U
Reason for Service: Shutdown, error was 2 slow then 5 fast blinks.
Solution: Replaced the power board: RUNTKA790WJQZ. 

Sony TV, KDL32L504
Reason for Service:  Dead, maybe lightning
Solution: Replaced IC6102,  #670880101

Toshiba TV,  46XV648U
Reason for Service:  Dead
Solution:  In power supply, found R850 bad.  1.8 ohm, 5W.  Also replaced relays SR80 & SR81.

CE Tech Tips — August 2018

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Samsung TV, LN37A550P3F
Reason for Service:  Normal picture goes to white screen in about a minute
Solution: There’s a bad chip on the T-Con; use freeze spray to find and verify.

Samsung TV,  PN60E7000
Reason for Service:  Might be dead, or comes on for a short time, then turns off
Solution:  Look for bad solder on the FETs. Clean and resolder.

Sony TV,  KDL32S20L
Reason for Service:  Backlight comes on for short time then goes off; 4 blink error
Solution: Look for bad ccfl tubes, shorted FET drivers and/or defective output transformer.

Sony TV,  KDS55A2000
Reason for Service:  Shutdown with 4 blink error
Solution:  Remove back and look for dust in exhaust fan. Cleaning should fix the set.

Panasonic TV,  TCP50U50
Reason for Service:  Shutdown, 8 blink error.
Solution:  Found Q051 shorted on SS Board; DG3D3020CVLW.  Use screw kit also: XYN3-F6FJ-18PK.

Toshiba TV, 46SL412U
Reason for Service: Power LED flashes at turn on, but set won’t start
Solution: Found bad Q30 on main board; replacing fixed set.

Vizio TV, VX37LHDTV10A
Reason for Service: No backlight. Emblem turns amber when set plugged in, then turns white when set turned on. Cannot turn set off without unplugging.
Solution: Power supply voltages okay. Main regulator U7 was bad.  Replacing it fixed set.

Westinghouse TV,  TX42F430S
Reason for Service:  Dead, has amber standby
Solution:  Found bad cap, TC51.  470uF/16V.  Replacing fixed set.

 

Dryer Troubleshooting

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Back in 2009, John La Grou, an electronics innovator, gave a Ted Talk on how to prevent home and office fires with a “smarter type of electrical outlet.” John wanted to look his best. The night before he was to give his Ted Talk, he did a load of laundry. After the wash cycle completed, he threw the load in the dryer and went to bed. Upon rising, he went to the dryer to find that his laundry was still as damp as when he had pulled it from the washing machine.

He only had a few hours before his presentation. In dismay, he Googled the keywords “dryer won’t heat up.” Lacking the time to do any troubleshooting on his own, he called a reputable appliance repair company and was greeted by a kind and patient customer service representative who asked a few basic questions. The inquiries seemed simple, but were
intended to eliminate oversights that could happen to anyone — especially when your mind is overloaded.

When troubleshooting, it’s best to start with the most obvious and simple repairs first, working toward the more uncommon and difficult repairs. The customer service rep wanted to know:

  • Does the dryer run at all?
  • If the dryer does not run, have you looked to see if the dryer is plugged in?
  • If the dryer is plugged in but still does not run, have you checked the circuit breaker switch? There may have been a circuitry overload that tripped a breaker switch.
  • If the dryer is not on a circuit breaker system, have you checked for a blown fuse?
  • Have you checked the selector switch to see if you set it to air dry only?
  • When you open the dryer door, do you smell mold and mildew? This could indicate poor drainage or some type of moisture leak from previous drying sessions and definitely increases the chances of an electrical short. If the washer is leaking, some of that water could have invaded the dryer and become the source of moisture.

Asking these questions may seem redundant, but could save the expense of an unnecessary service call. There are a few reasons for a dryer to not heat; this article focuses on two.

Tools Needed

  • Multi-meter
  • 5/16th nut driver
  • Flathead screwdriver

The multimeter is the most important tool in an appliance repair toolkit. Give particular consideration on checking for continuity. In reference to electrical components, continuity is simply the unbroken flow of electricity from its power source and distributed through the appliance components.

A break in continuity in any part of the electrical system would indicate that electrical current is not flowing to that component. The good news is that if you find a break in continuity, you will usually have found the part that needs to be repaired or replaced.

Unplug the dryer before beginning any work. Be careful while you work around sharp edges and delicate components. You don’t want to cut yourself or damage another component.

