Tech Tips

15 Feb

Whirlpool Duet Washer Error Codes

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Whirlpool Duet washers are some of the best washing machines on the market, but that doesn’t mean they are immune to breaking down from time to time. When they do break down, the inbuilt diagnostic system automatically determines what’s wrong with the appliance and displays an error code.

This post covers all the major Whirlpool Duet washer error codes and provides some tips for how to resolve their corresponding issues.

This guide covers the following Whirlpool Duet models:

WFW70HE
WFW80HE
WFW81HE
WFW94HE
WFW95HE
WFW96HE
WFW97HE
WFW8640
WFW86HE
WFW8740
WFW87HE
WFW88HE

Whirlpool error code: SUDS

The SUDS error code indicates the Duet has too many soap suds in the washer drum. This is usually caused by not using high-efficiency (HE) washing detergent or using too much detergent. In rare cases, it’s the result of a faulty drain pump or pressure sensor. To remove the code, drain the washer, then turn it on to a new cycle.

Whirlpool error code: F0E1

This code means the washer has detected laundry in the machine during a cleaning cycle. Remove the laundry, and the code should disappear.

Whirlpool error code: F1E1

This code means there is a main control fault. To remove the code, reset the washer by turning it off and on. If that doesn’t work, put the washer through a diagnostic test to determine the problem.

Whirlpool error code: F1E2

This error code indicates a motor control fault. The motor control board in the washer has tried to reset but hasn’t done so successfully. This means the motor control board will likely need to be replaced.

Whirlpool error code: F2E3

This error code indicates a cycle fault. This doesn’t happen often but when it does, run the washer through a user interface test and check all the connections to the main control board. If any of the connections are faulty, they’ll need to be replaced.

Whirlpool error code: F3E1

This error code means there is a pressure switch/sensor fault. To fix this error, check the pressure sensing hose for blockages or kinks. If it’s blocked in any way, remove the blockage and the error code should disappear. If the hose is okay, test the pressure sensor.

Whirlpool error code: F3E2

This error code indicates a temperature sensor fault. This occurs when the sensor cannot determine whether the water temperature in the washer is out of the required range. To fix the error, check the wire connections between the control board and the temperature sensor. If they have become disconnected or faulty, repair or replace them.

Whirlpool error code: F5E1

This error code means the door switch may be faulty. To fix this problem, test the door switch. If it’s just stuck in the wrong position, try jostling it. If it’s faulty, replace it.

Whirlpool error code: F5E2

This error code indicates a door lock fault. To fix this error, check the tab on the washing machine door that goes into the door lock to ensure it’s not defective. If it is, replace it; otherwise, check the door lock with a multimeter.

Whirlpool error code: F5E3

This code means the washer door is unable to unlock. Check that the lock tab on the washer door isn’t broken or defective. If the tab is okay, the door lock should be checked with a multimeter.

Whirlpool error code: F6E2

This error code means there is a communication fault between the main control board and the washer motor. To solve this problem, check all the wiring between the two components. Repair or replace any faulty wiring. If no obvious damage can be found, use a multimeter to test the connections.

Whirlpool error codes: F6E2 and F6E3

This error code indicates a communication fault between the main control board and the user interface. To solve this problem, check all the wiring between the two components and repair or replace any faulty wiring found. If no obvious damage can be found, use a multimeter to test the connections.

Whirlpool error code: F7E2

This code indicates a problem with the motor or the motor control board. To fix this problem, start by trying to rotate the drum manually. If the drum doesn’t rotate freely, inspect the motor and test it with a multimeter.

Whirlpool error code: F8E0

This code indicates a problem with the steam valve (this code is only applicable for steam washer models). To solve the issue, make sure water can get into the steam valve. If water cannot reach the valve, check for blockages and remove.

Whirlpool error code: F8E1

This code means the washer isn’t able to fill with enough water. To solve the problem, make sure the water taps are turned on and that the drain hose is properly connected to the washer. If those two components are okay, check the water inlet valve and replace if faulty.

