Tech Tips

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

How to Replace a Faulty Gas Burner Valve Assembly in a LG Dryer

If clothes are still wet after completing the dry cycle in LG dryer model DLG2602R, it is likely due to lack of heat. This is a common dryer issue that could be caused by numerous possible malfunctions.

Once determining there are no issues with the high limit thermostat, flame sensor, thermistor and ignitor, consider examining the gas burner valve assembly, which supplies gas to the dryer burner. A malfunctioning valve assembly won’t administer gas, which means the dryer won’t heat.

Before starting any dryer repairs, unplug it from the wall and turn off the gas supply valve. Never attempt a repair without wearing proper safety gear, such as work gloves and goggles. As with all technically difficult and potentially dangerous repair, this repair is best left to a
specialist.

Steps to Replacing Gas Burner Valve Assembly

1. Pull LG dryer forward and away from laundry room wall. On the back of the appliance, unthread screws that secure the top panel to  dryer. Once screws are out, pull panel toward you, and lift it up and off dryer.
2. Now, disassemble the control panel. (Before disconnecting wires, it’s a good idea to take a photo of all wire connections to assist in easily reconnecting them during reassembly.) Start detaching the wire harnesses from the back of the board. Once all wires are disconnected, take out the screws that hold the control board console to the dryer, and then pull console off front of dryer.
3. With control board removed, disconnect the door switch located near the top center of the door frame. Next, open dryer door and
   unthread screws that hold front panel to lint screen housing. Once the screws are out, close the door and unthread screws at the top of the front panel. Then, carefully tilt front panel backward, and pull it up and off dryer.
4. Now, remove control panel bracket off the dryer. First, locate dryer light bulb and disconnect wire harness running to it. Next, locate two wiring retaining clips on the back of the bracket. Take out the wires being held in the retaining clips. Then, remove screws holding the control panel bracket to the front of dryer, and pull bracket off dryer.
5. Near the bottom of dryer, disconnect wire harness to the moisture sensor. Once the wires are separated, unthread screws that
   secure bulkhead to dryer and carefully lift off.
6. Reach in between dryer floor and dryer drum to take drive belt off idler pulley and drive motor pulley.
7. Grab drive belt on top of dryer drum and use to help guide drum out of dryer cabinet.
8. With drum removed, locate gas burner valve assembly in the cabinet’s lower right hand corner. Disconnect wire harnesses running to valve assembly terminals. With a Phillips screwdriver, unthread screws that secure gas line to burner valve. Once screws are loose, carefully pull gas line off burner valve. Next, take out screws holding valve assembly to mounting bracket, and then take gas burner valve off mounting bracket and out of dryer cabinet.
9. Before installing new valve, take the orifice off the old gas burner valve and place on new component. Once orifice is securely
   attached to the new gas burner valve assembly, proceed with installation process.
10. Place gas burner valve assembly on mounting bracket, ensuring screw holes are lined up on bracket with screw holes on the valve
    assembly. Then, replace screws used to secure gas burner valve to mounting bracket. Next, align gas supply tube with burner valve, and insert tube into the valve. Once tube and valve are connected, rethread screws taken out earlier to secure the tube to the valve. To complete installation, reconnect gas burner wire harnesses to valve terminals.
11. Before putting dryer back together, take a moment to check for any gas leaks. To do so, fill a spray bottle with soapy water, and turn  gas supply valve back on. Then, spray gas burner valve with soapy water. If any bubbles form, a gas leak is present, meaning the connection is not tight enough. At this point, turn off dryer’s gas supply, and try tightening the tube and valve coupling. Once you’ve adjusted the union, turn gas back on, and run gas leak test again. If no bubbles appear, the gas leak should no longer be an issue. If bubbles are still forming, DIY consumers should contact a dryer repair technician to further inspect.
12. After testing for leaks and none are found, turn off gas running to the dryer, and start reassembling the dryer. Pick up dryer drum and carefully guide it into the dryer cabinet, ensuring the drum back sits on the drum rollers. Then, reach in between the drum and dryer floor to rethread drive belt on idler pulley and drive motor pulley. Make sure belt is installed in zigzag formation.
13. Retrieve dryer bulkhead, and align with front of dryer. Then, secure part with screws taken out earlier. With bulkhead in place,
    reconnect moisture sensor wire harness, and light bulb wire harness.
14. Now, reattach control board bracket. Once bracket is in place, pull door switch wire harness to front of dryer through one of the
    openings on the bracket. Then, snap wire into retaining clips on back of the bracket.
15. Grab dryer front panel and line up with the dryer front. Before laying panel flush, reconnect door switch harness to door switch, and
    finish installing front panel. After adding screws to secure panel, open dryer door, and rethread screws that connect front panel to lint screen housing.
16. Snap control panel back on dryer, and reattach screws removed earlier. Finish installing control panel by reconnecting wire harnesses that run to the panel back.
17. Finally, reinstall the dryer’s top panel, plug in the dryer and turn on gas supply valve.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

One of the most important parts of a washing machine is the circulation pump motor. When this part isn’t operating correctly, water isn’t circulating and clothes come out of the wash and rinse cycles still dirty. To replace this part,  order part #EAU61383503.