Testing the Thermostat for Continuity
The high limit thermostat is actuated by temperature change. It is located behind the back panel and is attached to the heating element. The thermostat must be removed (see below) and tested at room temperature. Testing for continuity will determine if there is an unbroken flow of current. The following guide is for an analog multimeter:

  • Dial the ohms resistance to the smallest possible setting.
  • Calibrate the multimeter by touching the probes together and adjust the display needle to zero.
  • Next, place a probe on either of the thermostat terminals and the other probe on the other thermostat terminal
  • If the multimeter reads zero ohms of resistance, the thermostat has continuity.
  • If the multimeter display needle does not move or change, there is no continuity and the thermostat should be replaced.

Thermostats should show continuity at room temperature and should shut off when heated up. If it doesn’t turn off when heated, the dryer could overheat and increase the chance of a home fire. If the thermostat didn’t test well for continuity, replace it. It’s an inexpensive repair and shouldn’t take longer than 15 minutes to complete.

How to Remove and Replace the Thermostat on a Whirlpool dryer

  • The thermostat is attached to the heating element located behind the back panel.
  • Remove the back panel.
  • Disconnect the wire from the old high-limit thermostat.
  • Detach the thermostat from the heating element terminal – test for continuity (see above).
  • If the thermostat failed, replace it.
  • Position the new thermostat and secure with two screws.
  • Reconnect the wire to the top terminal.
  • Use the wire that came with the thermostat replacement package and connects the thermostat to the heating element.

The thermostat is designed to turn off at high temperature. If it doesn’t shut off when heated, the dryer itself could overheat, increasing the chance of a home fire. This is one reason to not throw your clothes in the dryer and leave the house. Never leave a dryer running while you’re not at home.

Testing the Thermal Fuse for Continuity

  • With a multimeter, set the ohms resistance to the smallest possible setting.
  • Calibrate the multimeter by touching the probes together and adjust the display needle to zero.
  • Next, place a probe on the thermal fuse terminal and the other probe on the other terminal.
  • If the multimeter reads zero ohms of resistance, the thermal fuse has continuity.
  • If the multimeter display needle does not move or change, there is no continuity and the thermal fuse should be replaced.

You won’t be able to determine if a thermal fuse has failed by simply looking at it. It must be removed and tested for continuity.

How to Remove and Replace the Thermal Fuse

  • Disconnect the wires to the old thermal fuse, remove the screw that holds the fuse in
    place, and remove the old thermal fuse.
  • Next, install the new thermal fuse with the mounting screw.
  • Reconnect the wires.
  • Replace the back panel.
  • Plug the dryer back in to make sure it’s functioning properly.

Oftentimes a failed thermal fuse is caused by a clogged venting system. Ensure the venting system is free of lint and any other material that may have inadvertently become lodged inside. It is recommended that you check the venting system after you change the thermal fuse.

To inspect the dryer vents, turn the dryer on and inspect the vent flap to see if it opens when air is being pushed through the system. If it opens, you’re good to go. If not, it means something is preventing air flow to escape. Dryer venting systems should be inspected regularly.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tips!

Electric Range Troubleshooting

When you’re in the middle of preparing a tasty meal, you’re likely not giving much thought to the inner workings of your electric stovetop…until something goes wrong that is.  Following is some insight into how ranges work and what could be wrong when you need it the most.

Understanding How an Electric Range Works

The more you know how something works, the easier it is to diagnose problems. While this post centers on electric cooktop repair, it’s helpful to have a basic understanding how the range works:

  • Electricity from a power source is delivered to a terminal block inside the range through three large wires in the power cord.
  • Electrical power is then distributed to components that operate various range features, such as thermostat, heating elements, and  heating coils that comprise most of the cooktop.
  • Heating elements are insulated coils with a metal covering that creates heat and electrical resistance to achieve the desired temperature.
  • Range cooktops come equipped with either a conventional or radiant burner. The radiant burner sits underneath a ceramic surface that was designed for better heat distribution.
  • Each element is supported by its own switch that turns the burner on and sends a message to the thermostat to heat to the desired temperature. The oven is designed to effectively maximize heat and air control.
  • Heat levels are controlled by switches and thermostats. Switches control the on and off, while the thermostat controls the temperature level.
  • One type of switch for electric range tops is an infinite-heat switch, which pulsates power to heating elements on an as-needed basis, maintaining the correct level of heat.

Troubleshooting

#1. Burner Won’t Heat Because of an Electrical Short
Grease and moisture can seep into the power source receptacle of plug-in burners. This can lead to arcing creating an intermittent electrical short that may hardly be noticed. However, the element will eventually burn out.