Whirlpool error code: F8E2

This code indicates a faulty dispenser motor. To fix the problem, run the Duet washer through a quick diagnostic test. This will determine if the dispenser system is faulty.

Whirlpool error code: F8E3

This error code indicates an overflow fault, which means too much water is entering the washer. This problem is usually caused by a faulty water inlet valve, drain pump or pressure sensor. To fix the problem, check all of those components and replace if found to be defective.

Whirlpool error code: F8E4

This error code indicates a flow meter fault, meaning the meter cannot detect whether water is coming into the washer. To fix, make sure the water supply is turned on and the water hoses aren’t blocked. If the flow meter isn’t working properly, replace it.

Whirlpool error code: F9E1

This error code means there is a problem with the washing machine’s drainage system. To resolve, ensure the drain hose is connected correctly and is not blocked. If the drain hose is okay, the drain pump and drain filter need to be checked.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.

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15 Feb

CE Tech Tips — February 2022

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

LG TV, 60PK200
Reason for Service: Set powers up then shuts down in a couple of seconds.
Solution: Check R927, R928 & R929 in power supply. All are 10 ohm/5W.

Panasonic TV, TH42PX80U
Reason for Service: 10 blink error as soon as set plugged in. Won’t start.
Solution: Replaced power supply, P Board.

 RCA TV, G36710, (ATC113CB1)
Reason for Service: Top 2/3 of screen was black; bottom 1/3 was okay.
Solution: Replaced the following: Vert IC, DF01 and CF05.

Samsung TV, LN55B650T1F
Reason for Service: No backlight.
Solution: Found C1804 in PS bad, replacing it fixed set.

Samsung TV, LN26B460B2D
Reason for Service: Dead set, but red LED is on.
Solution: Found bad filter cap, C849; replacing it fixed set. 2200uF/16V.

Samsung TV, UN60EH6003
Reason for Service: Video goes to black after set on for few minutes. Audio and BLs okay.
Solution: Found two bad caps on TCon board. C7114 and C7122.

Sony TV, KP53HS30
Reason for Service: Set had no video or OSD, audio okay.
Solution: Replaced B module.

Westinghouse TV, VR5585DFZ
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replaced bad U6 regulator on main board.

Zenith TV, P42W46X
Reason for Service: Weak video and grainy picture. Can be intermittent.
Solution: Replaced 33uF caps near transformer left scan module.

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04 Jan

CE Tech Tips — January 2022

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 60V500A
Reason for Service: Sound distortion (rattling sound) on speaker with action movie and bass set to max.
Solution: Replace side protector between woofer and power supply with new part MN06392. 

Samsung TV, LN46A530P1F
Reason for Service: No backlight, power supply comes up with all voltages.
Solution: Replaced main board to fix.

Samsung TV, UN55C6900VFXZA
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replaced 2 components in power supply. ICB801 and ZDB802.

Samsung TV, UN40F6300
Reason for Service: Dead set, power LED 2 blink error.
Solution: Found bad SM cap, RS802, replacing fixed set.

Sanyo TV, DP42841
Reason for Service: Audio cuts out at high volume and crackles sometimes.
Solution: Replaced Audio IC LV4906.  

Zenith TV, P42W46X
Reason for Service: Black screen, slowly gets better the longer set is on.
Solution: Found C61 in power supply bad. 47uF/50V.

Zenith TV, Z50PG10UA
Reason for Service: No video or OSD, screen lights up.
Solution: Replacing upper buffer fixed this set.

 

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09 Dec

Get Rid of Washer Bad Smell

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

What most people describe as a rotten egg smell is caused by hydrogen sulfide gas. This gas is commonly found in sewers and is caused by bacteria metabolism.

If the smell of hydrogen sulfide is coming from the washing machine, the likely culprit is a buildup of mold, grime, mildew or old soap within the washing machine or a component like the door gasket. Thankfully, getting rid of this awful smell is incredibly easy since most of the time a good, thorough cleaning is all that’s needed.

Following are common causes of washer smells and fixes. Please note that the first two refer to front-loader washing machines; for top-loader washing machines, skip to #3.

#1 – Something Stuck in Door Seal (Front Loader Only)

Front-loader washing machines have a large rubber door seal (sometimes called a bellow or gasket) that goes around the inside of the door. The seal is intended to prevent water from spilling out of the washing machine during a cycle.

Sometimes a small piece of clothing, like a sock, can get stuck inside the gasket, and over time it will get covered in mildew. If left for a long time, this can start to smell like rotten eggs.

To make sure the door seal doesn’t have anything stuck in it, you simply need to:

  1. Pull door seal back, look inside for any loose clothing items and remove.
  2. Thoroughly clean door gasket with a sponge and hot, soapy water.
  3. After cleaning, leave the door open to dry and air out.

Cleaning Tip: Manufacturers recommend users keep the door open on front-loader washing machines after completing cycles to enable the unit to dry out. This can help prevent mildew and mold from developing.

#2 – Clogged Drain Plug or Pump (Front Loader only)

Another possible cause of smell is a clogged drain plug. In most models, there is a drain plug at the bottom of the washing machine on either the front, sides, or back of the appliance.

To check the drain plug and filter:

  1. Locate drain plug and remove cover plate if one is there.
  2. After accessing drain plug, turn cap off. Some water might leak out, so have a towel nearby.
  3. Once plug is removed, reach in and remove drain filter.
  4. Clean areas around drain plug and filter with hot soapy water.
  5. Pour a glass of hot water mixed with a couple drops of white vinegar into the washing machine drum; the water should then drain out through the hose, bringing out any grime in the hose.
  6. Once these components have been cleaned, reinstall them in the unit. If the rotten egg smell is still apparent, run the machine on a cleaning cycle and check the sewer (see reason 4 below).

#3 – Washing Machine is Dirty (Top Loader)

The best way to remove smell from a washer is to give it a good clean. This helps prevent mold, grime and mildew from building up, resulting in a terrible smell.

How to clean a washing machine:

  1. Open washing machine door.
  2. Set washer to hottest setting and largest load capacity.
  3. Once water starts to fill up, add one quart of bleach (about 4 cups).
  4. Once washer is full of water, close lid and set it to a long spin cycle. When the cycle ends, leave the washing machine for about one hour before turning back on and completing a standard wash cycle.
  5. When the wash cycle ends, turn it to the hottest setting and largest capacity again. When it’s filling up, add 3 cups of white vinegar and a ½ cup of baking soda.
  6. When the washer is full, close lid and turn set to a long spin cycle again. When the spin cycle ends, open lid and wipe out washing machine with a clean cloth.
  7. Leave the washing machine lid open, and let it dry out for a couple of hours before using it again. If your washing machine still smells bad, try checking the sewer (#4).

Reason 4 – Sewer Clogged

If cleaning did not rid the washer of the rotten egg smell, it’s possible the sewer or drain is clogged. When this happens, the smell can go through the drain hose and into the machine.

Here’s how to solve this problem:

  1. Locate where the drain hose is connected – most likely it’s connected to a standpipe connected to sink.
  2. Remove hose from standpipe, and see if a smell is coming from it.
  3. If it’s smelly, start by giving the whole area around the standpipe a good clean with hot, soapy water.
  4. The smell could also be due to a faulty p-trap allowing sewer gas to come up through the drain hose and into the washing machine. To solve this problem, pour a bucket of hot, soapy water down the standpipe. If the smell goes away, the p-trap was the source. Sometimes after pouring hot water down the drain, the p-trap will start working again, and sometimes it will need to be replaced. If the smell comes back, a plumber may need to replace the p-trap.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.

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23 Nov

Dishwasher Troubleshooting

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

Dishwashers are one of the hardest working appliances in the kitchen. When they break down, it’s beyond annoying — who wants to wash dishes by hand?

One of the most common problems with dishwashers is emitting strange loud buzzing noises. This is a clear sign something is wrong and needs to be fixed. It’s very unlikely the problem will just miraculously go away on its own.

There are a few possible causes of buzzing noises, including dishes not stacked properly, machine not sitting level on the ground, pump intake is defective or pump seals are dry. Sometimes, it’s simply a case of general wear and tear, especially if the unit is old. Here are some things to try to stop the sounds:

Ensure Dishes Stacked Properly

The most common cause of a dishwasher buzzing noise is just that dishes aren’t stacked properly. When this happens – especially with plastic cups and containers – they can rub up against another dish and cause a noise. Properly load the unit to see if the noise stops.

Check If Dishwasher Level

It’s possible that the unit is not sitting level on the floor or it’s rubbing against its cabinet or the kitchen bench. Here’s how to check that the dishwasher is level:

  1. Use a bubble level to check balance.
  2. If it’s not properly leveled, adjust the dishwasher legs until it is level.
  3. If it’s level, ensure dishwasher isn’t moving against the bench at the top or sides. If it is, lower the level so there’s a clear gap between the top of the dishwasher and the bench.
  4. If the level is changed, turn on dishwasher ensure the problem has been solved.

Check Pump Intake

The next component to check is the dishwasher’s pump intake, which catches large food particles and other pieces of debris to prevent the unit from getting clogged. Sometimes a small piece of glass or plastic can get stuck in the pump intake, which causes a buzzing noise. When this happens, remove the debris and the noise should stop.

Here’s how to check the pump intake:

  1. Locate the pump intake and open.
  2. Clean it out thoroughly.
  3. Plug back in dishwasher, turn on to a cycle, and see if the noise has stopped.

Dry Pump Seals

If the dishwasher is new or hasn’t been used for awhile, the pump seals can sometimes become dry, causing strange noises when it’s running through a cycle. This is because water usually lubricates the seals, which won’t happen when it’s not in frequent use.

To fix this problem, you need to:

  1. Locate pump seals.
  2. Pour about 1 quart of water into the bottom of the dishwasher.
  3. Turn dishwasher on to a cycle, and check if the problem has been solved.

Dishwasher Still Making Buzzing Noise?

If none of these actions solves the issue, it may just be normal wear and tear that won’t be able to be fixed easily. It may be time to replace the unit if the buzzing sound is unbearable.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.

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22 Nov

CE Tech Tips — December 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Hitachi TV, 60V500A
Reason for Service: Sound distortion (rattling sound) on speaker with action movie and bass set to max.
Solution: Replace side protector between woofer and power supply with new part MN06392. 

Samsung TV, LN46A530P1F
Reason for Service: No backlight, power supply comes up with all voltages.
Solution: Replaced main board to fix.

Samsung TV, UN55C6900VFXZA
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replaced 2 components in power supply. ICB801 and ZDB802.

Samsung TV, UN40F6300
Reason for Service: Dead set, power LED 2 blink error.
Solution: Found bad SM cap, RS802, replacing fixed set.

Sanyo TV, DP42841
Reason for Service: Audio cuts out at high volume and crackles sometimes.
Solution: Replaced Audio IC LV4906.  

Zenith TV, P42W46X
Reason for Service: Black screen, slowly gets better the longer set is on.
Solution: Found C61 in power supply bad. 47uF/50V.

Zenith TV, Z50PG10UA
Reason for Service: No video or OSD, screen lights up.
Solution: Replacing upper buffer fixed this set.

 

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19 Oct

LG Dryer Error Codes D80, D90, D95

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

LG dryers are high-quality appliances with industry-leading safety features. The main safety feature they have is the ability to display specific error codes when something is wrong with the dryer or the ventilation system.

This article covers the three most common LG dryer error codes D80, D90 and D95 for the following models:

DLE0442W

DLE2701V
DLE3777W
DLEX2801L
DLEX2801R
DLEX2801W
DLEX2901V
DLEX3001P
DLEX3001W
DLEX3360R

DLEX3360W

DLEX3360V
DLEX3470V
DLEX3470W
DLEX3550V
DLEX3550W
DLG5932S
DLG5988B
DLG5988S
DLG5988SM

Error Codes D80, D90 and D95 Explained

If the control panel displays these error codes, the airflow through the ventilation system has been obstructed by a buildup of lint. The higher the number after the “D,” the greater the obstruction. For example, D90 means there is 90% ventilation blockage, indicating the air exhaust is not able to push enough air out from the dryer.