Following are the installation instructions:
1. Unplug washer and turn off the two water connections.
Please note the first step to any repair is unplugging the appliance. This is especially important when you need to disassemble the machine to reach interior parts. Also, turn off water connections to minimize the risk of a water leak, and pull the appliance away from the wall.

Depending on available space, you may also want to disconnect the water lines and pull the drain line connection out of the wall. During this repair, the machine must be tilted back to reach the circulation pump motor.

2. Disassemble machine to remove front access panel.
Locate pump filter in bottom left corner of machine. Remove door by opening and popping hinges free. Pull black hose out of clip and then remove hose cap. There may be water, so have a towel handy. Next, remove screw that secures pump filter housing in place. Remove housing, then loosen screw beneath that secures front panel to machine frame. Remove the outer boot seal.

Open door, and pry out wire clamp.  Pull outer edge of seal out from edge of front panel. Loosen screw securing door latch mechanism to right side, and then reach past seal around back of front panel to pull mechanism inside machine and out of the way. Then, close door and remove top access panel. At rear of the machine, remove two screws holding top panel to rear brackets. Slide top panel back, lift up and set aside.

Next, remove dispenser drawer at top left corner of control panel. You may have to reach in to depress back tab. Then, remove screw holding housing in place and push inside away from the front panel.

Remove control panel by taking out screw located at right interior side of control panel. Loosen ties holding lengths of wires flush and together against control panel. Unplug the three wire harnesses.

Next, peel the control panel away from front panel starting at top right corner. Once top is loose, tilt it forward to carefully pull wires out of cutout, and set aside. Lean against door and front access panel to hold in place. Then, remove screws along top of front access panel where control panel used to be. Tilt panel forward, lift free of bottom groove, and set aside.

3. Remove existing circulation pump motor.
Locate circulation pump motor in bottom left corner to right of green and cream hoses. Before removing parts, set a box behind the washer and tilt machine back at 45-degree angle for easier access to parts. Don’t pinch hoses and drain lines on the back.

Next, remove two wire harnesses from assembly. Also, remove retaining clip from assembly. Remove three screws that hold pump motor up against housing. The whole part should now come out. Be sure to take a picture of the screws and wires to have a helpful guide when realigning during reassembly.

4. Install new circulation pump motor.
Remove protective shield from part and snap into place around new circulation pump motor. Orient new pump motor so seal fits into housing. Press into place and re-secure all three screws. Next, reattach black and blue wires according to the picture (with black wire on bottom or right port and blue wire on top or left port) and ensure excess lengths of wires are securely held in place in retaining clip.

5. Reassemble washer.
First, pull washer back into standing position so it’s upright. Next, reattach front panel by setting on bottom groove. Tilt it flush with panel front, and lean against it to hold in place while securing top in place with screws.

Now reattach control panel. Set bottom edge against frame and slide wires through the cutout. Tilt panel up flush against frame and snap locking tabs shut. Tighten screw in top right corner inside machine. Then, reattach two wire harnesses on interior sides of machine. Then, slip wires against control panel back and tighten ties to secure wires.

Next, push  dispenser housing back into position in  front opening and secure in place with the two screws. Push drawer back into position and close it.

Set top panel on top of machine, but leave an inch or so hanging over back edge. Slide along rails so it snaps into position under front edge of control panel. Retighten the two screws on back bracket. At front of the machine, push door switch assembly back through cutout on right side of door opening and secure mechanism with the two screws.

Pull seal back into place around the opening. Press edges into groove and run your hand along entire circumference to check for gaps or loose sections. It should snap into place along the lip. Next, install wire clamp into the groove. Orient spring at the bottom and work counterclockwise from there to press into the groove. Once it’s too tight to pull into position by hand, use pliers to stretch the spring and push the extended wire into place around remainder of the circle. Tug on the seal to make sure it’s secure. The clamp and spring should note be visible.

Shut the door and reattach screw in the filter pump cutout to hold everything in place. Then, replace housing and attach with second screw. Reattach drain hose lock to black hose and fold hose back up into retaining clip. Reattach door by snapping hose into position.

Reconnect water lines by retightening them to inlets on the back of the machine and reinsert drain hose to wall connection. Turn on the two water connections, push the washer back into position, and plug washer back in.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When a leak occurs inside a Whirlpool refrigerator, the water tank and filter head assembly could be at fault. This is the part that connects the water supply line behind the refrigerator to the filter and then to the inlet valve. In an area with hard water, buildup can clog or crack through the tubing. Following are steps to replacing the assembly with part #WP12956202.