Solution

  • Regularly clean burner element tips and inside of the receptacle to prevent a burner from shorting.
  • When a heating element must be replaced, be sure to replace the power source receptacle too.
  • Do not immerse the burner in water to clean. The plug-in tips on the burner element contain porcelain and will absorb water. The burner may appear dry, but even a small drop of water could cause serious electrical shock.
  • To prevent cross-contamination, return the same heating element to the receptacle it came from.
  • Use a drip pan to capture grease and oil, but do not line drip pans with foil. The light from the element reflects off the foil back to the element, causing hot spots that will render the heating element useless.

 

#2. Burned Out Element
Each burner element is controlled by its own switch. When the switch selector knob is turned to a particular heat setting, the switch enables voltage to travel to the element, closing the circuit and causing the element to heat. If the element does not heat, the component has burned out. How to manage this repair:

  • Inspect a conventional element for any blistering or breaks in the coil. If there are visible breaks or bubbling, the circuit has been interrupted and the element needs to be replaced.
  • When inspecting the coils that sit underneath a ceramic top, look for any breaks or burn spots. Replace the coil if any anomalies are visible.
  • If there is no visible damage, check for continuity with a multi-meter.

Solution
Replace the burned-out heating element.

#3. Burned Out Receptacle
If the heating element test proves it is in good shape, assess the power receptacle:

  • Burned out receptacles interrupt voltage sent to the heating element.
  • Inspect contacts for visible burn marks or damage.

Solution
If there is visible damage, replace the power receptacle.

#4. Loose or Burnt Wire Connection
As you work your way through troubleshooting, be sure to look for any loose or burnt wires.

  • It is common for element power supply wires to burn out near the element. If this is the case, you will see visible burn marks. If a wire is loose, try wiggling it back onto its connection.

Solution
Replace damaged or burnt wires, as well as the power receptacle and heating element.

#5. Defective Surface Element Switch
The heating element switch regulates the voltage that controls how much heat is displaced to the coils. When the element reaches the desired temperature, the switch shuts off the voltage. To maintain the designated temperature, this cycle continues throughout the cooking process.

  • A defective switch may prevent the element from working at all.
  • Try simply taking a similarly sized element and plug it in (see below for directions on how to replace a plug-in burner).
  • If the new element fails to work, suspect the switch.

Solution
Replace the element switch.

How to Replace a Plug-in Burner

  •  Plug-in burners are commonly used in General Electric, RCA, Hotpoint, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, and Kenmore ranges.
  • When doing this repair, be careful to avoid any sharp edges.
  • Remember Safety First! Before beginning any work on the range, unplug it from the power source.
  • Once the range is unplugged, grasp the damaged burner by the outer coil, lift it up and pull straight out.
  • Replace the burner by sliding the prongs into the terminal receptacle.
  • Pull the burner forward to lock it in place.
  • Reconnect the range to the wall outlet and turn the new burner switch to on.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tips!

Replacing Terminal Block on Whirlpool Oven

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the
accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

The oven terminal block provides a safe connection between the power cord and wiring. If it burns out or any of the terminals break, the part needs to be replaced. Order part number 8203546 for your Whirlpool oven and follow these steps:

1. Unplug the oven or flip the circuit breaker. This repair focuses solely on wiring and electrical parts, so there should be no power
flowing to the appliance.
2. Remove the access panel on the terminal pull. Pull the oven away from the wall and move to the back of the appliance. Locate the
square access panel on the lower half of the back and remove the two screws holding it in place. Lift the panel away.
3. Remove the wiring around the terminal block. Take out the three nuts holding the terminal block in place. Next, pull the three bottom
wires away from the terminals and fold them to the side. Next, remove the top wiring. Take a picture of the wiring before you start so you remember the configuration. After that, loosen the screw holding the grounding strap in place around the middle terminal and remove.
4. Remove the terminal block and install the new one. Loosen the two screws holding the block in place and set them aside. Next, pull the
terminal block free of the box. Hold the new part in place and align it with the screw holes. Tighten the two screws.
5. Reattach the wiring. In this step, work backward from how you removed the wiring in Step 3. Begin by inserting the ground strip around the middle terminal and re-securing the screw. Then, slip the black, white and red wiring in place from left to right and put the nuts back in position. Next, reattach the bottom wire clamps to each terminal and tighten the second set of nuts. Ensure all of the connections are tight, especially the grounding strip.
6. Put the access panel cover back in place. Slip the square cover over the terminal block and re-tighten the two screws holding it in
place.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.