When these error codes appear, the dryer will turn off to avoid overheating. Dealing with these error codes properly is very important as one of the most common causes of house fires in the U.S. is overheating dryers.

How to Fix Ventilation Error Codes 

  1. Thoroughly clean/remove all lint from filter.
  2. Disconnect exhaust hose at back of dryer and check to see if it is blocked. Remove any debris.
  3. Check wall duct for blockages and remove.
  4. Check outside vent for any blockages and remove.
  5. At this point, the error code should disappear. If need be, turn dryer off and on to remove error code.

 

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.

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19 Oct

CE Tech Tips — October 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

 

Coby TV, TFTV3227

Reason for Service: Loses video intermittently
Solution: We found a ground wire that was supposed to be screwed to the metal frame, had no screw.
Replacing the screw fixed the set.

LG TV, 50PC5D
Reason for Service: The screen had many red horizontal lines across the top part of it.
Solution: Replacing the upper buffer restored a good picture.

LG TV, 32LC7D
Reason for Service: Left side of the screen it too dark.
Solution: Found two bad caps on the inverter board, C215 and C218, 270uF/10V.

Samsung TV, LN-S2641
Reason for Service: Set won’t start.
Solution: Replacing the main board fixed this set.

Samsung TV, LN26A450C1DXZA

Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Found and replaced bad regulator on main Board, IC1001. Check power supply for domed caps also.

Sharp TV, LC-52E77EU
Reason for Service: Set won’t start, power light blinking.
Solution: Replacing main board fixed the set.

Sony TV, KDL55W802A
Reason for Service: Set won’t start, 2 blink error.
Solution: Found and replaced 2 bad transistors in the power supply, Q6502 and Q6503. In addition, R6547 was bad, 0.1ohm/5W.

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22 Sep

CE Tech Tips — September 2021

**NOTICE**
Due to the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information.

Emerson TV, LC320EM2A
Reason for Service: Powers on with high pitched squeal
and blinking power light.
Solution: Found shorted diode in power supply. D633, 27V/1W. 

Insignia TV, NS-LCD47HD-09
Reason for Service: No video, backlights okay.
Solution: Replacing U507 on main board fixed set.
(was running very hot)

Panasonic TV, TH42PZ700U
Reason for Service: Dead, seven blink error.
Solution: On SC module look for row of SM FETs.
Check for shorts by lifting on leg of each. Q641-Q654

Samsung TV, UN55ES6100
Reason for Service: Set won’t connect to Internet.
Solution: Replacing the Wi-Fi module fixed set.

Samsung TV, LN55C750R2F
Reason for Service: Set intermittently had video, then went out all together.
Solution: Before replacing T-Con or main, sub crystal X11 from scrap set.  If no good, replace T-Con.

Samsung TV, PCL542R
Reason for Service: Dead set.
Solution: Replaced IC801, IC802 and IC806.

 Sharp TV, LC52D64U
Reason for Service: Dead set. F7000 blown.
Solution: Replaced Q7805, Q7808 and fuse to fix set.

 Sony TV, KV40XBR800
Reason for Service: Shuts down with 6 blink error.
Solution: Found and replaced bad cap C6556, 33uF/160V.

 

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27 Aug

LG Washing Machine UE Error Code

**NOTICE**
Due the danger and complexity of electronic equipment repair, the following technical tip is intended for professional reference only. Please refer to manufacturer’s recommendations as Encompass does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability or safety of this information. 

When an LG washing machine displays a UE error code, it means the unit’s control board has detected an unbalanced load. This prevents the washer from spinning until the load is either balanced or a faulty component is repaired.

Best case, something simple is causing the problem and can be fix quickly. Below are steps to take to determine whether this will be an easy or more complicated repair. This guidance applies to the following LG models:

RLM20K WD-10271
BD WD-11275
BD WD-13276
BDM WD-90282
BD WM2233
HW WM2277
HS WM2301
HR WM2301
HW WM2455
HG WM2455HW
WM2455HW/00
WM2487HRMA/00
WM2487HWMA/00
WM2496HSM
WM2496HWM/00
WM2688HNM
WM2688HWMA/00
WM3070HWA
WM3470HVA
WM3470HWA

Step One – Try Balancing Load

The first step is to just try balancing the washer load or evening out the weight of the laundry. See if there are tangled sheets or other large and heavy items that may be shifted to one side or the other. If it’s a small load, try adding more items to help better distribute weight. After trying to rebalance, start the washer again to see if the error code has disappeared.

Step Two – Check Washer Legs

Next, check the washer’s leveling legs. The easiest way to determine if the washer is sitting level is to use a bubble level device. Place the device on top of the washer; if it’s not level, adjust the legs appropriately. This can usually be done by rotating the legs without having to lift the washer. Also check to ensure the legs are firmly on the ground with nothing beneath them. Once the legs are adjusted, check again to see if the error code is still showing.

Step Three – Reset Washer

If the previous steps don’t help, try resetting the washer to see if the error code disappears. Just turn off the power to the washing machine for a couple of minutes and then turn it back on again. If the error code is still displayed, move on to step four.

Step Four – Check Rotor Mounting Nut

If the basic fixes haven’t worked, it’s time to check some of the washer’s internal components to see if they are faulty. When dealing with the guts of a washing machine, it’s best to enlist an experienced appliance repair professional due to the inherent risk.

First, check the rotor mounting nut, which helps secure the rotor assembly over the stator. Here’s how to check this component:

  1. Turn off power to washing machine.
  2. Remove side panels to access stator assembly.
  3. Locate stator assembly (check service manual, if necessary).
  4. Ensure nut is tightly secured and adjust if not.
  5. While checking mounting nut, check mounting bolts securing stator and tighten if needed.
  6. Turn power on and see if problem has been solved; if not, proceed to next step.

Step Five – Check Suspension Rods

If the unit is top loading, check the suspension rods; continue to the next step if the unit is front loading.

Suspension rods can wear out, causing a washing machine to vibrate and make loud noises. Over time, this can lead to unbalancing and the UE error code.

Here’s how to check the suspension rods:

  1. Ensure power is off.
  2. Remove washer panels to access suspension rods.
  3. Locate rods (consult service manual if necessary).
  4. Once located, check rods for any signs of wear and tear or any type of faultiness.
  5. If rods are faulty, replace them and check error code again. If still displaying, move to next step.

Step Six – Check Shock Absorbers

If the washer is front loading, check the shock absorbers. Like suspension rods, they can sometimes wear out, causing vibration, loud noises and/or unbalancing, which triggers the UE error code.

Here’s how to check shock absorbers:

  1. Turn off power.
  2. Remove washer panels to access shock absorbers.
  3. Locate shock absorbers (consult service manual if necessary). The washer may need to be placed on its side for easier access.
  4. Once located, check shock absorbers for any signs of wear and tear or faultiness.
  5. If they are faulty, replace them and check error code again. If still displaying, go to next step.

Step Seven – Check Hall Sensor

Try checking the hall sensor (sometimes called a rotor position sensor), which monitors the motor operation. When the motor becomes defective, it can trigger incorrect error codes to be displayed.

Here’s how to check the hall sensor:

  1. Turn off power to washer and remove side panels.
  2. Locate the hall sensor (check service manual if necessary).
  3. Once located, use multimeter to test sensor for continuity.
  4. If continuity exists, it is working so move to step eight. If no continuity, sensor must be replaced. Once replaced, check error code.

Step Eight – Replace Control Board

If the error code still displays after trying all previous steps, the final option is to replace the control board. Control boards are difficult to test to find the specific fault, so it’s best to just replace it to see if the problem is resolved. However, this can be an expensive repair, so it might be more economical to buy a new washing machine.

Special thanks to Fred’s Appliance Academy for this helpful tip.

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