1. Unplug refrigerator and turn off water supply
Always be sure to unplug an appliance before starting a repair. Also, because this repair involves replacing part of the water system, turn off the water supply at the local shut-off valve behind the refrigerator. The part being replaced connects directly to the supply line, so disconnect the supply line from the water inlet valve at the base of the refrigerator while you’re behind the appliance.

2. Dismantle refrigerator interior
As the assembly is mostly positioned inside the refrigerator, dismantle some of the inner paneling. To get started, open the doors and remove the right side shelving. (Just pull up to remove the
hooks from the rear brackets and slide them out.)

Next, locate the water filter cover at the top of the refrigerator. Press down the tab to open the covers. Turn the filter counterclockwise and fully remove it. Press the back of the cover panel free of the hinge pin, pull out the whole cover panel and set aside.

Remove the interior access panel in the middle of the right back paneling inside the refrigerator. (This is the panel with the four small holes around the perimeter.) To remove it, insert a flathead screwdriver into each of the holes to depress the locking tabs. For the top two holes, press in toward the opposite hole. For the two lower holes, press the screwdriver down to disengage the tabs. Tilt the panel down and wiggle the bottom free from its mounting tabs and set the panel aside.

Then, remove the upper access panel by inserting the screwdriver into the central hole along the bottom and disengaging the locking tab by pushing it up. Pull the panel out and set aside. The water tank at the back of the refrigerator’s interior is now accessible, as well as the filter head running up the back into the ceiling.

3. Remove old water tank and filter head
The water tank may still contain water. Before removing the old parts, place a towel at the bottom of the refrigerator to catch any leaks.

First, loosen the housing that holds the filter head at the ceiling. Do this by prying open the mounting tabs toward the front of the housing and then rocking the back of the housing free until the housing is supported only by the lines running up to the filter head.

Next, press down the tabs at the top of the blue water inlet valve so you can pull the small tube free from the top. Once it’s free, you can remove the transparent support housing around the tube. Also, pull the water line to the left out of the mounting tabs. Completely separate the housing bracket from around the filter head and set  aside.

Move to the rear of the refrigerator and locate the water inlet tube that was disconnected at the start of the repair. Loosen the screw that holds the tube in place. Push it down and remove the plastic retaining clip from around the tube. Then, remove all the screws holding the lower rear access panel in place. Set the panel aside.

Return to the front of the refrigerator. Start removing the columns of the water tank from the retainer clips. Once they’re all down, carefully pull the water inlet tube into the body of the refrigerator.

4. Install new water tank and filter head
Push inlet tube into the hole at the bottom of the refrigerator. Feed as much of the length through the hole as possible. Next, align the new water tank in the back of the refrigerator so the inlet tube is to the right.

Press the columns of the water tank into the retaining clips until they click and engage. This may have to be done one column at a time to make sure everything fits properly. Return to the rear of the refrigerator. Remove  protective cover at the end of the new inlet tube. Place the old plastic retainer clip on the new tube.

Reattach the rear access panel. Slip the water inlet tube through the bottom cutout and the power cord through the top cutout so nothing gets pinched. Then secure the panel with the screws around the perimeter. Next, attach the water inlet’s retaining clip to the middle of the panel and connect the inlet tube to the water supply line.

Return to the front of the refrigerator. Now install the new filter head attached to the water tank. Take the transport tube support from the old assembly and attach it to the filter head’s inlet tube. Also, attach the filter
housing to the filter head. It should snap into place around the arms at the top of the filter head.

Next, reattach the water tube to the inlet valve. Pry the blue valve slightly forward to make more room. Then, push the tube firmly into the valve. It should go all the way in until reaching the wider portion of the tube. Push  valve back into place.

Fit the longer water line into the groove along the left side of the cavity. Once the tubes are in place, attach the new filter head to the top of the refrigerator. Line up the back of the filter head assembly into the rear of the cavity and then press the cylindrical housing into place. All of the locking tabs should be heard to engage.

5. Reassemble the refrigerator interior.
Start by reattaching the upper inner access panel. Hook the top of the panel over the arms near the filter head assembly. Then, swing the panel until it is flush with the back of the refrigerator. Press firmly into place.

Next, install the lower cover. Slip the bottom of the panel into the groove, and then press the rest of the panel flush with the back of the refrigerator until the locking tabs engage.

Then, install the water filter housing cover: there is a hinge pin on either side of the filter head housing. Slide the matching hole of the hinge at the back of the water filter cover over one arm. Then slightly stretch the other side of the cover to reach around and grab the hinge arm on the other side. Take care not to crack the plastic. Before reattaching the water filter, twist and remove the bypass cap inside the filter head. Twist the water filter into the new filter head clockwise. Then, snap the water filter cover shut. Reinstall the shelves, shut the doors, and
plug in the refrigerator. Be sure to also turn back on the water supply.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip!